Cuts opening at back

laurieS

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Posts
13
Hi

I have an old Morso cutter and noticed that while it cuts 45 degees OK when I put the frame together the backs of the corners are open. I cannot figure out why this is happening.
Does anyone know what would fix this problem.

Cheers
Laurie
 
Welcome to the Grumble.

Take a long metal straight edge and loosen the 2 fence stops. Lay the rule against the measuring guide and gently ease the 2 fences against the rule. Tighten them down and you are good to go.
 
Is this gap more noticeable with hard woods?

If, after following Jeff’s suggestion, you are still getting this gap, it may be that while you are lowering the blades, the moulding on the left is being pushed slightly to the left during the final cut.

Try taking smaller “nibbles”, and for the final slice pay particular attention to keep the moulding stick on the left from slipping.

Also, if you are using an underpinner while joining, move the outermost V-nail very slightly toward the interior of the frame. A little bit may make a big difference in keeping this gap from appearing.

Welcome to the Grumble.
 
Do the rails go together OK on a 'dry' fit or do the gaps appear when underpinning? If the latter, it could be more of a joining issue than cutting one. Not enough pressure on the top of the join will produce exactly that fault. Particually on hard woods.
 
Hi

Thanks for all the replies and welcomes.
The corners are open before underpinning however prospero's post is something to look out for. Oddly, I think I have felt the moulding on the left move on the final cut as Bill described. Thanks for the idea, I am now off to check this out further. By the way, has anyone seen a video on how to make a perfect cut using a Morso?
 
Laurie. I have read your post again and I may have been giving you a fix for a different problem.:icon19: I thought you meant a gap at the back of the join. That is, on the underside of the frame. I realise now that you probably meant a gap in the outer corner, as if the mitre 45 deg miter angles where off.

This being the case, I would do this:

Change the blades for a freshly sharpened set. Pay extra attention to making sure they are correctly seated, no gunge underneath and exactly the same hight. Then do Jeff's suggestion and check the fences are perfectly in line. Next, get some scrap pieces of scrap moulding. wide as possble. Pieces of 3" wide plain timber will do fine.
Cut some small frames, maybe 8" sq. See if these go together dry without any gaps. If there is still a gap, try slackening the left fence and swing it toward you a whisker. Tighten it again and do another test frame. The gap will either get smaller or bigger. If it gets smaller, move the fence another whisker until it goes altogether. If it gets bigger, move it away from you. It's a question of trial and error. Remember, each tweak in the angle will be multiplied by 4.

This may or may not fix the prob. There are a lot of factors to consider, so it is hard to give advice. It may be that the blades are not ground correctly. Or sometimes when you have been cutting a lot of narrowish moulding, the blades may be dull at the front and still razor-sharp at the back. So when yo come to cut a wider moulding, the sharper part of the blade bites first and the back of the moulding gets cut with the less sharp section. On wide deep-scoop mouldings the blade is going to hit the inside first, then the back and the middle last. This can make the moulding wriggle about as the blade is trying to make two different tracks.
 
You can also add some adhesive backed emery cloth to the support table to keep the moulding from sliding during your cuts.
 
Results

Hi All

Firstly, thanks to all the people who posted a reply. I have had a bit more of a play and I believe the problem is due to slippage on the left side of the cut ( must try that emery paper trick) and a slight twist in the moulding itself. I hadn't noticed the twist until I tried different mouldings. It is amazing how a small twist can wreak things.
 
The twist unless very major should not be a problem except on very wide moulding in a small frame. Make sure you chop one notch at a time. hold the moulding firmly down on the support table near the blades.
 
Take a long metal straight edge and loosen the 2 fence stops. Lay the rule against the measuring guide and gently ease the 2 fences against the rule. Tighten them down and you are good to go.

I believe that is the first step. To fine tune from there.

Take a wide flat profile and cut four piece equal length.

Join them with an underpinner.

Note where the joints are open. Inside or outside.

If the mitre is open on the inside of the frame, move the left fence toward the blades.

Your mitres are open on the outside so move the left fence away from the blade.

Make sure the adjustments are very slight. Any adjustment is magnified 8 times on the finished frame.
 
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