Cutting 8ply Thicknesses

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The Lone Framer

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Any recommendations for a cutter which will eliminate (a) the calases I have built up (b) the cost of repairing my wall mount cutter from all the shock it gets slamming into the stops after passing through 8ply (4 passes (or so)per cut on average), or (c) the resharpening costs for my Ideal guillotine blade (which at the current popularity of 8ply is about 3 times a year) and (d) my doctor's bill for the newest arrival to my wrist "repetitive motion disorder" (just kidding, but I'm sure that's not far away)???
 
I would appreciate a good tip on this as well. Cutting 8-ply board is a B*#@$ ! Even under perfect conditions (freshly cleaned cutter, etc.) and using 3 or 4 passes, those suckers can still hook at the corner...unacceptable! AAAGH!
 
Sure, 8-ply mats are more difficult to cut. But if you're taking four passes with the blade and still have to pull hard enough to slam the cutter into the stops, it's time to get a sharp blade -- four passes should make it an easy task for you and the tool.

If corner-hooking is a problem, here are a few suggestions:

1. Check the adjustment of your machine's cutting head. If it is loose or wobbly on the bar, then it will be more likely to hook. And bind.

2. Use a thicker blade. Most matcutter blades are .012 thick, but .015 blades are better for 8-ply mats, and should still fit neatly into the cutting head of your nmachine.

3. When pulling through the cutting strokes, stand so that your elbow stays directly aligned with the line of the cut. If your elbow moves to one side or the other in the cutting motion, then your hand wants to follow, putting a twisting force on the cutting head -- and that could be the source of the hook.

4. I like to clean up mat corners after cutting, using a fresh razor blade in hand. Fine sandpaper sticks help too, but make sure they are absolutely clean.

Hope that helps.
 
I've put a regular Stanley blade #11-911 into both an old C&H and also a fletcher 2000. I've never had to do it with the new Fletcher 2100 it has a different holder so it might not work. Once you figure the right blade depth, just put the blade down and cut. Use a new blade on every mat. Always worked perfect.
 
I have cut a lot of 8, 12, &16-ply mats, and as mentioned before the sharpness of the blade is critical. I use Hendrickson blades and clean the trailing edge of the blade with a hard Arkansas white razor stone before cutting. I undercut the corner slightly and finish with a double edge shaving blade. With a .15" mat blade you should be able to make the cut in one pass with a smooth action on 8-ply board.
Another cause of hooking could be the set-up of the mat cutter itself. The bed needs to be absolutely flat or hooking can occur. Any irregularities in the surface of the bed will be exaggerated in the bevel cut.
 
I cut about 15 8-plys a week. Aside from keeping your wrist aligned with the bar and rod, you should also keep your wrist locked, and use your shoulder and elbow to move the head. A new blade for each mat helps make things go smoother, and you can eliminate hooks even with a .012 blade if you set the blade so it enters your slipsheet gust to the top of the bevel.

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Seth J. Bogdanove, CPF
21 years framing and still loving it
 
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