Cutting linen mats

Create a Post
Class

Class

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Posts
241
Loc
Asheville, NC
Hey all,
I never have had this problem, perhaps I have just been lucky so far but I cut two linen mats using our Wizard (c7550, smokey hill) and I noticed it fraying by the bevel, or the other one (there were two) seems as of it is cutting unevenly, almost as if the blade is reintroducing itself at certain sections. Any thoughts/suggestions. And yes I changed the blade.
Thanks
 
I've had those problems too but I'm not sure if there's really a remedy though. The uneven looking edge I find tends to happen more if the "grain" or texture of the linen doesn't sit quite straight on the board. If I get little threads that look like they stick out or fray (even if they're not actually fraying), sometimes I'll carefully trim the excess with a super sharp pair of Fiskars.
 
What kdub said regarding the grain is the problem most of the time. You can also make sure you have a fresh blade in the machine and a fresh slip sheet behind your mat.
 
Don't forget to have your blade set to the proper depth! I do this by plunging the blade into the slipsheet directly behind the mat. If it goes in up to the top of the bevel, I'm good.
 
on my Fletcher 2100 - I know not computerized, but it works ;)

I will take some of that blue barely stick to anything painters masking tape and on the front of the mat, tape over where I will be cutting through.

This keeps the "runs" from developing in the mat as you cut it.
It works. Not sure if it would help on a computer computer, but it works on a handheld.
 
When cutting fabric mats on a Wizard, use a fresh blade and make sure your slip sheet isn't worn. The Wizard has a blade angle that is flatter than my Fletcher manual cutter - it makes for nicer (bigger) bevels, but makes fabric mat cutting a little dicier. I cut a lot of fabric mats - mostly reverse bevel for fillets - and I have made adjustments in design to accommodate this quirk. I try to use fillets that have a tall enough vertical "rabbet" to hold the fabric evenly. I much prefer a Wizard to a manual cutter, but I do understand the cost/benefit compromises necessary to produce this wonderful machine. As a former pilot, I understand that a "perfectly" safe airplane wouldn't fly - it has to be light enough to get into the air.
 
Thanks everybody,
I think considering this is my first time with this problem it must be the "grain" of the fabric. Also Baer, what DVD? I am always up to learn something new.
 
Something I do to stop the fraying is to take a small amount of fabric glue on your fingertip and lightly touch wherever there is a fraying problem. I use Frank's Fabric glue which dries totally transparent. Use very little and it is invisible.
 
I hate the look of a fabic board with a bevel showing, especially those coarse ones so I always wrap them by cutting a reverse bevel just through the board & not the fabric, then peel away the board & wrap the fabric.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top