Question Cutting a 64" x 38" Mat??

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MaJa

MaJa

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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I know there are threads on large mats, but I can't find them. Searching for "large mat" is like yelling "Santa" in the mall break room on Christmas Eve.

We've got a "big" job. Would like to cut a rag mat that is about 64" x 38" with 1" mat on the long sides and 1 1/2" on the top and the bottom. I've tried to trick my Wizard into it, but it knows what I'm up to and will not let me.

I've ask Larson and Framers Inventory and they both said they can not cut over 40" x 60".

The only thing I can think of is a hand held mat cutter. That really, really does not sound like fun. I'm also thinking about using two 40" x 60"'s to splice a mot together, but I'm not sure how easy that would be to see.

Ideas? Suggestions??
 
We routinely cut mats that are over 40 X 60.

We use a 60" straight line cutter. I would cut the short sides in the cutter, then remove the bar and place it on top of the mat (I'm guessing you'll be cutting the back of the mat so you have a bevel) cutting along the pencils lines you've made.

One person can hold the body of the straight line cutter, while the other person holds the tip of the other side and the blade head, and pull along the desired path. You will have to move the cutting rail at least once during this maneuver.

Make sure you have a slip mat beneath the mat you cut.

With practice you can cut this down to a one person job.
 
Good to know, that sounds way better then a hand held.

Even better is, I remeasured the art and it's 61 3/8"! I can talk the Wizard into that one if I can talk the art into 1 1/2" on the sides ...
 
If you decide to splice on the Wizard, the process is fairly straightforward:

Design half width mat; set right margin to zero; cut first half face down; change opening that will be spliced to reverse bevel; cut second half face up; splice.

You may find that you need to slightly tweak the height of the opening by maybe up to 1/8" for the second half to get a perfect splice, dependent on Wiz config, so run a test first on some scrap for just the opening where the splice will occur. There is another way of doing it using PathTrace which avoids the need to tweak, but the way I've just described is quick & easy.

For the splice I like to use a smidgen of PVA on the mating bevels being VERY careful to avoid over application - you don't want any squeeze out onto the face! Weight till dry, Then reinforce the back with tape. It's basically a mini scarf joint & works quite well.

Here's an example using a dark mat which increases visibility of the splice. Using a white is a piece of cake!

IMG_2794.jpg


This is highly magnified and still looks pretty good! Good enough????

IMG_2796.jpg
 
Since I didn't have a wizard, I cut oversize mats using Artrageous' method--works well with a little practice. I also spliced mats a lot of the time by splicing them to have 'mitred' corners. Looks like it was intentional, especially if there's an accent color or if the 'rails' are butted together to make a v-groove.

CAframer said:
If you decide to splice on the Wizard, the process is fairly straightforward:

Design half width mat; set right margin to zero; cut first half face down; change opening that will be spliced to reverse bevel; cut second half face up; splice. You may find that you need to slightly tweak the height of the opening by maybe up to 1/8" for the second half to get a perfect splice, dependent on Wiz config, so run a test first on some scrap for just the opening where the splice will occur. There is another way of doing it using PathTrace which avoids the need to tweak, but the way I've just described is quick & easy. For the splice I like to use a smidgen of PVA on the mating bevels being VERY careful to avoid over application - you don't want any squeeze out onto the face! Weight till dry, Then reinforce the back with tape. It's basically a mini scarf joint & works quite well.
Click to expand...

Before gluing spliced dark colored mats, be sure to color the bevels in a similar color to the mat just in case. Colored pencils work well for this (water based markers can bleed so be careful with those and practice).
 
We may have to splice, the customer would like blue and I can only find the huge sheets in white and white-like colors.
 
AJ mentioned fabric, too.

We are very limited on space. We are reusing the original frame. It is currently front to back: standard glass, art, plywood. :faintthud:

It's a 1920's Chinese painting on rice paper. Not sure when the framing is from, but the customer wants to keep it. They built a nice strainer construction, but put the art right onto the plywood backer. We want to fit in a Rag mat backer and a top mat to cover a water stain and give some space between the glass. Hopefully replacing the glass with Museum Glass!
 
Buy an Alto's Ez mat cutter it will cut mats as big as you can buy the board....40x 60 or 48x120 it will cut it and will do a very good job of it. They cost about $90.00-$125.00

If you can't find one we sell them just ask i can send you one out.
 
large glass

Very large fames do not do well with glass. 2 mil glass can brake, if the frame twists and laminted glass or 3-4 mil glass are heavy and expensive. Acrylic or polycarbonate sheet are the only cost-effective, safe glazing alternatives, when frames get large.


Hugh
 
Make sure you have a support board ready for that mat once you have it done. Making it is only half the challenge, you then have to move it around without it self destructing.

If you are going to splice anyway, you don't need super sized mats for the project. You can get strips long enough by cutting them on the diagonal from a single 40x60 board. It means splicing at the corners of the mat, but those are relatively easy to pull off.
 
Too easy...

Mary,

Go with Gumby's suggestion below....

GUMBY said:
Buy an Alto's Ez mat cutter it will cut mats as big as you can buy the board....40x 60 or 48x120 it will cut it and will do a very good job of it. They cost about $90.00-$125.00 If you can't find one we sell them just ask i can send you one out.
Click to expand...

I included this in a PFM Mat Doctors' article sometime ago. Of all of the simple to complex mat cutters ever made, the Alto EZ cutter is the only machine that has an attached guide but open ends. Technically, you could cut a mat 24 inchs by 100 feet in dimension.

On the "long" sides, you simply make the cut as far as the length of the machine, then slide the mat further along, reinsert the blade (carefully) and continue. I would recommend this technique over dissmantling a table top mat cutter every time.

John
 
I just take the bar off as well. Put a piece of fome board under it for a slip sheet.

How you gonna cut the plexi? :) I always forget that part when I price out the big jobs :) Thew 72 by 120 will get you enough plexi for 3 frames, if you can cut it yourself....
 
Museum glass does come that big. It will fit in our Excalibur for cutting, but just barely. It does have glass in it now.

I am pricing acrylic as well. That we can get cut to size, but we are lucky enough to have a panel saw, so we can do it!

You guys are great, thanks for all your help and ideas!
 
If you have access to over oversized mat board, why not paint the white to the color required? Acrylic paint works wonders and you can ever incorporate some swirls or random patterns to make it look like fabric.
 
I'll 3rd the suggestion for the Alto. Much easier. And I would paint the matboard.
 
I cut mats this size FACE UP in my FT2100. I use post-it notes to mark the corners and 3 or 4 every so often down the cut line so I can stay lined up when I shift the mat. after you cut remove the post-its and there you go.
 
Ditto on the Alto, we use one on rarely but it sure comes in handy for some projects. I've had mine for over 20 years.
 
Okay, not sure how I've lived without an Alto!! Which model do I need?? The 4501? Alto Website

And WHY did I not think to paint the matboard?? Just a good quality acrylic paint will work okay?
 
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