I've been really happy with CornerWeld. It's given me no reason to try another glue.
Glue time varies a lot by type of wood. Since I haven't bothered to test it lately so I can't say 100%, but I'm fairly certain that denser woods dry noticeably faster than more porous woods. We typically leave them in the clamps longer than necessary regardless, so that's why I can't say for sure! I have had certain frames fall apart on the way to the V-nailer if I really rushed it—under 10 minutes in the clamps. (We glue our frames in four clamps on a table to get the best possible corner, then nail it after the glue has dried enough to hold the frame solidly together. We're seeking perfection.)
Andrew
What clamps do you use? I've got a lot of clamps but don't use them much except in particularly troublesome cases.
I've been really happy with CornerWeld. It's given me no reason to try another glue.
Glue time varies a lot by type of wood. Since I haven't bothered to test it lately so I can't say 100%, but I'm fairly certain that denser woods dry noticeably faster than more porous woods.
(We glue our frames in four clamps on a table to get the best possible corner, then nail it after the glue has dried enough to hold the frame solidly together. We're seeking perfection.)
Andrew
Andrew, do you know if that clamp system is still available? that looks like a great set-up
Not to highjack the thread, but does anyone store their glue bottles upside down to keep the tip from drying out and clogging?
Andrew
It was bought by the Lenz Family generation before me, when I was a kid. I haven't seen anything like it for sale recently, but I haven't looked other than an unsuccefully Google search just now. It wouldn't be too hard to make, the yellow round blocks under the clamps are wood, the rest is mostly standard hardware store parts. It's a dense hard laminated plywood top maybe an inch thick and casters underneath for rotation.
It was bought by the Lenz Family generation before me, when I was a kid. I haven't seen anything like it for sale recently, but I haven't looked other than an unsuccefully Google search just now. It wouldn't be too hard to make, the yellow round blocks under the clamps are wood, the rest is mostly standard hardware store parts. It's a dense hard laminated plywood top maybe an inch thick and casters underneath for rotation.
When we got our V-nailer in the mid-'80s, at the recommendation of the Juhl-Pacific rep, we went to "glue and shoot" on the nailer (versus "glue, vice, then shoot") but while most of the frames were fine, others were off a bit. It drove a perfectionist like me crazy. After a few months, I dug the vices back out and we've been doing it that way for the last 30 years. More recently, one of my framers "knew better" and would glue and shoot while I wasn't around and sometimes I'd have to break the frames apart and we redo them. Super annoying. We works somewhere else now.
Not to highjack the thread, but does anyone store their glue bottles upside down to keep the tip from drying out and clogging?
Andrew
Not quite the same, but maybe this could be adapted to be used with clamps. http://www.rockler.com/frame-clamp-kit
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Thanks Andrew & Larry. I too am a perfectionist when it comes to my mitres. I have never seen the system you have Andrew and would purchase one if I could ever find one. Larry, I have had that system and I could never get it to tighten the joints properly. I glue and shoot now unless it is a shadow box moulding which I will put one side at a time in the clamp and glue and pin at the top and when the glue sets up will then underpin it. That 4 clamp system of Andrews looks perfect. Joe B
Can you send a picture of your clamp system?
I kept a pair of sash cramps . . . Clamping each one and waiting for a bond would just take too long.
10 minutes per frame (gluing time), 8 hours, that's 48 frames.
That's why we have four clamps. You can do the whole frame at once. 10 minutes per frame (gluing time), 8 hours, that's 48 frames. If shop is doing more than that per day, then you're typically talking production and perfection is not required.
PVA glues recommend a minimum of 30 minutes clamping... And I've rarely seen actuality coincide with theory.
Does anyone use this system and can send feedback?
In my experience, 15 minutes usually is long enough set-up time for gentle handling, such as removing from the clamps, removing glue residue, wiping a schmear of putty, and laying materials into the frame on a flat table....Maybe 30 minutes if you are planning to roughly handle it, but walking it to the V-nailer for nailing it's fine with far less.
I believe you're referring to set-up time, which is different than drying time. The glue bond in a typical miter joint should withstand low-stress handling after about 15 minutes of set-up, but that is still about three hours short of being dry and having full bond strength.Soft woods do take longer to dry, but still not more than 15 minutes typically.
What is a slide hammer?In the same sale I got a Morso slide hammer. I use that almost daily, but for stacked frames rather than corner joints.
What is a slide hammer?
Rick
We used to do occasional business with a small local company called "Strong Joint". They made "curved corner" and round frames, plus household ventilation registers and switch/outlet covers.makes for very strong joints.
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