Framerguy
PFG, Picture Framing God
In this thread we will cut the top mat, make spacers to lift the top mat and glass up and off the crochet work, and finish the framing. The top mat has already been sized to 31”x12” so let’s get started.
We are going to do a “cathedral cut” on the ends of this mat to make the transition from rectangular to curved. Most of your crocheted names will be done with fairly rounded ends. This name could have been matted by cutting straight cuts that approximate the angles of the ends of the name. I did a cathedral cut to show any of you who don’t know, how to lay it out.
We will begin on the reverse of the matboard. Keep in mind that my directions will be for cutting the ends on a Fletcher 1000 oval cutter. The same general directions will apply to most oval cutters.
First, we have to determine the initial settings for the oval cutter. On the Fletcher, we need a depth setting, (how far from the end of the matboard the center of the circular cut will be located), the diameter of the circular cut, and the circular offset (which will be “0” on the Fletcher). This illustration below will show how to determine the diameter of the circle we will cut to begin making the cathedral cut.
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The depth of the cut is determined by how wide the mat will be cut (2”) + the RADIUS of the circle mentioned above. The diameter of this circle is the width of the crocheted name (7”) + the margins on each side of the name (1/2“ on each side) = 8”. So the width of the mat + the radius of the circle to be cut = 6” (1/2 of 8” + 2” = 6”). So the center of our cathedral cut on each end will be in the center of the width of the matboard and 6” in from the end of the board.
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Once these 2 circular cuts are made at each end of the board, we need to establish the long cuts from one end to the other and an offset located at the end of the cathedral cut. I am using a ¼” offset and a 1 ¾” mat width on the long sides of the mat. Once you have mastered this method, you can determine the locations of the various cuts to give you a 1 ¾” mat width all around the name. (We have a 2” width on the ends of the cathedral cuts).
Place hash marks with a pencil on the edge of the circular cuts at the centerline of the circle (which is 6” for this mat). These hash marks are made to locate the offset of the long mat cuts. They are made at a right angle to the long side and 6” in from the ends of the mat.
Next, set your mat guide bar to 1 ¾” for the long cuts from end to end. The hash marks will be your stop marks for the cuts. Make these long cuts first.
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Then turn your mat on the cutter and make the short offset cuts. If all went well, you should have a very funny looking fallout and a finished cathedral corner mat opening!
<center>
</center>
We now have to make some spacers to raise the mat and glass up high enough to keep the glass off of the surface of the crochet. I use scrap artcare foamboard for these spacers. ATG these spacers to the back of the top mat and check for alignment. I make these spacers with beveled edges so they are not seen from the front.
<center>
</center>
Build your frame, cut your glass to dimensions, and assemble the package as usual. I will leave it at that as most of you know how to build a frame and put the package together. Finish the back with dust cover and hanging apparatus and you are done. I use small Frame Buddies for hanging these frames as most of them are very long compared to their width and FB”s keep them level on the wall better than wire.
<center>
</center>
Here is another example of a finished name with the large points along the border.
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</center>
I hope this has sparked your creative juices and you will be producing beautifully framed crocheted names by the dozens!
Good luck and post any questions you may have on this thread so I can try to answer them.
Framerguy
We are going to do a “cathedral cut” on the ends of this mat to make the transition from rectangular to curved. Most of your crocheted names will be done with fairly rounded ends. This name could have been matted by cutting straight cuts that approximate the angles of the ends of the name. I did a cathedral cut to show any of you who don’t know, how to lay it out.
We will begin on the reverse of the matboard. Keep in mind that my directions will be for cutting the ends on a Fletcher 1000 oval cutter. The same general directions will apply to most oval cutters.
First, we have to determine the initial settings for the oval cutter. On the Fletcher, we need a depth setting, (how far from the end of the matboard the center of the circular cut will be located), the diameter of the circular cut, and the circular offset (which will be “0” on the Fletcher). This illustration below will show how to determine the diameter of the circle we will cut to begin making the cathedral cut.
<center>

The depth of the cut is determined by how wide the mat will be cut (2”) + the RADIUS of the circle mentioned above. The diameter of this circle is the width of the crocheted name (7”) + the margins on each side of the name (1/2“ on each side) = 8”. So the width of the mat + the radius of the circle to be cut = 6” (1/2 of 8” + 2” = 6”). So the center of our cathedral cut on each end will be in the center of the width of the matboard and 6” in from the end of the board.
<center>

Once these 2 circular cuts are made at each end of the board, we need to establish the long cuts from one end to the other and an offset located at the end of the cathedral cut. I am using a ¼” offset and a 1 ¾” mat width on the long sides of the mat. Once you have mastered this method, you can determine the locations of the various cuts to give you a 1 ¾” mat width all around the name. (We have a 2” width on the ends of the cathedral cuts).
Place hash marks with a pencil on the edge of the circular cuts at the centerline of the circle (which is 6” for this mat). These hash marks are made to locate the offset of the long mat cuts. They are made at a right angle to the long side and 6” in from the ends of the mat.
Next, set your mat guide bar to 1 ¾” for the long cuts from end to end. The hash marks will be your stop marks for the cuts. Make these long cuts first.
<center>

Then turn your mat on the cutter and make the short offset cuts. If all went well, you should have a very funny looking fallout and a finished cathedral corner mat opening!
<center>

We now have to make some spacers to raise the mat and glass up high enough to keep the glass off of the surface of the crochet. I use scrap artcare foamboard for these spacers. ATG these spacers to the back of the top mat and check for alignment. I make these spacers with beveled edges so they are not seen from the front.
<center>

Build your frame, cut your glass to dimensions, and assemble the package as usual. I will leave it at that as most of you know how to build a frame and put the package together. Finish the back with dust cover and hanging apparatus and you are done. I use small Frame Buddies for hanging these frames as most of them are very long compared to their width and FB”s keep them level on the wall better than wire.
<center>

Here is another example of a finished name with the large points along the border.
<center>

I hope this has sparked your creative juices and you will be producing beautifully framed crocheted names by the dozens!
Good luck and post any questions you may have on this thread so I can try to answer them.
Framerguy