Deep, Heavy Shadowbox

[MerpsMom]

I'm going to be framing a number of Western items: horse colllar, saddlebag, lasso, bridles, spurs, probably fringed vest, etc. Nothing must be conservation, it's all decorative.

We're using a Roma moulding for the top of the base box, Roma 68444, 3" antique silver. The box depth must be at least 6" from the front of the backboard to under side of the plexi in order to accommodate the collar.

What do you suggest using to build the base box? Perhaps a 2 x ?. Can I use pine? The designer wants the sides to rather match the antique silver but I've told him that would require "finishing" and I'm not sure he wants me to get into that. Ditto for not using a moulding on the flat to match: talk about $$.! Black and indented would be my preference.

Hanging this will be interesting as well as it's going to be very weighty. A cleat perhaps, or would WallBuddies work?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Cathie

 

[framah]

1x is all you need. Actually, you could use 3/4 birch ply and will have a nice surface for finishing.

.. or how about old barn boards to give them the old west look.

... old barn boards visible on the inside would make it look like the stuff is hanging in the barn.

... and a cleat built into the back would be best for hanging.

 

[GhostFramer]

Sounds like an interesting project. I did one similar. I made the box from a 1x4 and added stained beadboard to the outside of the box to finish it off. It created a barn door kind of look and the finish out was pretty easy to do.

 

[MerpsMom]

I'm trying to figure how to attach securely a 1 X to the back of the 3" top moulding. That doesn't seem secure to me? Am I not seeing this correctly?

I think it's the differences in the widths that is throwing me. Just doesn't seem substantial enough. (the barnwood side is intriguing.

Cathie

 

[framah]

One way is to use screw eyes into the sides and then a regular screw thru the eye into the back of the frame every 4 or 5 inches or so.

A line of glue on the edge of the sides will help also.

 

[Bob Doyle]

I was under the impression you were making a box and dropping a frame over it/ If that's the case angle in the top inch of the 1 X 6 so the top is 3/8". That can be covered with a fillet outside the glass. The sides of the box can be dressed up with the barn board.

 

[MerpsMom]

Bob, what I'm doing is building a basebox and then fitting the top moulding to match up perfectly with the box. The basebox is just an extender of the frame. I'm lining the whole thing with suede.

This method leaves a really bit indent looking at it from the side. I can attach the box to the base of the frame with angle irons if it's that indented.

I was just questioning why I wouldn't want more width to set the decorative frame on. And I hope he just lets me paint the basebox sides: I really don't think this thing needs any more weight. I guess I could use balsa wood as a veneer.

 

[Bob Doyle]

I've always wanted to get a contractor to cut a hole in a wall that I cold then slide a beast like this into! A header board above and below and slide the box into the opening, a 1X4 interior wall should give you 3+ inches of space to tuck the sides of tha frame away into.

My luck there'd be wires and pipes in the cavity

 

[Ron L]

Cathie,
Is using an acrylic box coming out the front of the frame an option?
That would allow the items have a 3D view and the smaller items would not be so deep in the box. Superior Acrylics does a great job building these boxes. However, it would probably bump up the price of the job significantly.

 

[MerpsMom]

That's weird, Ron, because that's one of my favorite presentations. I think Gemini also does that type of thing as well as Superior. When you slide the decorative frame down to the back of the box and to the wall, it looks fabulous and you can see everything..

However......this is a High Colorado type thing and the designer wants it rustic. But, I just might ask him anyway!

Designers can be very interesting to work with.

 

[nave]

Shadowbox

I'd suggest a U.S. made moulding for a U.S. Western artist.

 

[DA]

Use 1 x 8 Pine

I use a tablesaw with dado set of blades. Route out your rabbet, miter, join with brad nailer, finish, use screw eyes to attach frame face. Pre-drill screw holes for D-ring so you don't split wood. Example pictures attached.

 

[Richard Darling]

I make a box out of select pine, or birch if you want something a little nicer. I usually try to spray paint black (flat shows fewer flaws) or stain it. Get a Kreg keyhole jig from your local Ace or True Value. Drill your keyholes on the inside of the box, glue the top edge and screw the frames together.

 

[Baer Charlton]

this is a High Colorado type thing and the designer wants it rustic.

I am totally confused now. You say the designer wants it rustic...
and yet, this is the moulding I get from your numbers

When did late Renaissance Garish become "rustic" in any bodies mind.... when it wasn't in the paragraph with "whorehouse" "flocked red wallpaper" and "cheap floozy perfume" and connected to "the cowboy bar downstairs"?

But hey, I've given up on "designers" as of late. . . when a Craftsman Lodge becomes a "Post Modern Tuscan Villa"

But I'll just stick with the project..... as I go through your list, I figure you will have about 70-80lbs of tack going into a 6'x4' frame. The Roma frame is going to be about 25lbs, and the plex in 1/4" about another 25lbs. The 6" depth in 1x8 ripped and rabbeted for a 3/4" Birch play backer will bring another 70lbs.

So you need to be able to hang 200+ pounds of framing..... so Z-bar or custom wood french cleats.

Attaching the 1x8 to the Roma is a piece of cake with pocket screws every 6" as well as glue. I would run a shallow 1/8" dado into the foot of the frame for the wall to sit in giving the whole a much needed mechanical stability.

Justifying the Kreg kit from Rockler, you can join the walls the same way or miter (good luck). The backer 3/4" Birch (19-ply) plywood, can be secured the same every 6" around the perimeter.

I would then apply strip 1/4" veneers to the outside. Fill and prime to match the smoothness. Paint with Deco Cream and Cracker Barrel acrylic paint to match that easy to match finish on the Roma. (giving the designer what they want.)
The interior wall, I would line with Frenchey Whorehouse red flocked wallpaper mounted to FC and glue to the walls. Same for the backer.

For the cleats, I would rip four cleats about 6" wide from the Birch Ply and screw and glue to the backer but that they stand proud of the sides by only an 1/8" so as not to scrap the wall during installation.

I would bid the "frame" ready to be stuffed at the retail Roma + $350(materials) + 30 hours shop rate. [so for our shop $3,350 before fitting] and that does not include hanging.

Hanging, you will want 1/4" lag bolts in inset pockets for flush mount.... two per stud.