cross stitch - no mat

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PurplePerson1

PurplePerson1

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Sep 18, 2001
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Mansfield, Ohio
I am sure I should know the answer to this, but I don't.

My cross stitch people are in the habit of recieving their stuff with all of the lines being exactly even. That is quick and easy to do when I have a mat to stretch to, because I can scoot the mat around above my sink mat.

However, when there is no mat, my fingers can not very easily reach up and under the frame and glass for stretching and it is difficult from me to make the lines even. It takes me forever to do it. I do stretch it straight to my board before fitting it in the frame and then to the frame without glass first.

I also do not come out perfectly with, say, 3 white lines around each side the first time. I have to do it several times before it comes out evenly distributed.

There has to be a trick to this I am missing. I need some suggestions. I do not lace. Think pins.
 
When I do cross stitch without a mat, I line it up and pin it the same way that I do to "sink" it. It all begins at the very start of the layout.

Lay your mounting board (I am assuming foamcore if you are pinning) on the work table. Lay the stitchery on top of your mounting board. Now you need to get an idea of an even spacing on each side of the image. I stretch the stitchery by hand and get it as evenly centered as I can. I then place a long straight T pin or other pin on one edge of the stitchery where it just goes over the edge of the mounting board using an in and out or basting pinning. Make sure that the pin goes in and comes out between the same line of threads. I hold that pin down with one hand and pull the other side taut with my other fingers while holding another T pin in my thumb and forefinger. When the cloth is taut, I place the pin just on the edge of the other side of the stitchery where it laps over the edge of the board. Now count the number of threads in the Aeida cloth from the very edge of the image on each side to the T pins. If the number of threads are even, you are centered. If there are an odd number of threads move the pins in the direction of the "short side" until they are an even count on both sides. Do this for the top and bottom and you should have your image perfectly centered.

Now, if you don't know about this next step, it is a real time saver. Flip the stitchery over on the reverse side, take the tip of a T pin or blunt tapestry needle and place it in the exact position of one of the pins. You want to hold the needle or pin so that it is angled away from the hand holding the needle/pin. Now grasp the end of the cloth on that side (the end that the needle is pointing towards and pull the cloth away from the needle. This should leave a fold in the cloth and, if done correctly, should run to the end of the cloth in the same "groove" (between the 2 threads on either side of the pin that you did the marking with). Pull that marking pin out, turn the cloth 180&#186 and place the needle/pin in the same groove and pull the cloth towards the opposite end of that side. You should have a fold in the aeida cloth that runs from one edge to the other in the same groove of cloth. Do this same thing to the other 3 sides and you will have a fold on each side that marks the edge of the mounting board on your cloth!

Place the stitchery face up on your mounting board and align the folds along the edges of the mounting board and start pinning in the middle of each side. Check the alignment, tautness of the cloth, and make any minor adjustments to tighten the cloth and get it centered. If you are careful to pull to the same thread on the edge of your mounting board as you pin, you should have the same thread running the complete length of each one of the sides of the mounting board. And your mounting should be straight as an arrow.

It is much better to see this technique but it is one of the easiest ways that I have found to align your stitchery on the mounting board.

If your customer insists on an even number of threads all the way around, you may want to try adding enough extra threads to the bottom of the stitchery when you do the marking with the pins to compensate for the width of the rabbet on the bottom of the frame. Or you could shim the bottom up with a strip of foamcore or a couple of matboard strips until the threads are even on the top and bottom.

Framerguy
 
Wow, Tom. You're the only other framer I know of who pins the corners first. (It must have something to do with not owning a television.)

I haven't tried your 'fold' method, but I will. Usually I just follow a thread in the cloth until I get to where the next corner should be. And I have a pair of 2X glasses from the drug store to wear when I'm stretching cross stich on linen.

Kit
 
Tom, I am printing out your instructions and will try them out.

When I do needlepoints, I pin the corners first and then begin to work my way around the needlepoint. If the corners are pinned exactly even on each corner, the needle point pops exactly square, even with no blocking.

Making the corners square on a cross stitch seems similar to to making the corners square on the needlepoint. It will help make the whole thing straight.

I am going to try all of your instructions..
 
I was afraid that this explanation would be misunderstood without photos to show what I was trying to explain.

I don't pin the corners first, Kit. When I start pinning the fabric to the backing board I start in the middle as I guess everyone else does. I am not sure where you got sidetracked.

Did you think that I did the layout from the corners? I do all the layout from the centers of the sides too. Those pins that I mark the edges of the mounting board are put in the centers of each side. Is this the point of confusion?

If not, post what you thought I was referring to and I will try to clear things up to mild mud instead of the "swamp look". ;)

Framerguy
 
Wow, Kit, I had no idea you were psychic!!

You posted that reply about pinning the corners 27 minutes before PP posted that SHE starts by pinning the corners!

I AM impressed.

FGII
 
Purp I may be misunderstanding you entirely but I think what you are worried about can't be correctly helped. I assume you realize that the mount board(Fom-core or whatever) needs to be square (Correct settings on your cutters). Further more the crostitch fabric ( Aida,Hardanger ,etc.) are all evenweave and as such if you align the weave with a perfectly square edge of your mount board the stitched surface has to be straight.
The problem comes from the fact that we should leave 1/8 of an inch allowance in the size of the opening at the rear of the frame and the Art Package ( Mount,and/or Mat and /or glazing).Since some evenweave fabrics can be 14-16-18-22 counts/inch and Liens can be even smaller 26-28and even 32 to the inch,then it is possible and highly likely that the mount will tilt slightly in this 1/8 void. If so the result will be that the weave will appear to be crooked in the front of the frame ,when in fact it is as straight as possible.
I have counted on the squareness of the mount board to align the weave along the edges of the board,as I am stretching/mounting . I have utilized Toms method and was actually taught this in one of those needlework classes I attened. The only faults with it are that all stistchers don't always give you enough surpluss fabric ( Sometimes even needing to add an extender)and when mounting older/more fragile fabrics this scoreing can weaken and even tear the fabric. I have seen some stitchers place a running stitch of an alternate color in it's place where there is enough good fabric.
So without a mat the weave may look slightly out of alignment with the front of the Frame opening but it actually is mounted straight as it can be if you are going to leave the standard 1/8 allowance needed to prevent buckling from wood swelling and other forms of expansion.
BUDDY
 
Buddy,

You are quite right in stating that the cloth can be damaged in scoring the folds. You need to use a light hand and a shallow angle when scoring. You don't need to crease the cloth like the crease in a good pair of pants, just enough to indicate where the edges are located.

I don't use this method all the time. On older stitchery I usually take a red thread and run about 3" of it along the center area of the thread that I want to mark. The initial marks are there for a guide only. Many times I have to make on the spot adjustments as I begin to pin the stitchery to the backing board. You just have to use some latitude with the mounting and make occasional adjustments as needed.

The 1/8" allowance in chopping is probably the root of PP's problem. But if you are off by 4 threads when you set the mounted stitchery in the frame, you can split the difference by using a mat board shim under the board in the rabbet to even up the number of stitches showing in the opening. Now the sides are another issue. I try to center the mounted stitchery in the opening laterally and hope that the customer doesn't thump the framed package hard on the side to throw it off. ;)

Framerguy
 
I guess that it shouldn't surprise anyone that I do this differently, but it still is easy, and comes out straight. I start by marking the center of my backing board, usually foamcore, in both directions. Then, I very lightly put a pencil mark on the very edge of the fabric at the centerline of the design, both vertically and horizontally. I then line up the marks on the top and bottom, and put in push pins to temporarily hold the cloth in place. Then, I do the same with the side marks. Next, take a quick look to see if everything is even. If not, make any adjustments. If it is, then push pin the corners. When I get the centers and corners push pinned, and every thing is straight there, then I begin with the straight or t-pins into the side of the foamcore, if I have enough fabric. If I don't have enough fabric, I take pliers, and insert the pins throught the top layer of the foamcore, again beginning at the centers, and working to the corners. I work across the top, from the center to the corners. Then, the bottom, from the center to the corners, then, then the sides in the same way. At the end, if there is excess fabric, I pull it to the back, fold, and tuck the corners, and usually either pin or use framers tape to hold it on the back. Then, all you have to do is pop it into the frame. Takes about 15 minutes.
 
Well, now I have printed the whole column and will read it more carefully at lunch tomorrow, when my brain will be functional.

I welcome even more responses.
 
These are the instructions I hand out to my stitchery customers.

NeedleArt Mounting

Do all measurements before starting. Then cut all supplies.

You will need:
Alphamat Artcare board or Acid Free Foam Board (mounting and window)
Acid Free Mats
Thin Acid Free Board (Backing)
Frame (Be sure the frame you choose is deep enough for the artwork package to fit.)
Second window (If stitchery is too thick, use mat board strips.)
Pearl head Pins
Stainless Steel Pins
Needle and Thread

CLEAN HANDS BEFORE STARTING !!!

1. Center fabric on mounting board. Count or measure fabric to be sure design is centered on board. If needed, use the mat or frame to check the centering.
2. Pin corners using the pearl head pins. Fabric may appear loose. Insert pins approximately ¼” away from each other. Watch fabric for waves along the pinned edge. If you see waves, you need to insert the pins closer together. When you get to the 3rd side, you should start to feel the fabric pull tight. The 4th side may be the hardest to pin.
3. After all 4 sides are pinned, check to see if the fabric is flat or rippled. If the fabric is rippled you will need to pull the fabric tighter and re-pin.
4. After the fabric is pinned and flat, check to see if there are any tails of thread showing through the fabric. If you see any, you can hide most tails by slipping a pin through the fabric and pushing the thread behind a stitched area.
5. Carefully, a few pins at a time, replace the pearl head pins with stainless steel pins and push them all the way in. The heads of the pins should rest tight against the edge of the mounting board.
6. Place the mounted piece face down on a clean surface. Using hospital corners on all 4 corners, fold the excess fabric to the back of the mounting board. Using needle and thread, stitch the corners down so the fabric will stay flat. If the piece is large, you may want to lace back and forth from side to side and from top to bottom.

I hope that you can use these instructions.
 
Sue May, I have not carried regular paper mats for quite some time, however many of those said acid free (buffered back) which could be confusing to some. I would replace the acid free mats with conservation or preservation quality if that is what you are refering to.
 
Cut a template and pin and sew with the template as a guide. You can probably get closer using this method as with most others. We always tell the client that if no mat board is used, the finished product will always look slightly uneven and to live with it.

Jack Cee
 
Must have missed something here. So you guys do not lace cross stitch. You always use pins - stainless steel - and leave then in. And you use tape across the back on the fabric?.
 
Less uses a very similar method as Tom.

Make sure your Artcare foam is square
Roughly center cross-stitch with SS pins
Pull tight
Count weave to exact center
Remove and lightly score all 4 sides
(I fold by hand and lightly burnish)
Re-center with pins in the middle of sides
Go immediately to corners and line up weave
Adjust middle pins if necessary
Then let them pins start a flyin
If the cross-stitch goes to frame -
Line frame with Lineco metal tape
Fold over excess and back with Artcare foam or 4ply.
No mat - use spacers
Not enough mat - shim if possible.
Sometimes, if I am worried about shooting points into the cross stitch, I will secure by taping and screwing 4ply to back of frame – no points.

Yes SS pins
No tape

[ 02-06-2003, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: lessafinger ]
 
John, I have laced cross stitches. Mostly on very old needlework and the customer and I have discussed it.

I use Osgood's instructions. I feel I do not put even tension the whole way around and need practice in the future to get everything even.

However, my frame shop does not support doing lacing on everything. We do use stainless steel pins.

I would love to go to a frame shop that does excellent lacing and spend a month, 5 days a week, 8 hours a day, learning the art.

There are other subjects I would like to do that with, too.

Our frame shop learned everything using the apprentice method with handed down information. Jan and I read everything we can get our hands on, including the Grumble. Marie would be open to changes that make sense to her.

We do almost everything as close to conservation as people will allow.

Others on this forum lace, too. My question was a request for pins.

[ 02-06-2003, 07:15 PM: Message edited by: PurplePerson ]
 
I lace or pin depending on the project and how much the customer is willing to spend. Lacing takes more time and costs considerably more. Needlepoint always gets laced. I also will use 8 ply rag or acid free foam, again, depending on the project and how much the customer is willing to spend. Working with 8 ply takes more time.
I found some pins for mounting years ago and they work much better than t-pins. Thye hold better. They are 1 3/8" long and u-shaped, about 3/8" wide. I don't know what they are called, but I think I found them in a hardware store, and I've sometimes seen them in fabric shops.
I cover the needlework with 4 ply rag before driving the points into the frame. You could tear the fabric if you don't do this, plus the points could leave rust stains at some future time. You should never put tape on a stitchery.
It might help if you cut a mat out of scrap and use it to align the threads.
 
I found some pins for mounting years ago and they work much better than t-pins. Thye hold better. They are 1 3/8" long and u-shaped, about 3/8" wide. I don't know what they are called, but I think I found them in a hardware store, and I've sometimes seen them in fabric shops.
Click to expand...
These are "greening pins" or "upolstry pins", depending on whether you get them from the flora dept or upolstry dept.
 
Thanks, Sue. Since I wasn't sure where to get them, I hold on to mine for dear life. I don't do upholstery (not even sure how to spell it), or floral stuff, I've haven't been looking in the right department.
 
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