Cutting straight edge 6 inch samples

Uncle Eli

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 2, 2005
Posts
554
Loc
Sunny Malibu CA.
Now I know this may sound like a remidial question for most of you, but for some reason I'm having a brain fart, and can't figure out a way to cut a perfect 6 inch straight edge corner sample (on various width mouldings), like the ones we receive from our vendors. I searched the archives, and wasn't able to come up with anything, Thanks for your help
 
I believe you are referring to CHEVRONs, meaning the end of the samples are parallel to the miters.

We use our radial arm saw with a chevroning jig that allows us to cut off the ends parallel to the miters after the corner sample is joined.

If you can't use a radial saw, then make the cuts on the pieces before joining.

It is difficult to do using a double miter saw unless you turn each piece around and cut it with the rabbet facing the fence. For a single arm saw, for the "left" leg of the sample, make both cuts with the blade on the right side, and for the "right" leg make both cuts with the blade on the left side.

\ \ right leg

/ / left leg
 
Thanks, I know HOW to get a Chevron, what I'm having trouble with is, using a morso (it's all we have) how to know where to set the length guide for the joined edge, before turning it around to cut the outer edge, so that when all is said and done, no matter what width the moulding, the outer edge of the moulding is exactly 6 inches.
 
Mark a spot on the left side back fence that is 6" from the blade. This way no matter what the width of the moulding your samples will be uniform length.
 
Uncle ;
the best suggestion I can give is that the formula for computeing length needed to make a frame has been discussed several times and is the same math needed to do what you are asking.

The typical waste factor or the miter of a given moulding is usually the width of the moulding plus the allowance and any loss due to things like the Kerf of a saw blade.
Therefore it depends on where you want the 6 in. edge of a given moulding to be measured at ( in side or out) If the inside edge ,add twice the width of the leg plus any allowance ( if applicable) and any loss from things like saw blade kerf. If outside do the same.That is of course if you want the Chevrons to end with a normal inside 45 Deg miter.And you do as Rob has told you and turn the leg arond when cutting the opposite mitered edge.

If however you want the miter to be facing out you may need to find a way to measure the furhtest point with some sort squareing stop in relation to your Chopper rail when it is away from the rail.But the biggest problem you probaley will face with a chopper is when you turn the profile there may not be any rabbet supports under the lip which could cause the moulding to crush. So you may have to find a way to shim the lip with something like ice cream sticks or mat fall out pieces .

Of course you could do the same by trial and error by cutting it slightly larger than you know you will need finding the differance and subtracting that from your setting and adjusting it downward till you have the 6 ins. you want.This should work for any profile also.

Or at least that is my shot at the problem.
BUDDY
 
You could also pick up a dirt cheap mitre box rig at any one of a thousand stores. Cheap ones run about $15. Since these are just corner samples and the chevron cut does not need to be very precise this would solve the problem of not having a rabbit support when turned around.
 
Just curious- Why are you cutting your own chevrons when the samples come to you already done?
You should be able to backcut the moulding just fine in a foot chopper. Calculate your waste, cut one rail of moulding to your desired length then turn the rail around and backcut it squarely at the center of the rail. You'll have a chevron sample.
 
Yeah, thw whole process of turning the piece around was a simple concept to handle. Where I was having problems was making them all the same size. Jeff's idea of marking the back of the fence was what I ultimately did, and then extended that line at the proper angle along the base of the cutter to make it easier to see.

Originally posted by beerhere:
Just curious- Why are you cutting your own chevrons when the samples come to you already done?
I started managing this shop a while ago, and the past framers didn't bother to ask for profesional samples from the vendors, and just set the guide to 6 inches, and cut, no matter the width of the moulding. This is one of those January lag time projects, to make the counter area look nicer. Also there are still a few companies out there slinging length that do not provide corner samples with their footage.
 
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