Crud....metal moulding problem

Garnetta

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
May 31, 2004
Posts
225
Loc
Missouri
Well great. Please don't laugh at this.

One of my workers sold five metal frames to a customer and one of the sides on each job is less than 6" long. The worker didn't realize our supplier will not chop the frames smaller than 6". We are a small, new frame shop and we do not have room for a power miter saw so we always purchase chops. Is there any way I can cut these metal frames down to their very small size with a hand miter box and a hand saw of some kind?

Thank you for any and all ideas. If only this would have happened at another time of year and not in the middle of Christmas rush.

Garnetta
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No hand mitre saw will give you a good cut. Best if you check with another supplier.
 
There's a reason that Larson Juhl won't cut them. Is it worth your brother's (or your own) fingers?

Ran into the same problem a few months ago. I knew they wouldn't cut less than 6 inches - I just forgot. Upgraded the customer's frame to a wood that I could cut on the chopper. Explained the problem to the customer and gave them a choice of about 6 frames that I would upgrade to at the same price as the medals, so I really didn't take a big hit. Maybe that will work for you.

We also have a saw and my husband looked at where his fingers would be at 6 inches and said, "No way." I don't think that it's LJ's policy - I think it's an OSHA thing.
 
Yes they can be cut on a power mitre saw. You will need a non-ferous metal blade. Do not use a carbide tipped blade as it will throw the scrap and is very dangerous. Use emery cloth with adhesive backing on the base so that the moulding doesn't crawl during the cuts. The front side of the moulding should be facing the blade. Also use a scrap of wood to hold the moulding to assure safety. The blade will be turned away from your hand. You can cut down to as small as the hardware for the frame will allow assembly. Also use a lubricant such as Talo or you can use parafin wax if you do not intend to continue cutting metal.
 
My saw is set up with pnumatic horizontal clamps with plexi guards that make cutting smaller than 6" but no less than 4" relatively safe. But, it also depends on the profile.

Can't say I agree with the suggestion to not use carbide tipped blades. It is all we use and have used for 25 years. We also use soluable oil sprayed on the blades. Using and especially applying wax is even more dangerous and MESSY.

If you can't find someone locally to cut your chops for you, let us know and we can help.
 
Carbide tipped blades are the way to go with a closed assembly. With a simple mitre saw you do not have safety guards and the tips will throw the scrap. I know this for a fact since I tried it with tipped blades 20 years ago and ended up in the ER. This framer is not using a saw that was designed for operator safety.
 
Garnetta, take Rob up on it. You'll be amazed and spoiled by true service.

Unless the surf is up and running.... :D

Oh just joking Rob... we all know that there are no surf boards to be had now that Clark [Foam] took a sledge-hammer to all his molds and shapers....

Man, what a way to go out of business....

For those that don't know.. the guy who produced 65-70% of the worlds foam blanks for surfboards for the last 45-50 years just closed....

Instead of giving warning ... he just went in on a Sunday and smashed EVERYTHING... Then gave everyone two weeks paycheck on Monday and said "thank you very much".

This emediately threw hundreds of shapers, fiber glassers, airbrushers and such out of work.... even if the one company in Australia COULD gear up emediately, they wouldn't be able to fill the void before June....

Some of the big producers go through 2,000 blanks a month......

This is another industry that most people don't even pay attention to... but has a total industry annual generation of $12 BIllION in the US alone.

so why am I going on about this....?

Imagine if today, somehow, Warren Buffett locked the doors on every Larson warehouse, shut off the phones and terminated everyone.....

Let that sink in for a few minutes. NOW think what if he had done that as of this last Sunday night.

If you don't think this could happen.... you haven't been around long enough. Ask an old timer from the West Coast about Victor Moulding...

sorry to have hyjacked your thread Garnetta....

Call Rob.
 
Originally posted by Rob Markoff:
If you can't find someone locally to cut your chops for you, let us know and we can help.
I had the good fortune to meet Rob on two occasions and each time I got the feeling that he was a true gentleman ………he has just confirmed that feel for me……

Garnetta take Rob up on his offer…….just by one interaction with him you will learn so much……..

Rob give yourself a BIG pat on the back……I’m proud to know you…..


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I don't cut many metals but am trying to get rid of the ever growing amount of frames that seem to just appear out of thin air. Sooo...I have a dewalt mitre saw with the Phaedra system, how often do you need to wax the blade? I bought the stick wax when I ordered the blades, (messymessymessy) but it doesn't say how often to apply.
Ruth
 
Instructions provided by FrameSquare give "Once per frame or 8 cuts" as a rule of thumb for NB15 or CM1500 profiles.

The wax is messy, but it sure helps to keep the blade cooler and last longer. I toss the sticks when they get down to 3" or less. That's just getting my fingers too close to a spinning blade.
 
Many thanks to all with these helpful suggestions. I'm going to call Rob today and see if he can cut these for me and get them to me before Christmas. Yikes!

Thank goodness for the Grumble! I salute all of you helpful, caring framers!

Garnetta
 
See if you have a small machine shop in your area
they usually have a band saw with a 45 deg guide they should have no problem cutting them. Usually they are good guys and would be glad to help you out.
 
For metal, we use a CTD D-45A with custom horizontal clamps designed by CTD for me 25 years ago! Sometimes we also use our CTD M225, which is a REAL single arm mitre saw.

For wood we use a CTD D45M because I like to feel the blade go through the wood and can adjust the feed rate accordingly. We alse have a Petersen sliding table saw which will cut 7" wide moulding 4 1/2" tall.
 
Garnetta-

I have to be in the field a lot of the day on Thursday.

Please FAX your info to me at 858 452-7210. Be sure to include the moulding profile and color, size and quantity needed, and whether your measurements are EXACT, or what kind of allowance you want added to your size. Also, be sure to give me your shipping address, whether it is commercial or residential, and your phone number. Please also let me know if you need/want hardware and what type of hanger. For this size I recommend a sawtooth hanger.
 
Rob,

I left for the gallery this morning before you posted your last post about being out in the field today. I tried calling your office several times and didn't catch you in. Since it was getting so late in the day I was afraid not to go ahead and place an "oversized" order with Larson-Juhl (my deadline for delivery was today). I was also afraid we wouldn't be able to get them shipped to me from you in time. I then called a local machine shop as dougj mentioned and they said they would have no problem cutting the small legs I need.

I've got my fingers crossed.

Anyway, thank you all so much for your kindness and help. I appreciate it. Wishing you a wonderful holiday!

Garnetta
 
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