Framerguy
PFG, Picture Framing God
I wonder how many of you have had clients come in with collector plates that they wanted framed?
I have framed about 400 or these little gems and I thought I would pass along some of my ideas for framing them fast with an eye for design and a very unique final appearance. Wild Wings frames these "ain't"!
First of all, I try to plan ahead every step in the cutting process for the mats because some of my designs have rings or floating pieces that have to be cut out of the opening prior to the opening actually being cut (doesn't that put a few lumps in the mashed potatoes?)
Here is a simple plate frame which shows what can be done at minimum to enhance the looks of an otherwise so-so collectible.
The back of most collector plates has all the information about the plate so I show the back through the backing board and dust cover as seen below.
Here are a few single plates that are done basically the same way as the first one.
This one is a basic octagon frame with a floating ring inset around the plate. It was done in black suede so there isn't much detail in this poor photo. By lengthening 2 of the sides, (either vertically or horizontally, you can create a multiple plate frame for as many as 4 or 5 plates.)
This one was more difficult to cut. The floating rings had to be cut before the final opening in each matboard. Alot of planning goes into these more advanced framings.
The next photo shows the depth of the shadowbox and how each element is stacked in the display.
Another simple plate showing how the plate is down in the depths of the shadowbox.
Details:
Mats are cut as needed but some cuts have to be made before others to get the parts of the design to come out before it is too late to cut them. The floating rings around some of the plates have to be cut first before the large opening and the spacers also are cut while the settings are there.
Attaching the plates was something of a chore for me. I contacted the AIC when I started doing these and explained how I wanted to build these shadowboxes and they recommended using silicone adhesive to attach the plates to the rear backing board. It doesn't harden and it can be removed without harming the glazing on the plates. Trying to chip hardened glue off of a plate would surely do damage to the surface of the plate.
I will post another thread showing multiple plate framings. I would reallly like some feedback on these plates as I have done them here in a rather isolated area and really don't know how others are doing plates.
Framerguy
I have framed about 400 or these little gems and I thought I would pass along some of my ideas for framing them fast with an eye for design and a very unique final appearance. Wild Wings frames these "ain't"!
First of all, I try to plan ahead every step in the cutting process for the mats because some of my designs have rings or floating pieces that have to be cut out of the opening prior to the opening actually being cut (doesn't that put a few lumps in the mashed potatoes?)

Here is a simple plate frame which shows what can be done at minimum to enhance the looks of an otherwise so-so collectible.

The back of most collector plates has all the information about the plate so I show the back through the backing board and dust cover as seen below.

Here are a few single plates that are done basically the same way as the first one.
This one is a basic octagon frame with a floating ring inset around the plate. It was done in black suede so there isn't much detail in this poor photo. By lengthening 2 of the sides, (either vertically or horizontally, you can create a multiple plate frame for as many as 4 or 5 plates.)

This one was more difficult to cut. The floating rings had to be cut before the final opening in each matboard. Alot of planning goes into these more advanced framings.

The next photo shows the depth of the shadowbox and how each element is stacked in the display.

Another simple plate showing how the plate is down in the depths of the shadowbox.

Details:
Mats are cut as needed but some cuts have to be made before others to get the parts of the design to come out before it is too late to cut them. The floating rings around some of the plates have to be cut first before the large opening and the spacers also are cut while the settings are there.
Attaching the plates was something of a chore for me. I contacted the AIC when I started doing these and explained how I wanted to build these shadowboxes and they recommended using silicone adhesive to attach the plates to the rear backing board. It doesn't harden and it can be removed without harming the glazing on the plates. Trying to chip hardened glue off of a plate would surely do damage to the surface of the plate.
I will post another thread showing multiple plate framings. I would reallly like some feedback on these plates as I have done them here in a rather isolated area and really don't know how others are doing plates.
Framerguy