cutting museum glass

[Jeanette]

Is there any difference in cutting CC and Museum glass I should account for when using my Fletcher 3000?

Thanks

 

[Jim Miller]

No difference in cutting.

You can avoid fingerprints by wearing fabric gloves and, as with Conservation Clear, use a slip sheet in your wall cutter or make sure there are no slight burrs on your machine's back-board to scratch the coating.

 

[Barnett]

If you do get smudges or fingerpints on MG I've found using 'Un-Stick' very good in removing them.
Bart

 

[cjmst3k]

Question: Am I the only one who cuts CC and Museum Glass the UV coated side to avoid scratching the coating? I have suede backing on my Fletcher multi cutter but I still want to avoid all potential for scratching.

...and also, is it because I cut it this way that I get those annoying glass slivers under the glass, or does that happen to everyone?

 

[Jim Miller]

Question: Am I the only one who cuts CC and Museum Glass the UV coated side to avoid scratching the coating?

The maker suggests scoring the non-coated side of Conservation Clear, but you can still cut the coated side.

Museum Glass is optically coated on both sides, but has the UV coating on only one side.

...and also, is it because I cut it this way that I get those annoying glass slivers under the glass, or does that happen to everyone?

Those tiny shards are consistent with using too much pressure on your cutting tool. The lightest pressure that will make a clean, continuous score is the best. When your scoring tool skips or no longer rolls smoothly, clean and lubricate it. If that doesn't restore perfect cutting, replace the tool.

Increasing pressure on the cutting tool is generally not a good solution, as it makes less-clean cuts an creates those nasty shards you mentioned -- which, by the way, can also scratch the coatings on the glass.

That said, you probably have to use more pressure to score the glass through the UV coating, which is why they suggest scoring the uncoated side.

 

[Cliff Wilson]

Those tiny shards are consistent with using too much pressure on your cutting tool. The lightest pressure that will make a clean, continuous score is the best. When your scoring tool skips or no longer rolls smoothly, clean and lubricate it. If that doesn't restore perfect cutting, replace the tool.

Increasing pressure on the cutting tool is generally not a good solution, as it makes less-clean cuts an creates those nasty shards you mentioned -- which, by the way, can also scratch the coatings on the glass.

That said, you probably have to use more pressure to score the glass through the UV coating, which is why they suggest scoring the uncoated side.

Jim, even with a very light pressure from the wheel you get glass shards from the coated side. (Happens when I get confused and cut the wrong side.)

Chris, cut the other side, you'll be happier and save some clean up of the shards.

Just be careful. I use the filler sheet from the box behind each glass as I cut. When I snap off a piece big enough to save, I rip the interleaved sheet with it and put it in the rack that way. All my pieces are interleaved like they were in the box.

I've always been leery of the suede suggestion. Afraid it will hold the glass shard cutoffs and cause more damage than it helps.

 

[BatesMotel]

I just use a fresh sheet of mat board behind the glass when I score the museum glass instead of the suede mat board. I agree with wearing gloves to prevent from having to clean the glass but if it does get a mark I use plain Isopropyl alcohol to remove any marks.

 

[Bill Henry-]

Question: Am I the only one who cuts CC and Museum Glass the UV coated side to avoid scratching the coating? I have suede backing on my Fletcher multi cutter but I still want to avoid all potential for scratching.

I do it all the time for the reasons that you describe. It cuts 'jes fine … although the scoring sounds a little odd – kinda deep and mellow .

 

[MabSadie2]

Wow. When I score the wrong side of the glass, it doesn't break cleanly, it swoops off randomly. It's infuriating. None of you have had this problem?

 

[Couture's Gallery]

we use 1 ply slip sheet on the coated face and score the recommended side...no problems with shards or scratching.

 

[Dave]

If you ever do get a shard it is best to wet the glass to remove it. Shards seems to meld right to the glass and will scratch if removed most any other way.

I have noticed that if you cut the wrong side on coated glass you do have more of a tendency to get shards no matter how lightly you score.

I always cut by hand into the frame or on foam core on a flat table. Quicker and easier than using my wall mounted glass cutter.

 

[Cliff Wilson]

Wow. When I score the wrong side of the glass, it doesn't break cleanly, it swoops off randomly. It's infuriating. None of you have had this problem?

I have had this problem with museum, but not so much with cc.

 

[Jim Miller]

Wow. When I score the wrong side of the glass, it doesn't break cleanly, it swoops off randomly.

That may be because the cutting wheel's pressure is not enough to cut through the coating and actually score the glass. I'm not going to suggest you increase your cutter's pressure, though. It is better to cut the correct side of the glass.

You might get a similar result with a skipping or dull cutting wheel, too.

I suggest getting into the habit of looking at the edge of every sheet of glass as you place it in the cutter, like this:
http://www.thegrumble.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6368&d=1270498686

That way you don't need to find the edge-printing or scratch a corner, etc.

 

[CB Art & Framing]

I use a sheet of 2-ply black on the glass cutter. That way you can see if the museum has any scratches or imperfections BEFORE cutting.

 

[neilframer]

I cut all glass freehand on the back of the frame, except metal frames. Those I cut freehand on the fome cor. Less moving and sliding of the glass, no scratching. The proper hand cutter with the correct angle wheel is important. The wrong wheel angle for the glass will spit out glass splinters. Correct wheel angle, no splinters. Unless you have a lot of practice, use the Fletcher 3000 and be gentle.
I wear gloves when cutting and handling museum glass.
If you do see a glass chip or splinter on the coating, pull it off with a piece of masking tape, don't rub.
That way it won't scratch.

 

[GUMBY GCF]

What Jim M. and the rest said..

I always cut by hand into the frame or on foam core on a flat table. Quicker and easier than using my wall mounted glass cutter.

Dave: That and you still ride a horse to work... does not supprise me at all...

 

[neilframer]

I agree with Dave. I can freehand cut three pieces of glass on the backs of the frames in the time it takes someone to cut one piece on the Fletcher and they will fit the frames perfectly with no scratches or chipped corners.

 

[Baer Charlton]

Gumby..... you get the famous line from some great forgotten movie.....

"Laugh it up Chuckles"

Wall cutter you have to sleeve, pad, sheet and what ever else the rigamaroll that has been discussed on this forum through at least 5 treads a year..... $2K plus all the matboards, papers etc and time lost.

Hand cutter, with skill as a REAL framer: $14 for the fancy one.

Neil is slow...... unless he means cut, clean, fit, finish, put away and called those three customers..... then I'm right there with him

We each do things the way we are comfortable doing. But don't make fun of a fellow framer who is using a tool that is over 100 years old, requires more skill, is faster, cleaner and better at making money faster than what you do and cost him $2,000 less to do the same job.....

And the day you want to call me out..... bring your stupid Fletcher 3000, I'll bring my 10 year old Gold Ball, and it will be 10 5x7 ovals in Museum Glass on a table in the middle of the street. If you can't run with the big dawgs, stay nailed to the wall.

 

[neilframer]

"Slow" but accurate! I might take a break to eat a candy bar. No mis-cuts, no breakage. I use a cheap $3.00
Fletcher hand cutter (gold ball) # 01-118.

 

[Baer Charlton]

psst . . . Neil, I used to think they were $3 too...... don't look, we got old. $10

 

[neilframer]

psst . . . Neil, I used to think they were $3 too...... don't look, we got old. $10

$3.00 - $10.00, oh well, time marches on. We're not getting older, things just cost more.

 

[Baer Charlton]

Does that mean my now silver hair will eventually cost enough to turn gold???

 

[Dave]

Giddy Up!!!!

Let's ride ' em Cowboy!

HEE HAW!

 

[coppertop]

I seriously want to watch this done. no smart alec intentions here, but this would be great to watch, I can't believe this can be done. wow:bow:

Gumby..... you get the famous line from some great forgotten movie.....

"Laugh it up Chuckles"

Wall cutter you have to sleeve, pad, sheet and what ever else the rigamaroll that has been discussed on this forum through at least 5 treads a year..... $2K plus all the matboards, papers etc and time lost.

Hand cutter, with skill as a REAL framer: $14 for the fancy one.

Neil is slow...... unless he means cut, clean, fit, finish, put away and called those three customers..... then I'm right there with him

We each do things the way we are comfortable doing. But don't make fun of a fellow framer who is using a tool that is over 100 years old, requires more skill, is faster, cleaner and better at making money faster than what you do and cost him $2,000 less to do the same job.....

And the day you want to call me out..... bring your stupid Fletcher 3000, I'll bring my 10 year old Gold Ball, and it will be 10 5x7 ovals in Museum Glass on a table in the middle of the street. If you can't run with the big dawgs, stay nailed to the wall.

 

[LWells]

This is actually a very good conversation! Hate the SHARDS!!! I have a little brush next to my cutter that I gently wipe the very edge of the cut side as soon as I snap the piece, then if I see more after I put it on the table I use a little masking tape to pick up those pieces.

Fingerprints (or even those lovely little water looking dots) come off easily with the steam from your breath and gentle circular motions with a lint free cloth, like you would do with your eyeglasses.

 

[Rick Granick]

I had to really work to remove some of the "water looking dots" this afternoon when I was framing a delicate little pastel. That was a lot of fun.
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick

One of the best MG-cutting tips I've picked up here is using a sheet of that 2-ply chipboard that Crescent "used to" package along with their suede matboards on the cutter to protect the back of the glass, and wearing Ansell gloves for handling the large lites. Cleaning it usually isn't much of a problem, using a microfiber cloth misted with Sparkle.

 

[Grey Owl]

I seriously want to watch this done. no smart alec intentions here, but this would be great to watch, I can't believe this can be done. wow:bow:

Are you talking about the ovals, or just cutting straight lines with a hand cutter?

I've been cutting glass with a hand cutter for years, and museum with a hand cutter for the last several;

However as I'm getting older and my arm is not as stable, I was having problems doing a clean cut on cuts of over 35 inches about 10% of the time, (couldn't reach as well so sometimes a hook in the first 1 or 2 inches) so I did break down and get a Fletcher 3000 used, for those long cuts.

As far as cutting ovals by hand, there was a class a few years ago at the PPFA convention that showed us how; There was a collection of oval frames, and you could choose which one you wanted to cut glass for. At the end, everyone was doing ovals with the cheap steel wheel hand cutter.

Oh, and by the way, the instructor was Baer. I wish they had the class again!