Chipped Corners

Create a Post
J

Jana

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Aug 12, 2000
Posts
2,396
Loc
Mansfield, Ohio
Hi Grumblers, I need your advice. I've gotten so many good hints from this forum that I'm tossing this one out for suggestions.

What's the best way to prevent compo corners on frames from chipping when chopping length? Some mouldings are worse than others.

Also, when we order chops, many times the corners (edges) are pre-chipped. I know about using putty to repair them, but that stuff never dries and eventually shrinks up. Is wood putty (and paint) a good alternative? What's the very best way to make the corners good as new? Cheryl once mentioned gesso and gold leaf on a fillet thread. I don't know how to use those materials.



[This message has been edited by Jana (edited November 14, 2001).]
 
Hi Jana,

When you say "chopped" moulding, does this mean you are using a chopper? If so, here's some suggestions:

1) Use a saw! You'll probably NEVER get as good a cut on heavily gesso'd or compo'd mouldings when using a chopper. And this comes from a guy who LOVES his chopper. I would cut everything on it if I could!

2) Fix a small sliver of hardwood into the gap in the fence where the edge of the blades come through, making it flush with the fence. The blades will cut right into this and create no gaps between the blades and the fence and thus support the back edge of the moulding better. You can use epoxy to glue ONE side of this piece of wood to ONE side of the fence, this allows you to still adjust the angle on the fence.

3) Use a piece of masking tape on the back edge of the moulding where the blades come through. BE VERY CAREFUL! Many finishes will pull right off when you remove the tape! Test it first.

4) Change your blades more often.

5) Use a SAW!!!


Hope that helps!

Duane Buck, CPF
The Frame Shop & Gallery
San Ramon, CA
 
For repair of chipped corners, try Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. Should be available at hardware stores, mixes with water, lasts in powder form forever, dries in 5 minutes, sticks to nearly everything, can be wet or dry sanded, takes any kind of paint finish. And no, I don't own stock in the company, wish I did!
 
Finally got a chopper about 4 months ago. Same problem. Glad you asked the question. I started using Duanes idea last week with the saw, works great. Love the chopper,though. Don't know why I waited so long.
 
Jana,
Once that Rock Hard Putty is dry and sanded, it's pretty hard to beat Rub 'N Buff to finish those corners off. It comes in a good variety of tones, mostly metallic and can be blended to recreate other finishes. It's very easy to work with, dries quickly and can be applied with a q-tip or with your finger (though they'll start calling you Goldfinger.) Once dry, you can buff it with a soft cloth to achieve the look you want (hence the name.) You can get it at your favorite craft store, though you may have to hunt to find the dozen or so finishes that are made.
 
I have a beef with Rub'nBuff: it dries out incredibly fast. I've tried every method known to woman (that means more than most guys know
wink.gif
) to prevent its desiccation. If you have any tips, I'd appreciate knowing of them, although I'll understand if you don't wish to assist one who has the temerity to spit into the wind when seeking aid.
smile.gif
 
I've always liked Treasure Gold better than Rub n Buff, but it's sometimes harder to find. It comes in a little jar and when it begins to dry out, just add a drop or two of mineral spirits to revive. That actually works for rub n buff too, but it's a bear to get the drops into the tube!

Betty
 
On those rare times we order chop, it's from LJ or Roma. If they're defective, they get returned and we don't pay the bill.

Period.

If we're chopping, use a saw as others have suggested.

For minor corner repairs, we use Liberon's Gilt Cream. From United, I think; it's oil /turpentine based and the box has several colors of silver and gold and bronze. You can mix it for various color hues. this goes on top of the wood putty or Plastic Wood.

using this stuff for over three years and wouldn't be without it.

------------------
Michael LeCompte CPF
 
I gave up on Treasure gold a long time ago, it should be called "Rock Hard Treasure Gold" and Rub'n'Buff is just as bad. I have been known to cut open the tubes, pry out the contents into a film cannister, and then use a solvent (even lighter fluid, in a pinch) to reconstitute. I have tried zip locks and even Tupperware to store the tubes to no avail.

Acrylic paint (especially irridescent bronze, irridescent gold and interference gold) is my "schmoo" of choice. And Liquitex in PLASTIC tubes can last nearly forever!
 
Liberon's Gilt Cream. From United. Liberon also has some beeswax gilt sticks that work great.

They also have a natural white creamy color that work perfect on giving you the perfect corner look. It blend the miter and in many cases makes the miter line disappear. It won't help a bad corner, just a good corner better.

framer
 
I can vouch for the Liberon products. I was introduced to them probably 10 years ago by Roger Nielsen in a worksop dealing with the alteration of moulding finishes.

The gilt creams are wonderful. The colors gleam almost as bright as leaf. You can mix them to tone them down and get just the color you need. Great for ornates that refuse to match up.

You can build up layers, and it dries rock hard. It also dries up in the jar in a couple of years, so just put a little solvent (I forget what the solvent is, turp?) in the jar if it starts getting too hard. You can use it down to the last drop this way. They might seem expensive, but remember, you can use all of it,unlike rub'n buff.

The only downside is that they recommend 24 (I think) hours to cure. So, do your touch up in the morning, and come back the next morning and fit up.

I think I recall a recent article in Decor or PFM about Liberon products. Haven't read it yet.

JO
 
For all the many years I have been framing, I have used a miter-sander. Just cut length a little longer, or order the chops a little bigger. Just grind those chips right off. Some framers love miter-sanders, some don't(we discussed this piece of equipment in another thread). My corners are always perfect, so I am a miter-sander lover.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PAMELA DESIMONE,CPF:
My corners are always perfect, so I am a miter-sander lover.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Pamela,
What type of sander do you use? I asked the question on HH'ers about perfect corners and miter-sanders where by far the most recommended. If you don't mind answering, where did you purchase it and how much did you pay? It seems like the prices that United has for these is way high. I've considered a disk sander from Sears or something, but was concerned with how accurate the 45 degree miter would be. I want to go this route, because even with my Pistorius and fresh blades I still get chips on the corners. I WANT IT TO STOP!!!!!

Jerry
 
Jerry,

The one she is probably talking about, and the one I use, is the ITW AMP mitre sander. This is one of the best pieces of equipment you could own. It's built like a tank and the angle is micro-adjustable. It is pricey, over $400.00, but well worth it's weight (literally). United generally has good prices, comparitively, on ITW AMP equipment.

The problem with some of the power disk sanders (the ITW AMP is a hand crank!) is they run too fast and you have the possibility of glazing the face of the mitres, and then they won't accept glue very well.

A word of caution! If you're expecting this machine to sand out chips and fix severely out of true mitres, you're in for a pretty good workout! You'll definitely feel it in your upper arms and shoulders! You're much better off sharpening your blades more often!

If you're having problems with your Pistorius, try the Astra blade from Everlast. They're made specifically for this application and they're gauranteed to work to your satisfaction. www.everlastsaw.com

------------------
Duane Buck, CPF
The Frame Shop & Gallery
San Ramon, CA

[This message has been edited by DGBuck (edited November 17, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by DGBuck (edited November 17, 2001).]
 
Jerry,

I'll second Duane's comments regarding the ITW-Amp Sander. It's worth it's weight in headaches, or lack of. It is great for trueing up chops purchased that are half bubble off 45 & half bubble off vertical.

Regarding sawblades, though you may have gone through everything....

My local sharpening service "did me a favor" once and sharpened my blade to his "textbook" specs. That was a big mistake. I obtained a copy of the manufacturer's engineering drawing for my blade, took it to the sharpener and had him put everything back to original spec and it surely makes a difference. He had really changed the angle & depth of every tooth on the blade.

Now he has a 600 grit diamond that is only used for my blade.

He checks every tooth for burrs on the sides after sharpening. Once, the blade was sharp but a couple of teeth with burrs were chipping some mouldings.

Be cautious about using 3rd party blades. Engineering might be close but not exactly the same as original manufacturer. I had that problem with a reputable blade supplier, but they would not tell me the specs or guarantee that it met original manufacturer spec.... only that the blade was designed for my saw. The blades were sharp, but did not cut like an original blade.

Rick
 
The truth about my miter-sander. I bought it from Grizzly Products (they have a web-site) for about $130.00. My father adapted it for my use. The current sander I have is about the fourth in a series he has built, so he has become an expert at it. The newest one uses a 12" disc, which is great for wide mouldings. I am not familiar with the ones built specifically for the framing industry, but my father is. He tells me mine is better.
 
Everyone is correct on the AMP sander. This equipment will last you a life time. Barton makes a great electric one as well but the comment on speed is right on the money. You need to just barely touch the corner to get it clean. I have heard that Craftsman (Sears) now has an adjustable mitre sander that works great. Keep in mind you can use these on metals and plastics as well.

John
 
Create a Post
Back
Top