can we get this going again?

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stud d

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I always liked this portion of the g, but feel that it is never used. Is there something we can do...? Well I shall start, you all add in. We always go to classes, why to learn! Why not learn from each other, that is how I learned to frame.


Now remember no agreeing with anyone, you need to post your own unique idea, or i kick you off the thread!!!Not that I have any power here or anywhere else, but beware.

So let me see, I will start out with a boring one and all can top me. When screwing in two hole hangers I like to screw in the bottm screw on each hanger. I wire the hangers that are attached then when I strctch the wire out I find out where the top hole is by allowing the wire to give me the direction. This sounds odd, but hope you get the hing. Of course this is good on frames of say 1 1/2 wide or more.


PL


post now, not later, if i see you on here and no post from you I will hunt you donw and smackkkkk dat hiney!!!!
 
OK - Patrick - gimme a minute here - hmmm...

Let's see now:

OK - I have discovered when I am on a hunting trip in another room for a particular item - say, a special sized screw driver to go with a certain screw - I put said screw into my pocket and carry it with me into the other room - this way, when I completely forget why I have entered the aforementioned room, I can reach into my pocket, find the screw, and hence, remember to look for the screw driver.

Howzat?
 
OK... I'll throw one in.

One person handles all the scheduling, ordering, receiving and storage.

On our production board, we note all orders in house with name, bin number, and how many units. If, when the name goes up, there are any materials that need to be ordered, we notate with "WOF" (waiting on frame), "WOM" (...mat), etc. When the supplies are delivered, we cross out the appropriate "waiting on...". The when all items are in, we put a red dot by the name. This way, nobody starts a project only to find out 20 mintues later that the fillet hasn't come in yet.

Since we don't have POS software to track orders, this method has been a real time-saver. But maybe someone else has a better idea for a manual production board???? Would love to see someone "one-up" me!
 
When I go into the glass/matbd room to cut a piece of glass/matbd on the wall cutter, I write the dimension on a piece of masking tape and put it on the back of my hand. If I get interrupted (always!) I don't have to re-hunt for the work order or an unstuck sticky note, 'cause it's stuck on me!

We don't have POS yet either. Since I do all the ordering, receiving, etc., I have an order binder. Each supplier has its own section. White copy of the 3-part work order is kept on a clipboard (pink stays with the art, yellow is customer copy) until the order is made, with vendor name and date it was ordered. Then they all go on an alpha board with bin number noted.

Orders in binder are dated, name of person taking the order, order # (if there is one), entered moulding/mat number and quantity, customer name and art description, a checkmark as the order-taker reads it back. When inventory is received, a red checkmark goes on each entry as it is checked in. Susan, your production board sounds great, mind if we try it?
 
I have made 4" x 4" squares of different combinations for the design center so we don't design something that does not fit into the frame.
By using these we can show the customer if they choose a frame that is not deep enough or will be to tight for the designed package they can actually see and agree for a deeper frame suitable for the designed package. They don't right away think we are trying to sell something they don't need.
Saves a lot of headaches in the finish area when something doesn't fit or is too tight.
Glass, 1 mat, 3/16 fc
Glass, 2 mat, 3/16 fc
Glass. 8 ply mat, 3/16 fc
Glass, 1/8 spacer, 3/16 fc
Glass, 1/4 spacer, 3/16 fc
and so on
Tape each combination along the edges and label.
 
I have a flat square magnet on top of my underpinner with a small strip of each sized 'V' nail BAR the size that is loaded in the machine.

This stops me pushing a large 'V' nail through a skinny moulding.
 
I'll back you up Patrick, beware anyone entrering without leaving a tip!!! (& let me know if you see anyone doing just that) A post with "ditto" is likely to get you in serious trouble.

My tip...

um...

oh...

hang on...

Write a big note "PHOTO" on your Museum glass box or with the largest spacers, when you are using these products it is often the case that you want to photograph the frame before the glazing goes in.
 
this is the way we do the production line, to be sure not to start a project before all the part have arrived.

It's very basic..... We have a clip board that says "needs to be ordered" and one that says "Ordered" and then there is the table top holder that the workorders go into when everything is in.

We have a POS, but I am such a small shop it really doesn't help with that kind of thing. The calendar is a lifesaver though.

Does anybody know how to move the dates for an order in the Lifesaver system to show it is a rush?
 
Huh??

Lance E said:
I'm watching Ray and Val, Ray better be posting!
Click to expand...

Lance, why are you watching Ray and me? And why had Ray better be posting?? You're making me paranoid, dear. :confused:
 
Val....

Our systems seem to be very similar. I use a 3-ring binder divided by vendors also. Customer name, item, size/color, date ordered, date in....etc...

After that the order goes on the production board. We used to use dry erase markers on a sheet of plexi over a hand-made, 3 week calender... metal framed... hang it on the wall. It was easy to move, add or erase orders as needed.

Now, however, we use one of those huge wall calendars that will hold a month's worth of orders. It gets a little crowded sometimes, but we save them and they have come in handy as a reference tool. Feel free to use either one if you like.
 
Susan, I'm scared to death to use on of those big wall calendars, although I should. I'm afraid I'll really know how many orders I have pending! All I know is....right now, it's a lot, and I need another me! (Now, there's a scary thought!)
 
Okak Val, at the time you had already posted, Ray had not (and still has not, better hurry!!!).

Now you are posting without adding further tips, therefore you are now in breach of rule #73 and will be dealt with accordingly.

The paper from between sheets of glass (or lites as some fancy smancy people seem to call them) are excellent as a temporary table cover for all sorts of jobs.
 
Just heard this from one of our framers today... To remove that oil-slick look you get when using black touch-up markers, rub on and wipe off black wood putty. Give it a try!

(Val... Lance just looks mean. I'm sure he'll speak in your favor at the trial.)
 
Uh-oh. Lance, ya gonna spank me?:D

Okay, then, to make up for it, here's two, I mean three....no, four...er-five. Nope, there's six:
1. Glue magnet strips to the tape dispenser and end of mat cutter to hold wayward razor blades.
1.5 Magnets are also great for picking up the spilled box of pins when you're stretching needlework. If you don't have a magnet, see #6.
2. Unseal gets frame putty off of your hands, even the black stuff. And gets silver Rub-n-Buff off your face after Halloween..
3. Clamp lifters for the mat cutter are a great shoulder-saver and you don't have to hold up the bar with your boobs anymore.
4. That really thin cardboard that comes with suede matboard is also a good recyclable worktable cover.
5. A thin film of CornerWeld spread over a splinter and let dry will pull it out.
6. Super Glue is a good band-aid and won't wash off. Even when you want it to. Don't itch your nose until it's dry, however.

Okay Lance, now will you - I mean - are you gonna spank me??
 
Val - please describe what you mean by clamp lifters for the matcutter.

I have a heavy wire with a heavyish spring attached to the oak bar of my Keeton Kutter which floats the bar about 1-2" off of the base surface (going from the bar to the ceiling) and a similar heavy wire attached to a piece of wood which acts as a foot pedal on the floor to "clamp" the kutter down securely. So all I have to do to secure a mat in the kutter is put my foot down.

Magnets placed around the base of your vise will hold brads for joining.

OK, back to sleep now...
 
If you use an "Un-Fit" tool, slap a strong magnet onto the handle and leave it there. Whenever you finish pulling all the staples or points, pass the magnet over the back of the piece and pick up all the points in one easy motion.

A good way to scavenge a super-strong magnet: bust open a dead computer hard drive, there are a couple of magnets inside that you can pry out.

Aloha, Cam
 
Jennifer

You can change the due date on the Lifesaver "framing order" screen. If you type in a date before the default due date Lifesaver will print "RUSH" in big letters at the top of the work order for you.

Be aware, when you do this Lifesaver will ignore any of your normally blocked out days. So you could type in a date that is a Sunday (for example) and lifesaver will accept it.

Was this what you were asking?

Clive.
(AKA Hired Help, but not any more)
 
Matoaka said:
Since we don't have POS software to track orders, this method has been a real time-saver. But maybe someone else has a better idea for a manual production board???? Would love to see someone "one-up" me!
Click to expand...

At out shop, one person does all the ordering. After ordering, the orders (8 1/2 x11 folded in half) go on the small clipboards hanging at the mat/mount table for each day of the working week. We don't schedule anything to be due for Monday, so anything that is waiting for supplies, art, etc. goes up on the Monday board. That way there is never anything left over on the other boards to get mixed up with the orders from the next week.
 
Well, I have gotten TWO great ideas from reading this thread this morning, so now I will pay back with two ideas of my own. (Great or not so, it is for you to say...)

1. Wrap a small piece of postit note backwards on a strip of matboard. Attach it with some masking tape. This makes an excellent 'fishing pole' to go after those little things that appear under the glass. It doesn't leave residue even after snagging the 'fish' off of glass.

2. (The best framing tip I ever got, so I am recycling it) You can spray mist suede matboard and then lightly IRON it to remove all but the worst marks. This has saved me a fortune over the years.
 
OK, this first tid bit I learned from a past post.

I put a large earth magnet under my corner vise which catches any brads I happen to drop as I nail corners. Sometimes I purposely put a few extra there if I pick up more than I need on the first corner so they are right at hand.

My shop is small...about 1200 SF and there is never enough flat horizontal space. On my fitting table (15'LX36"WX40"H) which also serves as my mat cutting and joining table. I have a large Dahle guillotine cutter I've mounted on wheels near the center of the table for cutting mat boards. If I am working on any project that needs up to ten feet of space on either end of the table, I can easily slide the cutter to one end or the other allowing me plenty of room to work. I've also attached a swing arm lamp to the cutter on a long extension cord which allows me light close to whatever I'm working on.

Dave Makielski
 
I like to make strips of 4 ply matboard one inch by 12 inches. I then wrap Jlar in reverese around one end to use a duster grabber. The first couple of times using it it can be too aggressive. So I roll it around on the work table to knock down the adhesive. I use this on every piece. It is key when doing this to only lift the edge of the glazing a fraction, otherwise you will introduce new dibree to the package.


Come on people kwit holding out, you need to be posting on here!!!Where is Tom, Baer, Ron, Jim and all the other 5,000+ posters? If you posted that many times you are rekwired to post atleast four tips on here. Or you will be baished from the Grumble for three days...I know you cant handle that, so better get to posting!!!!!

PL
 
FramingGoddess you must post as well as Kra, you both are or were in here, you membership dues will be raised if you dont post within five minutes.


PL
 
I'm invisable so you don't know if I've been here or not! Hahahahahaha

anyway, I'll give you a tip... Plant your corn early! No wait, wrong forum...

In addition to making weights out of stacking 4x6 and 5x7 pieces of glass then wrapping them with kraft paper, I've mounted 4x6 and 5x7 pieces of suede matboard to foamcore to use as a protector when weighting a small project.

We also use long handled q-tips to get specks out of the frame package, without worrying about leaving a speck of adhesive.

For putting screws in projects, wipe them across a piece of beeswax to make them go in the wood smoother.

That enough?
 
Mar, I have a new Fletcher 2200 mat cutter and you can get clamp lifters for it. they attatch at each end of the lift bar. I don't know if these are available for other models, but I'd sure check it out!

Fletcher website describes: "The clamp lifters hold the clamp bar off the mat so you can use both hands to position the mat. When ready to cut, push the mat clamp down and the unique spring design over rides the lifting feature"

Ellen, which two ideas are they?? good ones all around, Thanks Patrick, for this thread!
 

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dougj said:
I have made 4" x 4" squares of different combinations for the design center so we don't design something that does not fit into the frame.
Click to expand...

Great idea! I'm really enjoying this topic! :thumbsup:

Keep it coming!
 
Okay, I’ll play.

Instead of beeswax (which I probably couldn’t find in a store, anyway), I use a medium sized bottle cap and fill it with liquid soap. Over a weekend, most of the water dries out so you’re left with a gooey gel which is good for lubricating screws and screw eyes. Once you’ve got the screw in the hole, the remaining moisture will evaporate or be absorbed into the wood so the screw is tighter than it would be without the lubricant (I think).

Rather than risk the agony of pulling the hair off the back of my hand when I remove a reminder piece of masking tape, I have a magnetic bulldog clip (found at Staples and elsewhere in many fine stores throughout the land) which I attach to the back of the metal support rod on my glass cutter. I clip the entire work order to the clip, and since it is on the back of the support, it can be read through the glass (except for NonGlare, which doesn’t count).

Now, am I off the hook?
 
B. Newman said:
I'm invisable so you don't know if I've been here or not! Hahahahahaha
Click to expand...

Don't be too sure about that, and don't make me prove you wrong.


stshof said:
Keep it coming!
Click to expand...

Yes, please do, you now must post three additional tips to make up for the last one!


If you cut complex designs or matboards you can pop a CD into the back of the frame with the files on it. If security of the design is important you could always make a Truecrypt file.
 
bump on fun

Here's my glass cleaning tip.

Using a convient size of 3/8" foam core, say 25 x 32, stick on staggered lines of bump-ons all over it.

The glass doesn't slide around when your cleaning it, and it is easy to pick up when you're done (the glass I mean)

Mine is 3 years old now, and I'm ready for a new one. :thumbsup:

(maybe everyone already does this :######:
 
Bill Henry- said:
Rather than risk the agony of pulling the hair off the back of my hand when I remove a reminder piece of masking tape, I have a magnetic bulldog clip ...
Now, am I off the hook?
Click to expand...

Sorry Bill, I forget about you hairy guys! What about 811 tape, the "temporary stuff?

You can find beeswax in the notions section of a fabric store, for waxing thread, in a neat little slotted dispenser (cheap), and sometimes even in the grocery "household items" section.
 
We have an antique sewing kit - it includes a tiny spoon shaped tool. This was to get wax from your ear to spread on the thread to make it easier to work. That's why beeswax is available in notions sections.

So - my tip - save your earwax in a litle pot and take it to work, if you don't use it for a long time you may get enough to make a candle if there is a power cut.

Oh OK - a serious tip.. The matcutter end of my workbench is covered with a 6 x 3 ft piece of scratchproof acrylic. There's a year planner under it, lots of useful info and memos plus semi-used blades. Oh and photos of the family - even the ex wife, actually that one's an effigy where I keep most my old blades!
 
A Framer's Kit: Earwax, nosegrease, framer's spit...I'm afraid of what's next!

The local health store sells "earwax candles"...somehow used for extracting earwax...they're cone-shaped, rolled up like an ice cream cone. First time I saw it I thought "Man, it took a lot of earwax to make that thing!!"

Okay, to make up for that non-tip: Clean your ears at home, with nothing smaller than your elbow.
 
I just came up with one today - you know those thin plastic fake credit cards the big banks keep sending? In addition to using them as glue pallettes and for mixing small amounts of paint, Today I slipped one into a mylar pocket to trim the front part just a smidge so the mylar didn't show inside the mat.

A lot easier than any other method I have ever tried for doing that!

Those fake credit cards also make great "really expensive tools" (ask Baer!).
 
This tip is probably more helpful for the customer than for the framer, but here goes... I cut a small strip of mat board and stick it on the back of the frame, positioning it where the wire will hang from the nail or screw. That way, when a person hangs the frame on the wall, he/she will be less likely to tear the backing paper with the nail/screw head.

Hey, it is 1:30 a.m., Sorry I can't come up with anything better, but I didn't want the 'tips' police to be after me for viewing and not supplying a tip ;)
 
I'm going to try Nancyg's glass cleaning board today.

Nancy, when you replace your board use black foamcore. Black shows the smears so much better. A sheet of black matboard, on the wall cutter behind the glass, will also show up any scratches before you start to cut.

Someone mentioned the very thin cardboard that protects specialty mats. As well as cheap disposable work surface covering I also use this on the CMC to check multiple mat, multiple opening designs. Set the blade depth to "one" and the blade will just score (but not cut through) the cardboard. Let the machine "cut" all the mats without moving the first piece of cardboard. The finished complete layout is easy to see and this saves a lot of matboard if the design needs fine tuning.

Clive.
Doesn't everyone line up the screwheads on hangers, or is it just Marines?
 
I rarely use a tacking iron when dry mounting. Instead I place the piece on the mounting board which is slightly larger than the desired finished size and place my release board from the press over the work and slide the entire package into the press.

In addition to avoiding the tacking iron step and the the always present possibility of marking the artwork with the iron, the work stays flat and gives me an opportunity to examine the release board to be absolutely sure there is no residue on it.

Often, especially if the work is large, I will then remove the mounted piece with the release board from the press and weight the item to cool with the release board still on top.

If the work is to be matted, I then place a drop of glue on the top two corners of the mat and weight the mat for a couple minutes. It then is an easy step to trim the backing board to the exact size of the mat and you have a neat package to slide into the frame.

Dave Makielski
 
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I atg a scrap piece of mat to the side of my underpinner so if I put a bit to much glue on an end to be joined and some stays on my finger I can wipe it off on the mat.
When it gets heavy with glue and falls off I put a new one on.
 
Notions ... ha!

You can find beeswax in the notions section of a fabric store, for waxing thread, in a neat little slotted dispenser (cheap), and sometimes even in the grocery "household items" section.
Click to expand...

Yeah, right! … Like you’d find me in a store that doesn’t sell power tools or electronics.
 
I hang a t-shirt over the handle of the corner vise/v-nailer (gather the shirt tail up and put the handle through) to wipe excess glue on - and if any squeezes out, the tail of the shirt is long enough to reach up and wipe the frame as well.

(It also works for wiping putty, but I usually use a separate t-shirt for that.)
 
Dave said:
If the work is to be matted, I then place a drop of glue on the top two corners of the mat and weight the mat for a couple minutes. It then is an easy step to trim the backing board to the exact size of the mat and you have a neat package to slide into the frame.

Dave Makielski
Click to expand...

WARNING - use a straight edge as well -

1. It will prevent you slashing the mat - who hasn't done that!

2. It will prevent you from slashing your hand - I've done that and my framer has had two days off after doing it - and he bled on the goddam mat!!!
 
Patrick,

thank you for breathing life into this forum - this is all great - I owe you some good English ale!

Nancy - have a great big hug!



nancyg said:
Here's my glass cleaning tip.

Using a convient size of 3/8" foam core, say 25 x 32, stick on staggered lines of bump-ons all over it.

The glass doesn't slide around when your cleaning it, and it is easy to pick up when you're done (the glass I mean)

Mine is 3 years old now, and I'm ready for a new one. :thumbsup:

(maybe everyone already does this :######:
Click to expand...

I've been itching to get on here and thank you for this - straight after work I had to dash out to a concert (performing in - not watching) and just made it after a customer kept us open 'til 6 - but they spent quite a bit.

Anyway - I made one - didn't like foamboard - too stark and hard on the mince pies (eyes) and I've got no black in stock.

So I used 3mm MDF, which I don't stock but 'keep' - a lot of flat-packed prints come in it. Used a piece 48 x 36".

Oh boy - the flumb pervert is hopping mad - I absolutely love it.

Thanks again
11_2_104.gif


Oh - I have to leave a tip don't I

er .................. go to page one and read all this again!
 
If anyone had any free time on their hands, this thread and the previous others like it could be organized and gathered into a tidy little book - subtitles like "Glue tips, joining tips, glass tips, etc - and made into a PDF format like the cookbook???
 
Thanks for the offer Framar, my tip would be that you use Adobe InDesign in order to achieve this.
 
Very funny, Lance - very funny!

And that is all I need - more software! Aaaarrrggghhh!

Well, OK - maybe after the Art Horse auction on November 3 (and after I sleep for 2 or 3 days!
 
I tape a 3" wide strip of mat board onto one side of the 24" ruler that I use for trimming mats/foamcore, etc. That way, I have a wider surface for my hand to hold the ruler firmly against the material that I'm trimming and it is less likely to slip on me.
 
RoboFramer said:
Nancy - have a great big hug!
Anyway - I made one - didn't like foamboard - too stark and hard on the mince pies (eyes) and I've got no black in stock.

So I used 3mm MDF, which I don't stock but 'keep' - a lot of flat-packed prints come in it. Used a piece 48 x 36".

Oh boy - the flumb pervert is hopping mad - I absolutely love it.

Thanks again
11_2_104.gif
quote]

Roboframer......

Thanks, as it happens, I can use a hug today.

Also, I am modifying my new bump-on cleaner using a darker board of some type. Thanks everyone for the great tips

Smile Away:o
Click to expand...
 
and here's mine

Here's a couple of things that make my framing life easier
1) a cup of water at the joining table which has a sponge and a soft bristled toothbrush in it. Great for cleaning joined, glued courners. The toothbrush really works for any type of carved mouldings crevices.
2) I cover a 32x40 FC with either brown paper or release paper. When I have a larger frame, I can turn the FC (like a lazy susan - no puns there) - turntable... so I can work the four sides without sliding the frame. As I am 5'3 this hlep with the general, overall handling of a large piece as well from cleaning to triming the dust cover. I can repalce the paper as needed, and use it as a "cutting board" too.
3) Candle wax remover removes putty easily

Great ideas here keep them coming!
 
For anyone who still cuts glass on a horizontal surface - I've glued a strip of cork to the underside of my straightedge to keep it from sliding as I cut.

I also made a "hold down" for when I'm cutting a long piece. The straight edge is one of the old xacto t-squares (with the "T" taken off.) There is a hole in one end to which I've attached a nylon string with a wooden "stirrup" on the end. When I'm holding the straight edge at the "far" end, my foot is holding down the near end (anyone needing a picture of this, let me know.)
 
Thought of another: I use PMA vs ATG when I am doing raised float mounting items such photo's, articles, etc. I have had 969 ATG failures before and changed to PMA which sticks to all smooth, non-fabrics backing boards. This also works well for stacking FC together to get added heights...
 
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