Cutting Acrylic for sandwich display with standoffs

HB

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What is the best way to get smooth outside cuts on acrylic to be used for sandwich type display using standoffs?

If I cut with the board cutter, about 20% of the cuts (on 36" + long pcs) scoot offline, and all cuts are not that clean.

Is the table saw the way to go?

Do you sand & polish after cutting?

Any tricks to drilling without shattering?
 
Edges can be smoothed with blades, pieces of glass, sandpaper - to whatever degree of smoothness you desire. Keep going and you end up with crystal clear.

As to drilling without shattering - go slow - do not allow your drill to punch through - that is how shattering happens. They also make special bits for acrylic but I always lose track of which drill bit is for which so I just go slow.
 
Back when I was making the acrylic boxes I had one that maintained a 90 degree edge while the sheet layed flat on the table. It is also a one handed tool. This application would be fine with the beveled edge that Greg's site sells but needs a second set of hands to get a good squared edge.
 
What is the best way to get smooth outside cuts on acrylic to be used for sandwich type display using standoffs?

If I cut with the board cutter, about 20% of the cuts (on 36" + long pcs) scoot offline, and all cuts are not that clean.

Is the table saw the way to go?

Do you sand & polish after cutting?

Any tricks to drilling without shattering?

I have made a number of sandwich frames for acrylic with highly polished edges. Edges that are as good as what you see on glass table tops. This is how I do it.

I cut using a table saw and special no-melt blades for plastic. I have tried a number of different blades and found the Tenryu Pro Series for plastic gives me the best cuts. http://justsawblades.com/ten/plastic_saw_blades.html

Here is a sample cut with this blade.

AcrylicEdge-600.gif


While this is a great cut for framing, it is no where near what you want for a sandwich frame. The edges now need to be sanded and polished.

If you look closely at the image you will see slight blade marks. You need to wet sand the edges using 200 up to 1000 grit wet sandpaper. The grit you use depends on how much the edges need cleaning up. I leave the plastic mask on the acrylic while I am doing this to protect the acrylic.

After the acrylic is as smooth as you would like, then you need to buff out the edges. I use buffing compound for plastic and a buffing wheel on a grinder.

It's an iterative process but you can get highly polished edges.

If you don't use a blade appropriate for acrylic, your cut may look like this.

BadAcrylic2-600.gif


This cut was made using a normal table saw blade and is beyond any help.

I have never had any luck making smooth cuts using my Fletcher. Some of the others here have, but not me.

I wouldn't try to drill acrylic using normal drill bits. They aren't made for plastic and the results will not be good. There are drill bits made for plastics that you can find by googling "drill bits for plastic". Here is one example: http://www.rplastics.com/plasticdrill.html
The bits are fairly cheap.
 
You can also use a torch to smooth the edges for the type of display being made. Practice a little on scrap but it will smooth and round the edge slightly at the same time.
 
It's very commonly used Larry. Before gluing I would scrape the edges and use the torch very gently to clear the scraped edges. It gives you beautiful seams.
 
It's very commonly used Larry. Before gluing I would scrape the edges and use the torch very gently to clear the scraped edges. It gives you beautiful seams.

I've never made any boxes or glued acrylic so that's why I probably haven't seen it.
 
The guy to makes the flats we use for surface mounting cuts the pieces on a table saw, sands with a single grade of medium coarse sand paper, then polishes on a big fabric buffer wheel on a ordinary grinder turret. Doesn't take very long.

There are a ton of videos on youtube on this subject, search "flame polish plastic" etc. Interesting that a lot of them use a tiny micro-torch, which seems to keep a fairly sharp edged corner which would be nice for surface mounting when the image has to be trimmed flush with the edge. The problem with buffing is you get a rounded edge.

Here's a cautionary tale...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8MEhbH6DK4&feature=related
 
Just don't breath the fumes from the melting plastic.
They can cause pancreatic damage.
 
Thanks all, esp Larry for the photos. Guess I gotta call FrameWare to order some standOffs
 
When drilling the holes, I use 4 different sizes: starting with the thinnest and finishing with the size that the standoff can go through. It's the only way I know that doesn't produce cracks/fractures in the acrylic.
 
Just don't breath the fumes from the melting plastic.
They can cause pancreatic damage.

If you get fumes from torching the edge you have ruined the platic. The heat smoothes the edge and before there are fumes black burnt edges will appear.
 
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