chopper problems

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I

ice

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Apr 22, 2005
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My Morso is getting stuck on the second cut of any size moulding. it Doesn't go through the wood and then gets stuck in the wood. Is this because the blades need sharpening. Someone told me I might just want to WD40 the blades because it has been sitting for a little. Any advice?
 
Sounds like they need to be sharpened to me! The moulding may be a hard wood on top of your blades being dull... unless you have a piece of moulding stuck in the way some where... you may want to inspect all over for little pieces of moulding that have been chopped... sometimes they get in the way and make it hard to go down like that.
 
Had similar problem and sharpening seem to solve problem with blades sticking, sometime there is a small bur on blades that causes the problem. I have my blades sharpen at Tech Mark, They are now selling a neat wood box to store blades in.

www.tech-mark.com

kw
 
Remove the blades and clean them off with fine steel wool and wd40. You may have someoxidation on them.
Then take the opportunity to thoroughly clean and lubricate all your moving parts, adjust the plunge depth and square your gates.
When replacing the blades make sure theysquare up at the very front corner of the blades then tighten each opposing bolt one at a time so that the blades don't get out of alignment as you tighten.
Its also possible to have blades that have been sharpened a few too many times.In that case, buy new blades.
 
I have another set of blades that have just been sharpened. Maybe I should swap those out first. The first cut with the blades that are on the chopper is clean and goes right through which is strange unless the oxidation/dullness/bur is more toward the middle of the blade which would explain why the first cut is fine but the second one is not.
 
Blades probably need sharpening, but it sounds like you’re trying to take too big a chunk out of the moulding. Try taking smaller “nibbles” i.e. take 6 or more cuts rather just one or two. After each cut, back out the blade a little to reduce the likelihood of binding.
 
The moulding I was using was about one inch. I took an initial cut and then the second one got stuck. I've used a chopper before and moulding this size doesn't usually require more than two chops.
 
moulding this size doesn't usually
doesn't usually require more than two chops
Click to expand...
It depends on the hardness of the moulding ... for example a real hard oak of this size will need to be nibbled one bite at a time
 
Oh I love it when those Californian framers start talking naughty. I see you're gonna have that nasty weather again today. :D Huntington is supposed to be running 3-5.

Change the blades Ice.
 
"Shell" mouldings are the hardest on blades.

Paint is second.

Most shells are made with stone dust and therefore you are slicing a soft stone. Which is also how you sharpen very hard steels...

Paint is abrasive just because of the cystaline structure.

The fastest way to dull a set of freshly sharpend planer blades is to throw tow boards with old latex paint on the faces.... You're blades will be to dull to cut even you skin. It takes about 25 seconds and costs $16 to resharpen. Don't ask.
 
Originally posted by ice:
yeah - i will swap em out. the moulding was 3/4 " arquati - it didn't seem too hard but who knows.
Click to expand...
yuck... i hate chopping arquati mouldings.

It's a good thing most of them are pretty!

Did you figure it out yet ice?
 
why do you hate chopping arquati? I'm actually not in my shop - I do it part-time so I haven't tried swapping out the blades yet.

Next I have to chop some of the new framerica stainless steel/wood moulding. It has a stainless veneer - have you seen them?
 
Arquati has the worst shell behind LM.

I think you will be very surprised how that "stainless steel" cuts.
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