Question Cutting 4" length moulding cuts

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Sherry Lee

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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We have a single DeWalt saw with the Phaedra table. All is fine for 6" and more. We have a series to cut in which two sides are 4".....there is a division in the Phaedra measuring table because of the design (it is seperated - thus anything under about 6" is not accurate). Those completed so far have been quite time consuming because of this problem.

Marking the moulding is not accurate.

Suggestions please....and thank you!
 
Build bigger frames??????

Sorry!~ I will leave the serious answers to someone else...

Just curious how much do you charge for your 4X? frame?
 
We have a similar issue with Clearmount scale.

I measured with a triangle and ruler and marked the "shorter section" with measuring lines. Cleared and redrew until I got them accurate.
 
I'm not OSHA, but that isn't safe. I will admit to cutting smaller pieces on my Phaedra, but I didn't like it.
You need to build a jig that you can clamp to the fence to get that short of a length. AND you need to build a clamping mechanism for the moulding so your fingers are not anywhere close to the saw blade.
 
I used my chopper for anything too small for the saw. But if you don't have one, that doesn't help. So here's my other suggestion.

Get your first leg cut accurately, doing whatever measure-mark-cut-repeat steps as necessary. Then using that as your template piece, pull down your saw blade and then butt the leg up against the blade (assuming that you don't have any blade wobble when it actually cuts) and move the hold down clamps into place. If the clamps don't go in that far, cut a scrap piece of moulding with a 45 degree angle and use that as a 'spacer' to bridge between the hold down clamp and the moulding you're cutting. Be sure to clamp that securely so it doesn't pop up on you when you're cutting. Test with scraps to tinker with and perfect your technique (and to find any pitfalls).

If you don't want to get your fingers in there to hold the frame down while the saw is running, you could wrap the end of a blunt cut scrap with that white packing foam and use it to hold the rail in place.
 
This is where a disc sander comes in handy.

I'll use masking tape and a pencil mark to get the size right.

Then I'll use a push stick or just hold the moulding from the left side.

No way I'm going to hold the moulding on the right side close to the blade.

With out a clamp or a good hold you will get a terrible mitre cut but I tune that up on my disc sander.

Doug
 
I do this stuff a lot:

- measure out a 10-inch length, then use this setting
- you need a 5-inch extender. It is a trapezoid shape. Use to extend the length.
- the ruler will work at 9 inches. If you don't understand this, PM me and I'll talk you through it tomorrow by phone - I'll call you.

This process is so simple you won't believe it. No risk of flying offcuts either.
 
tedh said:
I do this stuff a lot:

- measure out a 10-inch length, then use this setting
- you need a 5-inch extender. It is a trapezoid shape. Use to extend the length.
- the ruler will work at 9 inches. If you don't understand this, PM me and I'll talk you through it tomorrow by phone - I'll call you.

This process is so simple you won't believe it. No risk of flying offcuts either.
Click to expand...

great idea! simple.
 
I use Ted's method on my chopper, but I would look into using something other than my fingers to hold down the moulding on a chop saw. My table "bit" my thumb bad enough 2 XMas' ago, I'd hate to see what a chop saw would do to my "manicure". Heck, when I get too close to the chopper blades I have shaved a little cuticle off my nails, a spinning blade would not be anywhere near as forgiving....
 
I have a Pistorius saw and I have an annual job that requires 4 1/2" legs.

I cut a piece or stretcher bar stock and clamp it in place as a stop. I push the moulding through the cutting area until it hits against the stop and I'm able to hold the moulding down while to saw makes the cut.

Since my saw is foot operated, I have both hands free to hold the moulding.
 
I will share this with the Master Cutter! :)) We so appreciate everyone's replies.

One thing I failed to mention - the mouldings have various widths....unfortunately. That complicates the matter.
 
Sherry Lee said:
One thing I failed to mention - the mouldings have various widths....unfortunately. That complicates the matter.
Click to expand...

Not at all...with the 5-inch extender you just add 5" to whatever dimension you need, because you set up your stop at the ten-inch mark. Molding width doesn't matter. Uncannily accurate. I can't believe I figured this out: I was certain Hannafate was talking about me in her the Dimwit of the Week!
 
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