Hi. A customer wants to mount a signed and numbered heavy art piece on top of a rag mat for color and to allow edges of paper to show. Then, there will be a double mat around the art allowing 1" of the rag mount board displayed. Are there any new and improved museum mount techniques for this type of mounting with a heavy art on paper? thx. s.
conservation mounting
- Thread starter suzy
- Start date
We're still using the tried-and-true method of floatmounting on an undersized backer of white ragboard (no color, so it can't transfer). Japanese paper hinges -- torn, not cut -- are placed along the top edge with fresh cooked starch paste. If anti-flap hinges are needed, they are placed low on the sides, loosely to allow free expansion/contraction.
Haven't heard of anything better. Faster and cheaper, yes, but not better.
Haven't heard of anything better. Faster and cheaper, yes, but not better.
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
When thick and heavy papers must be framed with
their edges exposed, traditional folded hinges
can fail and pull off the back of the sheet as
rough handling of the frame causes the sheet, with
the inerta that its weight imparts, to rock from
side to side. This problem can be addressed if
hinges are used that fold in two directions onto
the back of the sheet. Such hinges can be made
by taking two strips of Japanese tissue and bonding all but 1/4" of the paper.The unbonded
portion will form a band running along one edge. This bonding can be done with polyethylene and a household iron, or as was suggested in a class in Orlando, with dry mount tissue in the press. When the bonding is done, the hinges can be pasted to the back of the sheet with both of the unbonded portions of the hinge folded out. If the hinges are passed through the back mat or wrapped aroung a support board, as Jim suggested, the placement of the slits or size of the board will have to be adjusted to account for the position of the bonded part of the hinge, which will be further from the edge than normal.
Hugh
their edges exposed, traditional folded hinges
can fail and pull off the back of the sheet as
rough handling of the frame causes the sheet, with
the inerta that its weight imparts, to rock from
side to side. This problem can be addressed if
hinges are used that fold in two directions onto
the back of the sheet. Such hinges can be made
by taking two strips of Japanese tissue and bonding all but 1/4" of the paper.The unbonded
portion will form a band running along one edge. This bonding can be done with polyethylene and a household iron, or as was suggested in a class in Orlando, with dry mount tissue in the press. When the bonding is done, the hinges can be pasted to the back of the sheet with both of the unbonded portions of the hinge folded out. If the hinges are passed through the back mat or wrapped aroung a support board, as Jim suggested, the placement of the slits or size of the board will have to be adjusted to account for the position of the bonded part of the hinge, which will be further from the edge than normal.
Hugh
Shan Linde
True Grumbler
Basic suggestions- place hinges on the artwork in a two step process.
1. Turn art over on clean surface and position top and side hinges.
2.When they are dry (throughly) then turn art over to attach to mount board.
(after years of training framers I know this is generally missed and I can not tell from your post how much experience you have...)
Also, pass thru hinges could be used- it would require a precision when laying out the location for the pass thru 'slots'.
For an update or thorough review of tried and true hinge techniques check Decor published article on Oversize Float Hinges by yours truely or Picture Framing Mag. website for Hugh Phibbs' article regarding the same topic.
Both articles have pictures that will help to articulate the ideas. (thinking of Hughs hinging supplement)
Shan Linde CPF
1. Turn art over on clean surface and position top and side hinges.
2.When they are dry (throughly) then turn art over to attach to mount board.
(after years of training framers I know this is generally missed and I can not tell from your post how much experience you have...)
Also, pass thru hinges could be used- it would require a precision when laying out the location for the pass thru 'slots'.
For an update or thorough review of tried and true hinge techniques check Decor published article on Oversize Float Hinges by yours truely or Picture Framing Mag. website for Hugh Phibbs' article regarding the same topic.
Both articles have pictures that will help to articulate the ideas. (thinking of Hughs hinging supplement)
Shan Linde CPF
Hello Hugh
I am having trouble visualising your explanation. Can you exlain this another way?
I am having trouble visualising your explanation. Can you exlain this another way?
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Unfortunately, this format does not allow for
manual gesticulation so I can't wave my hands
and make pictures. If one envisions a hinge that
when seen in cross section looks not like an
inverted "V", but rather like a "T" with the
top of the T made of two strips of Japanese tissue
that fold out from a central stem, which is made
from the lower sections of those strips, bonded
together with drymount tissue or polyethylene and
heat. When the hinge is attached to the paper,
it is the top side of the T that is pasted to the
paper, while the stem is passed through the back
mat. The advantage of this design is its ability
to resist peeling as the heavy paper moves during
handling of the frame. Ordinary hinges tend to
loosen as the sheet travels back and forth. The
simlpest way envision this design is to take a
strip of Japanese tissue 6"/15cm long and fold
it at the 3"/7.5 point so it is doubled. At the
unfolded end, fold each of the edges out 1/4"/.5cm so that an elongated "T" (seen from the
side) results. I hope that this is somewhat clearer.
Hugh
manual gesticulation so I can't wave my hands
and make pictures. If one envisions a hinge that
when seen in cross section looks not like an
inverted "V", but rather like a "T" with the
top of the T made of two strips of Japanese tissue
that fold out from a central stem, which is made
from the lower sections of those strips, bonded
together with drymount tissue or polyethylene and
heat. When the hinge is attached to the paper,
it is the top side of the T that is pasted to the
paper, while the stem is passed through the back
mat. The advantage of this design is its ability
to resist peeling as the heavy paper moves during
handling of the frame. Ordinary hinges tend to
loosen as the sheet travels back and forth. The
simlpest way envision this design is to take a
strip of Japanese tissue 6"/15cm long and fold
it at the 3"/7.5 point so it is doubled. At the
unfolded end, fold each of the edges out 1/4"/.5cm so that an elongated "T" (seen from the
side) results. I hope that this is somewhat clearer.
Hugh