crumbling molding


Sep 5, 2006
Buderim, Queensland, Australia
Hi All,

I am having trouble with a batch of very thin molding made from very soft wood. Every mitre I cut with my Morso I get a large number of chips out of the outer edge which looks really bad, I don't have this problem with any other moldings. I have tried making very slow cuts, fine cuts etc etc but no big improvement, its like the edge is almost crumbling away as its cut.

Any ideas or should I just send it back to the supplier?

Here is an earlier thread that may be helpful; and here is another.

If none of these tips work, try it on a saw, or send it back & if necessary have the supplier chop!
Oh yes, tropical snotwood with a gesso coating.

The problem is that the coating is harder than the wood. It can help to put a piece of tape on the outside of the molding to sort of brace the coating. Make sure the tape will come off without taking off color, first.

Sometimes, putting a strip of mat board in the cutter, along the back of the molding, works as well.

Sending the molding back to the manufacturer and asking them to replace it with something made out of WOOD instead of toilet paper also works.
I must agree with Hannah, had to do this with some linen liner not very long ago.

Although, Tammy who works here and does alot of the chopping since I had to have my left foot amputated calls it "turd wood"

Originally posted by HannaFate:

Sending the molding back to the manufacturer and asking them to replace it with something made out of WOOD instead of toilet paper also works.
Yep, I did just that today with a batch that bought recently for a great price....
The stink of ****y product stains the air long after the departure of the savory taste of a sweet deal.

If the moulding costs $.60/ft and you throw out half of the moulding as bad chops, the cost is not $1.20; it's $1.20+ your labor.
Pretty much every company has this now. The biggest people on the food chain are just as guilty as the local vendor. This is because in most cases they dont make it, so it comes to them like that. And unfortunately there is no way to know unless you cut it.

If you had a saw this would be less of an issue. With really bad stuff it still causes problesm.

...and of course, a lot of it is our own fault. "Don't want to pay too much" "Gotta have it cheaper" "Need a sharp pencil on this order" "Need some cheap stuff for the bottom feeders". And, sure enough, that's what we get.
Sharpen the blades.

You might want to sharpen the blades.

If that don't work, sharpen the blades.
About a month ago, I changed blades on my Morso, and at that time I tried Steve Kerr's suggestion of running a bead of Silicone into the “V” gap in the fence.

Since that time, I haven’t had any chips, and all of the outer edges of non-gesso rails are clean and smooth.

Oh, yeah, and if you can read between the lines, Jay Hartman’s obscure and subtle reference of having sharp blades is worthy of consideration, too. :D
Ellen, you are not being ignored . . .

by everyone.

There are some that understand that buying cheap, more often than not costs more than buying budget quality.

It's out there, you just have to pay attention instead of "pay the price". And then [in the words of Bob] capitalize on a buying advantage. :D
I rarely stock a moulding over $1. I'm the king of cheap mouldings. With the exception of bad spots in the wood, I have never had a problem cutting any moulding cheap or not.

I have never experianced cheap mouldings cutting better or worse than good mouldings if your equipment is in good working order.

I do have a .39 black decor moulding I stock. If my blades go dull, the morso eats that moulding. Its certinaly not the mouldings fault and when I sharpen the blades it cuts like buttah.

Carry on.
The problem of snotwood is not limited to cheap mouldings. Most of the new profiles are on snotwood or something almost as soft.

The cheapest mouldings I've seen are made of extruded polystyrene, which often cuts and joins more easily than snotwood.