"Confetti" line chipping issue

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cjmst3k

cjmst3k

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Apr 25, 2006
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I have Confetti as my budget line frames, so it's been popular. We're currently cutting about 15 pieces, and almost all of them are having a chipping issue in the lower back corner. Last week I changed the 12" saw blades, so those are perfectly sharp, and I inserted my last Pistorius phenolic fence block to get the best cutting... and still this chipping occurs.

Is this a moulding-specific issue that everyone is having a problem with, or just me? (mostly with the black version, but having recently cut the red one, we had the same problem.
 
While I don't use that moulding much, I know exactly what your issue is.

The back fence support helps, but is only one area of issue. On my EMN-14 I removed the aluminum support and replaced it with a block of 3 2x4s capped with a hardwood board that fit the entire space between the steel. It is only extends out 1 1/2" into the cut area, but it makes all the difference in the world when it comes to the bottom corner chipping out.

Today is my day off, but I will try to remember to shoot a photo for you tomorrow.
 
FrameMakers said:
While I don't use that moulding much, I know exactly what your issue is.

The back fence support helps, but is only one area of issue. On my EMN-14 I removed the aluminum support and replaced it with a block of 3 2x4s capped with a hardwood board that fit the entire space between the steel. It is only extends out 1 1/2" into the cut area, but it makes all the difference in the world when it comes to the bottom corner chipping out.

Today is my day off, but I will try to remember to shoot a photo for you tomorrow.
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...a photo or drawing would help SO much!

I think I know what you're referring to, that aluminum thing which holds the cut-out from falling until the blades are raised. You're saying that a wider one keeps the cut away from falling too early or something? If so, wouldn't the cut away also hit the blades on the way up, and possibly be projected?
 
Been a long time since I looked at confetti but here is a question. Is the bottom back edge of the lumber beveled under the gesso. This is a design issue I see with some of the basic gessoed mouldings floating around. Look at a cut end and see if the lumber under the gesso runs straight to the bottom or if it slants in at the bottom. If it slants toss the samples in the trash.
 
My saw is fully enclosed so any projectile is not an issue. I would say they happen as often as they did before, rarely. The real issue is on the outside of the blades. If the corner is fully supported on the back and bottom then there is much less chance for the moulding to chip out.
 
FrameMakers said:
My saw is fully enclosed so any projectile is not an issue. I would say they happen as often as they did before, rarely. The real issue is on the outside of the blades. If the corner is fully supported on the back and bottom then there is much less chance for the moulding to chip out.
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I think we have the same orange and white Pistorius saw except with 12" blades. The aluminum piece seems to support pretty well, but it leaves enough unbalance that the piece falls once the blades are lifted, but I'm very curious to see what you've done and how you've done it. ...though I'm reluctant to "mess with" my Pistorius too much, as they're not around anymore for me to order new parts I might mess up.
 
It's why it's called confetti.....

I do have some colors that seem to be more chippy than others; hardly have it with the blue colors but black and red do chip more.
I had more problems with it in the past; seems not so much lately. Like you; I use it when price is a concern.
 
Here, too! The teal was bad. We use a chopper. AJ tapes the edges with masking tape before chopping. That helps.
 
The beauty of what I came up with is that it just screws on using the existing holes. Nothing is done to the saw that can't be undone with a screwdriver. It also only costs about $5.
 
FrameMakers said:
The beauty of what I came up with is that it just screws on using the existing holes. Nothing is done to the saw that can't be undone with a screwdriver. It also only costs about $5.
Click to expand...

Sweet - I can't wait to see this!

BTW - I found a way that dramatically helps. Using my Pistorius I take about 30 seconds per cut. It takes a LOT of patience and a steady foot, but it results in a pretty straight cut. Not the best solution long-term, but a solution for the day.

Hey, Jeff, what IM black mouldings have you worked with that might be a good addition to a budget line that don't chip much? (Ones around 1-washington-bill per foot)
 
305-510 is the bomb to cut and join, 300-445, 460-55, 480-20, 300-870

I don't like totally flat or less than 1" so I don't buy it. I try to avoid the stuff that looks like the plastic that competitors sell. Buy stuff that does not have a totally square backside since it doesn't chip as much. You will see in their line that they don't have a ton of the squared off profiles so they don't have to listen to whining or have cutting issues at their facilities.
 
Chris, the Pistorius has a main cylinder that has a thumbscrew on it. Turning it clockwise should slow the rate the saw blades drop so you don't have to play with the foot peddle.

Another thing to check is that both blades are dropping in unison. Take a large square profile moulding and cut 1/2 way through. Look at the lowest part of the cut. It they aren't exactly in line, then one blade is dropping faster. This will cause the uncut side to "kick out" and tear the back corner.

The linkage can be adjusted to make the blades drop evenly.
 
Yes Mark, that can be a part of the issue too. I have found though that you still will get the bottom corner chip out even if both blades are not in contact with the moulding like when you make your first cut on a stick.
 
If you scraped off the plaster/gesso coatings and were left with the bare wood underneath, there probably wouldn't be a problem.

If there was no wood - the whole moulding was solid plaster/gesso of the same type as the coating, you wouldn't be buying it.

Your chopper/saw wasn't designed for it, so adapt or toss the sample off your wall.
 
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