Carpet on moulding wall loose in places

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Sherry Lee

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Jun 25, 2002
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Phoenix, Az.
A couple of years ago we had a long wall prepped with wood, then carpet glue in which ultimately the carpet was placed for the moulding samples. Now there are three areas in which the carpet is loose and pulls away when mouldings are removed.

If any of you have experienced this, how were you able to fix it? I thought perhaps the ROCAMA ST50 Tacker would work, but it doesn't go deep enough into the wood. A regular staple would just pull out over time.

Thank you for any and all input!!
 
I had carpeting professionally installed on all of my walls a couple of locations ago and had the same problem.

My solution was to have the building torn down and a new performing arts center built on the site.

The installers suggested a less drastic solution, which I never tried. They wanted me to use a big syringe to inject adhesive through the carpet at the loose spots. I guess I would then apply pressure at the site by leaning on the wall for several hours while the adhesive dried.
 
We've had this exact same problem and used a staple gun, and the staples completely disappeared into the carpeting. In fact, we tore all the mouldings down and put a staple every 3 inches - JUST IN CASE.

I guess it depends on the type of material/carpeting. Ours is a cheap commercial carpeting with tight loops, so the staples settled down between the loops.

Mike
 
The syringe suggestion works great to get behind wallpaper so it should work behind the carpet. I am constantly shooting staples into new loose places; all seem to be holding.
 
I noticed a major difference in the sticking power of raw wood and primed drywall. I have never had any problem with raw wood (plywood and particle board) while the primed drywall has had many areas give way. I used standard Velcro® style fabric as sold by United and others. The adhesive was a liberal application of PVA applied with a roller. When I get around to redoing the backs I will first apply the fabric to luan and then attach the panels to the old drywall with screws.
 
When our carpet wall was installed, the guy warned me that within a few days I should install a brass carpet strip (the metal thingie that one has at home that signals the junction of carpet and floor and keeps you from tripping on the exposed end of the carpet – make sense?).

It took me a month to get around to it. In the mean time the top edge of the carpet began to separate. Apparently the weight of the carpet and the corner samples is enough to pull the carpet from the wall, air gets in and loosens the adhesive bond.

When I finally installed those brass strips, any additional pulling away has stopped.

You can get those brass strips at Home Depot or most hardware stores, I would think. They come in ten foot lengths and are supplied with “decorative” screw/nails. They are a cinch to install with a hammer.
 
We have had the same problem. Just keep stapling... wish I had known of the solution Bill mentioned above... that would probably have helped - ALOT! Meantime - it's a continuing problem.

Stapling away!

Roz
 
BILL:

I'm assuming that these brass strips run vertically. AND I take it that IF they do, how far apart do you have each placed, and do they run between the mouldings, or under them?

Personally, I would like it if they didn't show.

Thanks to all for sending 'aid'! I may inject some glue in the worst spots, staple if need be, but for sure apply these strips in hope to put an end to the problem!
 
Had the same problem too. When I moved just for fun, I tried to remove the carpet - it came right off! :eek: The glue stuck to the wall fine, it was the carpet that did not take. Maybe some are better than others.
 
We initially used carpeting when we designed the shop, but with the last renovations (added more samples/walls) we used the felt material from United and glued it on. United sells the special glue that is heat re-activated, and it holds VERY well.

We also used this material and glue on some "spinners" we built a year ago, and it has held up fine.

The stapling problem caused the change of plans, as well as a concern for fire safety. Putting carpets on the walls is a serious fire code violation in some areas. After the night club fire in our state, they are *EXTREMELY* cautious with commercial fire safety. Even though our small shop has sprinklers and an alarm company monitored fire alarm, they made us install a commercial fire alarm system panel and pull boxes/strobes/sirens at all 3 exits.
 
Sherry Lee,

The “carpet strips” come in a variety of shapes. The one I settled on is shaped sort of like this:

CarpetStrips.gif


This image is not to scale or even close, but the width of the strip is about 1-1/4” wide, comes in 10 foot lengths and made of aluminum (although it has a brass finish) – not altogether unattractive. Pre-drilled holes for the nails that are supplied with it are approximately 6” apart. The nails go in the wall rather than through the carpet. They are meant to cover and hold down the carpet so they are, indeed, visible.

But is does need to cover the entire edge of the carpet to keep the carpet from lifting from the wall i.e. you do need to run the strips over the entire perimeter of the carpet. Since it is made of aluminum it is easy to cut with your miter saw.
 
When I get around to redoing the backs I will first apply the fabric to luan and then attach the panels to the old drywall with screws.

My walls are like this also......they have been around for 6-8 years (got these with all my equipment) and there is no way that carpet is coming off...it is a level loop and looks as good now as it did when my Dad first did them for the previous owner of the equipment.
 
When we hung carpeting on the walls for the moulding display, we attached it with "formica" contact cement. The same stuff that is used for countertops. Just roll it on the wall & the back of the carpeting, let it set-up for a few minutes and attach. No nails, staples, strips or anything else was needed to hold it in place. When we remodeled (10 years later) it took two men & a boy to remove it from the wall - it would have been easier to knock the wall down!

Cautionary note: If you use the "formica" glue, make sure you have plenty of ventilation!!!
 
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