• Welcome to the largest and friendlest resource for picture framers! Please LOG IN or REGISTER a free account.
    Once logged in, you will be able to SEARCH our archives.
    Forget your password? Click here to RESET PASSWORD Trouble? Click the CONTACT US link.

Coroplast vs. archival coroplast

SusanG

SusanG

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jul 1, 1999
Posts
2,330
From
Holland, PA, USA
Is there any difference between the two products? I am thinking of using it as filler board. Does it have properties as archival Artcare corrogate? Regular white coroplast is easy to find around my area, but is that Archival Coroplast?

Susan
 
"Archival" has no coloring or UV filtering properties. Remember this product was made for the sign industry.

Indications are that the colored coroplast is perfectly fine. The coloring is apparently inert. This has been concluded because museums are using the colored coroplast for "long term" storage, therefore, we assume it must be ok.

It would be best to avoid the UV filtering properties I would say, because you just don't know what the chemical properties are. But, colored is fine.

It does NOT have any buffering properties such as the Zeolites found in Bainbridge's Artcare products. However, fluted polyproylene is inert and should be safe.

oh yes, "archival" coroplast is not a "true opaque white" it is "milky" see through almost. Essentially uncolored plastic.
 
Seems as if every local place that I called had white coroplast. These are places that I could pick-up from. I know that University products and Small Corp carries "archival," but I will have to pay a bit for shipping. I was hoping to be able to get it locally, but none of them had "archival" coroplast. Again, I just want this for a stronger backing board than fome core or archival corragate.
 
Susan,

Did you try the coroplast company (I forget their name, but a google should produce it)? They should be able to give you a local distributor in Philly area, and anyone worth their salt should be willing to sell you a 10 sheet case at worst. My Baltimore price for the archival stuff is about $16 per sheet, and according to my guy, the company has a busted pallet of it and so you should be able to buy any amount - probably get a better price than Smallcorp (plus you wouldn't have to pay freight). Does that make any sense?

That being said, the white stuff should be just fine, and it should run about $7 per sheet in 10 sheet cases. Not really a bad price in comparison to foamboard.

Joe
 
Originally posted by susang:
Is there any difference between the two products? I am thinking of using it as filler board.
Susan
Click to expand...
There is a difference as was previously stated.

But I am a bit confused as to what your intended use is going to be; in the above quote you state that "I am thinking of using it as a filler board." Then in a subsequent post you state, "I just want this for a stronger backing board than fome core or archival corragate."

If you want a filler board, coroplast is among the tops for inert filler boards at a rock bottom cost. I can't think of any other product that is readily available and costs so little that would serve the purpose intended for a filler board.

But, as a backing board directly behind artwork, I would have to disagree about using the regular coroplast and in some instances using the archival coroplast. The fluting could imprint a thin paper art piece and ruin its value even though it may be archival. Granted the fluting is marginal but who wants to take the chance of the fluted pattern showing through on a customers cherished Kinkade print??? :eek: And the UV factor needs to be clarified for preservation usage. It is commonly used to extend the life of regular coroplast for outdoor signs but the effect on artwork hasn't been studied to any great length as far as I know.

I think that coroplast has its place in the framing world but, as with each product we use, it may also have some limitations that should be addressed before using it for everything.

Framerguy
 
The archival grade leaves out additives, such as
UV inhibitors and antioxidants. They want to keep
the board as pure and simple as possible and will not even add colorants, like carbon which would be chemically benign. When such board is used for
outdoor signage, the additives are included to
protect it from sunlight and pollution. The anti-
oxidants are the only concern, since they might
leave the board, the UV inhibitors are too large
to come out. You pay more to get less, but you
know that archival grade is only polypropylene and
it should function well for many years, in the dark, behind the frame.


Hugh
 
Hey Philly Grumblers,

Do any of you get Archival Coroplast in the Philadelphia area? Plenty of places have regular but I am having a tough time getting the archival type.

Susan
 
I just got a piece that is framed with coroplast and tape as the only backing. Any suggestions on what to use to adher a decorative paper tag (about 3x5) to the back of this piece, directly onto the coroplast?

Jackie
 
Jackie,

Since you specified "decorative", I would suggest that ATG or regular white Framer's Tape would suffice for attaching that piece of paper, ATG if you don't want anything to show on the surface or Framer's Tape if it doesn't matter.

Framerguy
 
Most of the time the ATG will work fine, but some of the fluted polypropelene is very slick. if you have some of the 889 or 415 double sided tape used for clear film mounting, it might adhere a little better. Make sure you burnish it down.
 
You can always use a bit of sand paper on the coroplast to give it some extra tooth. Sand a little then atg then burnish. It can help with removing a bit of the slickness if the atg is not adhereing kwite so well.

PL
 
You can also use white Crafter's glue (eg, Aleene's Tacky Glue) to attach decorative or informational paper tags to the back of Coroplast --- the glue adheres quite well, remains flexible, & is acid-free though not acid-neutral.
 
As a footnote to my above data, prior to using the glue, wipe the area with isopropyl or denatured alcohol to remove any "factory/manufacturing" grime off the Coroplast for a better bond.
 
Back
Top