Does anyone have any suggestions for cutting 40x60 (TruVue Premium Clear) glass on a wall cutter (Fletcher 3000) so that it doesn't break? Would it help to add tape to the back of the glass? The breakage is always toward the good side. (This is getting expensive.) Thanks!
Question Cutting 40x60 glass - breaking
- Thread starter lg3
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You shouldn't have to use any tape.
I use the same cutter and have not had that problem.
You might have the wrong cutting wheel for the glass you are cutting. The wheels come in a couple of different cutting angles.
You might try increasing the pressure adjustment (the large brass screw on the cutting head).
You can also try pressing lightly on the cutting head with one hand while stroking the cut with the other.
Also, DON'T engage the clamp when cutting glass.
When you snap the glass, snap it in place, don't move it after you score it.
It should snap easily with just a one finger push.
I use the same cutter and have not had that problem.
You might have the wrong cutting wheel for the glass you are cutting. The wheels come in a couple of different cutting angles.
You might try increasing the pressure adjustment (the large brass screw on the cutting head).
You can also try pressing lightly on the cutting head with one hand while stroking the cut with the other.
Also, DON'T engage the clamp when cutting glass.
When you snap the glass, snap it in place, don't move it after you score it.
It should snap easily with just a one finger push.
put a piece of foam board behind the glass on the side that you 'snap'. It works for me! If the piece is long and skinny, try over-size cutting it, then trim to size. I find that if I have too much glass on the snap side (in my case the right side) it will sometimes snap before my score is complete......makes me jump everytime! 
Bob Doyle
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
What are you trying to cut out of it? 12 by 60? 38 7/8" by 59 3/4"? How much scrap is hanging over?
Trying to determine the stresses in play. The long side should be fully supported regardless of whether that is the scrap side or the good side. And cut the smaller one first in this case. So instead of trying to cut through the whole 60" side cut the 40" first.
Gotta have a good clean wheel. Does it score smoothly or chatter and stutter. Might be time to replace the wheel.
You have a lot of weight in glass hanging in the air on the unsupported side minimize that as much as possible, which is why I suggest cutting the small side first. 48" in the air is lighter than 60"....
Trying to determine the stresses in play. The long side should be fully supported regardless of whether that is the scrap side or the good side. And cut the smaller one first in this case. So instead of trying to cut through the whole 60" side cut the 40" first.
Gotta have a good clean wheel. Does it score smoothly or chatter and stutter. Might be time to replace the wheel.
You have a lot of weight in glass hanging in the air on the unsupported side minimize that as much as possible, which is why I suggest cutting the small side first. 48" in the air is lighter than 60"....
Artrageous
PFG, Picture Framing God
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Many years ago when I first got my Fletcher, glass would break during the cut. The vertical section directly behind the score line was not flat. It bulged outward slightly about 24" up. There is an adjustment for that.
The most likely cause is that you are using the clamp! Never use the clamp when cutting glass!
The most likely cause is that you are using the clamp! Never use the clamp when cutting glass!
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It seems that your 'snap' side is not supported, Julie! That side can be adjusted to give full support.put a piece of foam board behind the glass on the side that you 'snap'. It works for me! If the piece is long and skinny, try over-size cutting it, then trim to size. I find that if I have too much glass on the snap side (in my case the right side) it will sometimes snap before my score is complete......makes me jump everytime!
I sometimes cut a 12" piece, leaving 36" on the 'snap' side and never have a break!
Artrageous
PFG, Picture Framing God
Osgood, I don't have the problem every time with my BG6100 , just seems to happen when its a full oversize sheet. I'm moving at the end of this month and I'll have another opportunity to set it up and will keep an eye on it. Thanks. Perhaps the foam board tucked behind the glass gives me more confidence! Not a bad thing....afterall, glass deserves respect!!!
Here's the sticker that should be on the 3000.
Kirstie
PFG, Picture Framing God
Am I the only one here who hates oversize glass? Over 30 x 40 and we usually move to acrylic. No breakage, less weight, equal protection, and less worries in earthquake country.
The last time I used a sheet of 40 x 60 glass was Reflection Control for a designer's white board project.
The last time I used a sheet of 40 x 60 glass was Reflection Control for a designer's white board project.
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Osgood, I don't have the problem every time with my BG6100 , just seems to happen when its a full oversize sheet. I'm moving at the end of this month and I'll have another opportunity to set it up and will keep an eye on it. Thanks. Perhaps the foam board tucked behind the glass gives me more confidence! Not a bad thing....afterall, glass deserves respect!!!
Julie,
We're comparing eggs to apples here.
Your foam board tip probably doesn't help this user....The machine in question is the F-3000 which has a built-in anvil in the design so that the glass is set in position and slight pressure at the bottom of the score allows the break to run to the top.
lg3,
Keep in mind regardless if this is a samll piece of glass or a giant sheet - a GOOD score is barely visible and barely audible. It should be an even score from top to bottom - with this light touch the glass will break cleanly.
John
Good deal. I kind of thought the clamp might be the problem.Here's the sticker that should be on the 3000.
Those stickers can often be missing.
You can kind of tell from the sticker that they weren't kidding.
That's good advice.
Bob is right - you must keep your cutting wheel clean and lubricated. Replace it often, unless you use a carbide wheel. And remember, the lightest possible score will make the cleanest cut. If the cutting wheel skips, replace it - don't be tempted to increase the scoring pressure.
On last tip: break from the end of the score, not the beginning of the score, and use score-running pliers.
On the Fletcher 3000?
I've never used a pliers to snap the glass on the wall cutter and never needed it and you shouldn't have to use one. (unless you're breaking off less than 1/2")
Sometimes these threads get way more complicated than they need to be.
You also want to make sure your cutting wheel is in good shape! A little drop of machine oil ( I have even used baby oil) will reduce wear.
You need to give your 3000 a tune up. Get a new carbide scoring wheel, install it and back off the tension knob until it makes no noise on a piece of scrap glass. Gradually increase the pressure until you can hear the wheel scoring the glass (do not score the glass in the same place twice...ever), and the break runs cleanly from bottom to top. Finger pressure should be all that is needed. Once tuned you should be able to run 1/4" cut offs over any length.
There is probably a tutorial on Fletcher's website about tuning up the machine (John? Jim? Anything on that?).
There is probably a tutorial on Fletcher's website about tuning up the machine (John? Jim? Anything on that?).
I was the one in the chat room that asked if you was using the clamp, a few hours ago. I don't think you saw my response, but I'm glad to hear that the mystery is solved!
Mike
Mike
Sorry, thought all wall-mounted cutters clamped the glass just like mine! BTW, I un-clamp to snap it.
Kristie: I also move to acrylic beyond 36x48 and 32x40
Kristie: I also move to acrylic beyond 36x48 and 32x40
tfg
True Grumbler
A couple days ago I had to cut a piece of ArtGlass Mirrorgard.
Sheet size was 48" x 69 1/2". Odd size for the glass to come.
Had to cut it down to 29" x 68" on my work table.
Wasn't fun but it wasn't difficult either.
Just drew a line with a long piece of aluminum stock and then free handed the cut.
Sheet size was 48" x 69 1/2". Odd size for the glass to come.
Had to cut it down to 29" x 68" on my work table.
Wasn't fun but it wasn't difficult either.
Just drew a line with a long piece of aluminum stock and then free handed the cut.
Dave
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I would have no idea how to use a wall mounted glass cutter. I have one that I use for board cutting but cut all glass by hand.
No different than cutting by hand except the cutter is in a slot and won't deviate from straight. Depending on what I am cutting, I use both.
kuluchicken
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
I tried to cut by hand but just kept trashing the glass. It was only supplied in huge sheets in SA, bigger that 40"x60" roughly about(1.35mx1.85m)
I bought a wall cutter about 20 years ago and have been cutting glass successfully ever since. I have never tried to cut by hand again. Maybe one day I'll give it a shot again.
I bought a wall cutter about 20 years ago and have been cutting glass successfully ever since. I have never tried to cut by hand again. Maybe one day I'll give it a shot again.
Grey Owl
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I cut mine by hand and only have an occasional problem if I'm taking 1/2" or less off of a long cut. I use pliers for this, but sometimes I have it break to the right at the opposite end from where I start the break.
Normally, if I have a problem, I take a piece of scrap glass and do a score of 10 to 12 inches, and check the score very carefully but do not break. If the score is slightly irregular at a regular interval, I toss the hand cutter and use a new one, and my problem goes away. If the score is fine, I just know it is irregular pressure caused by user error.
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A wall mounted cutter enables you to cut everything, boards and glass on the same stops and saves time - why not use it for what it was designed for? IMHO it's also safer for glass because it's handled vertically right up until it has to be handled horizontally, for cleaning/fitting, and even then, for larger pieces, that can be a bit scary.
I'd never lay down a 40x60 sheet of glass horizontally.
I'd never lay down a 40x60 sheet of glass horizontally.