Question Chopper blades

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Puppiesonacid

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Mar 10, 2008
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I was thinking and wondering if those of you that have still use a chopper like i do, if there was a way to increase the length blades last before you have to replace them with a fresh sharpened pair? Like any kind of oil, or kind of cleaning you may do with them.

something that wouldn't harm moulding.

thanks
 
If you have your blades hollow ground

HollowGround.jpg


you might try having them honed next time as a chisel ground

ChiselGround.jpg


Through a mistake of mine, I neglected to specify hollow ground once and the sharpening company I used returned them with a chisel cut. Initially I was very upset, but I couldn’t notice the difference except that they seemed to last longer before they needed to be sharpened again.

Theoretically, hollow ground blades are sharper initially, but after a very small number of cuts, since the leading edge is thinner, it “rolls over” (burrs) and becomes dull more quickly especially if your are cutting hard woods such as oak or maple.
 
When I only had two sets of blades I noted that one set was like an Energizer and would last forever. The other set was only good for about 20 frames. I'm convinced that some blades just don't last long and others do.

It will be interesting to see if anybody has any tips for prolonging the sharpness becuase I've never heard of anything.
 
I have had my blades hollow ground. i will try the chisel cut. in fact i am waiting for my blade sharpener guy to come by next week, and will mention that to him.

i think i noticed the same thing, but just never thought about it about how they are sharper at first with hollow but dull quicker.

and Jay you may be right about type of blades. if anyone knows where to get THE BEST blades let me know.
 
Blades are a dance. Most are HS-4 (high speed steel) the 4 is a designation of the recipe of tungsten, chromium, molybdenum and cobalt. Many of the older blades were "tempered" by batch (heated in an oven to a certain degree then quenched in mass) which "in theory" gives you a hard blade. BUT, if the blade for some reason didn't reach the right temp, or was late getting the quench and cooled to much, the "hardness" is not obtained. This results in a "soft" blade that dull rapidly, wears quickly but also sharpens easily.

IF you're having sharpening done by a competent grinding house, ask that they test the hardness. At a certain level of anneal they aren't worth owning.

Most new blades are now what is called "Laser hardened" and are individually heated by a laser evenly and to a perfect temp, then walked through the tempering stage and quenched at the peak range. These blades give a noticeable difference in longevity.

One thing to note: 1) there are more than one mfg of chopper blades. 2) anyone who makes a suggestion of a non-industry supply source for blades, historically, has been stoned at the stake and marginalized. So, don't be surprised if you find that other than the OEM.... you're on your own.

For my 2 farthings.... I'll stick with my local guy. His blades come with the Rockwell hardness labeled on blades, and ONLY flat grinds. IF you think we have blades..... try 14' long peeling blades for turning logs into plys for plywood at 400mph, or 7' shearing blades for the paper mills. Now, those are blades.... and not one is ever hollow ground. But then, that is a whole different argument.
 
I don't think there's much you can do to increase longevity. Except maybe only offer soft moulding and finishes that don't chip easily.

The only thing I have wondered about is...will my blades last longer if I make lots of dainty little cuts, instead of just stomping my way through caveman style? I am sure there are opinions on this.

Recently bought two new sets of Morso blades. Out of the box they lasted seemingly forever.

They were reground to flat by an excellent sharpening service that charges a premium for hollow. They still last forever. My old sets are now labeled "emergency only."
 
More so..... just grind off the edges, round off the corners . . . the holes are already drilled.. you can use the old ones for surf fishing. The casting range has got to be great with that kind of weight. :D
 
And nails imbedded in those old frames your customers want you to chop down for them can kill a new set of blades in one fell swoop. First they ask why you don't like chopping down old frames then they balk when you try to charge them for a new set of blades.

I don't try to squeak extra mileage out of mat blades than they are willing to give and the same with my chopper blades ;)
 
I loused up one of my Morsø blades a few years ago by cutting a customer’s moulding that still had a hidden brad embedded in it.

After that, I bought a cheapo magnetic “stud finder” for about three bucks (you know, the one where the needle ‘jumps’ at attention when it sees a nail?). I run this stud finder along the broken miter each and every time I am asked to cut and rejoin a flea–market frame.

That little stud finder has saved more than a few sets of blades for us.
 
Baer Charlton said:
More so..... just grind off the edges, round off the corners . . . the holes are already drilled.. you can use the old ones for surf fishing. The casting range has got to be great with that kind of weight. :D
Click to expand...

Those surfing casts would have to be about 800 miles long from where I am, but I figure 4 or 5 of those old Morso sets strung together on a chain would make a pretty nice boat anchor down on the Rio Grande.
 
The Rio?? Oh heck just leave the edge on to cut through the swimmers....

Ok, sorry but the redneck gene just slipped out.

Actually, I wonder what kind of plow shears they would make.
 
..tried using them for boat anchor, dropped on the boat floor, big hole....boat sank....cut 3 big bass in half on way to the bottom as the anchor preceeded the boat by about 10 ft......
 
Baer Charlton said:
Actually, I wonder what kind of plow shears they would make.
Click to expand...

Should they be beaten first?

Have never once seen a person in the water on the Rio Grande.

Three big pre-sliced bass would be a reasonable trade out for my boat!
 
Most of the Rio I've been around, you could walk across..... well, OK.. wade.

but it was never a question of Row vs Wade. :D
 
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