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Vermont Hardwoods solid wood picture frame molding

Canvas to foamboard

DS

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
126
I have a customer with a 22" x 27" canvas (not stretched). He had the canvas framed previously where the canvas was sandwiched between the glass and mat board. I know there should be an air space between the glass and canvas. I tied putting 1/8" spacers on the glass, but how do I attach the canvas to the mat board? I tried doing hinges on the top of the canvas, but the cloth linen tape wouldn't stay attached to the canvas.
Since I'm trying to add an airspace, the canvas won't lay completely flat on the mat board. You see ripples on the canvas when adding 1/8" spacers. Sandwiched between the glass and foam boar, it lays flat but I don't believe I should do it again. The paint on the canvas would surely come off on the glass. Help, help, help!
Dan Sikorski
 

CB Art & Framing

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Feb 20, 2007
Messages
2,120
-Backing needs to be more stable, foam board, gator or 1/4' wood
-You could staple edges of canvas onto backing (with customer's permission)
-Mount onto Mountcor Canvas (assuming art is not valuable, with permission, heat test small area first)
 

neilframer

PFG, Picture Framing God
Forum Donor
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
8,043
I'm assuming that the canvas doesn't have a border that can be wrapped and stapled to stretcher bars or a strainer.
As CB mentioned, you might be able to staple the edges to a wood backing using the frame rabbet to hide the staples, or heat mount using Mountcor Canvas.
This is a low heat mounting board, about 130° (if you have a heat/vacuum press).
I have also used Kool Tack canvas but the mounting temp is a little higher, about 170° and you have to use caution.
You can also do a wet mount but if you are not familiar with these techniques, don't use them.

Because it is a canvas, if it is acrylic or oil and you can mount it, you really don't need glass over it.
Just something to consider.
 
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prospero

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
19,251
I've done a few by sticking with diluted PVA, using a substantial board (2.5mm MDF?).
The trick is to keep it under even pressure while the glue dries. Make a 'press' with slabs of 3/4" chipboard.
Release paper under a on top and a foam blanket. Pile a lot of weight on top (books?) and leave at least 24hrs.
The back should ideally be sealed with a couple of coats of PVA.

OK for items of no intrinsic value. For more valuable works it really should be mounted on a bigger canvas
and stretched in the time-honored manner.
 

DS

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
126
Thanks for all your suggestions. Hope you have a great Sunday.
 
Beauty, Brawn, and Brains: Wizard Z1 CMC

shayla

WOW Framer
Forum Donor
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
31,408
Hi, DS. What medium is on the canvas? If it's thickly painted, with globs sticking up, you'll need to protect them from being squished if you weight it.
 

neilframer

PFG, Picture Framing God
Forum Donor
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
8,043
I use the small size bubble bubblewrap between the weight and the canvas being mounted.
These bubbles are about 1/4".
Place the bubblewrap with the bubbles face down on the canvas.
The bubbles are just the right size to allow weight to be applied to the canvas and it will also not "squish" the paint if that is an issue.
It is perfect for putting pressure where it is needed between the "globs" and it's just right to not "squish" the high points.
I usually use 32" x 40" glass boxes as weights.
 
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Beauty, Brawn, and Brains: Wizard Z1 CMC
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