C & H mat cutter problem

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Lisa

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pensacola florida
I have a C&H mat cutter that I have had for about 9 years, have always loved it, but cutting mats is my favorite part of framing. Lately I have been having trouble with it not moving smoothly when cutting. It feels like it is "dragging". I called the company and he told me how to adjust it, which I did. Unfortunately, it didn't help. I am wondering if this is a common problem with these mat cutters over time? I understand that C&H hasn't updated their machines for a very long time.
 
Lisa, do a complete tear down of the mat cutter. Remove the blades and remove the cutter head from the rod. Wipe down the rod and "cutter bar" with lighter fluid or denatured alcohol . Clean the inside of the cutter head and spray with a silicon of teflon spray. Reassemble and check to make sure the mat cutter is in square. You should have no problems. If it is still dragging, back off on the adjustment screws on the cutter head, you might have them too tight.
 
Cleaning has always worked for me. You don't need to remove anything. Fisrtly blow away all dust. Then wipe down the head transport bar with Unstick or Unseal (adhesive removers). Next pour a small pool of the same on the bar where the head moves (the flat, back part). Roll the head back & forth over the adhesive remover pool. Repeat at various points and then clean with cloth. Let me know if this helps. (N.B You may want to remove blades before trying this).
 
Well, unfortunately I have tried all of the above. I am anal about cleaning my cutter - always have been. I normally use lighter fluid, tho' I might try the unseal. I have taken the head off and cleaned, done adjustments regularly and never had a problem like this. I am finding that it is also leaving part of the opening uncut unless I put alot of pressure on the bar.

Have you ever needed to replace the copper sleeves? To me this looks like the only part that is worn.
 
Hey Mik - didn't you go to that art show in Loveland? How was it?
 
Yes, went to Sculpture in the Park and the Loveland Invitational. Saw alot of beautiful sculptures but thought the both shows were a bit weaker this year than last.
As for your mat cutter, I believe that there are three hex screws on the cutter head, one on top and two on the bevel side. If you have cleaned the rod and the cutter head and are still having problems, untighten the top hex first,test,if it is the same then do both of the side screws. See if this frees up the cutter head. Tighten all the screws slightly to keep the head for wobbling. I don't think the copper sleeves need to replaced, but I could be wrong.
 
Lisa said:
...Lately I have been having trouble with it not moving smoothly when cutting. It feels like it is "dragging"...I am wondering if this is a common problem with these mat cutters over time?...
Click to expand...

That design still uses a brass block sliding on a chrome bar, doesn't it? On later models, the brass block is chrome-plated to match the bar, but the bottom (sliding surface) would still show as brass. How often have you adjusted your machine in the past? If you have adjusted the Allen-screwed brass dowels in the brass block and it still drags, I would suspect that the block has worn beyond the point of adjustability. So, when you pull the block through a cut, it binds on the bar.

Try this: Remove the blades from the block. Stand next to the machine so you can touch both ends of the bar, not at the end of it. Pinch both ends of the block between your thumbs and index fingers of both hands, and gently push/pull each end in opposite directions. Note that the block is not to slide on the bar in this exercise. Can you make it wiggle by doing that? If so, your block may be worn, causing it to bind.

The fact that the blade isn't cutting all the way through on part of its travel could indicate that the block is so loose on the bar that the blade is lifting out of the cut, due to you unconsciously tilting the block to the right as you pull it through the cut.

Last time I checked, you could still get a replacement brass block. I suggest checking with your favorite suppliers. I got my last one from United some years ago. If you buy a new block, it must be hand-fitted to the chrome bar by sanding the bottom surface. Instructions should come with it.

If you determine that your brass block is tight on the bar, then I can't help you, except to suggest that you buy a new cutter. Maybe it's time for a CMC?
:thumbsup:
 
Reading through that post above, I should make a couple of things clearer...

There are two wear points:

1. The bore, where the block rides on the rod. This is where the inserts go, if your machine has inserts.

2. The bottom, where the block slides on the bar. Adjustment of the pegs that tighten the bore have only limited effect on the bottom.

While you have your block gripped between the fingers of both hands, try to move it in a rotating motion on the rod. If the bottom of the block lifts off the bar on either side, that indicates wear on the bottom. In that case, replacing the inserts might not fix the looseness. You might still have to replace the whole block.
 
I hate to repeat myself or sound annoying, but I have the exact same problem when even a small ammount of dirt remains on the rollers. Lighter fluid is fine, just be generous and squirt it under the head and roll back & forth over the lighter fluid at LOTS OF POINTS ALONG THE BAR.
Another source may be the base is warping due to temperature changes.
 
Some blind suggestions from and old C& H user.

First the Tips Jim gave are very important and removeing the head was as I remember it suggested in the owners manual sense there is a grove inside the head where dirt and grime can accumulate and can only be reached when off the bar.

Next if allowed to be used with improper adjutment eventually the GROOVE in the BRASS block becomes distorted and the block twist as it slides. The final test I remeber when all is cleaned and lubricated was to stand at the bottom and slide the block up and down witha push and it should travel almost all the way on it's on momentum . other wise it is probably binding or not really clean and lubricated as it should be.

Still another thing to check that vaguely sounds like the probelem being encounterd can be caused by the BLADE cutting holers being out of alignment. if you lift the cover on the blade holder and the blae you should find an adjustment screw and tension washer . Some times the Shim is the wrong isze or breaks or the adjustment is wrong and the blade wobbles slightly when inserted in the mat. It doesan't do it the same every time but some times it may even contact the bottom or sides of the base createing a grinding sound or feel.

Finally while the QUICKY Cleaning and Lubricating method suggested by CB ART &FRAMING is a good short cut on C&h and may be the recomenedde method for Fletchers it might be a good thing to remeebr that the cutter in question doesn't have "dirt remains on the rollers" since it has a SOLID BRASS BLOCK and no rollers of any kind . henece all the suggestions that I and Jim have offered about adjustment screws and removeing the block.

A really great source of Straight mat cutter maintainece was and always has beem John Ranes try emailing him.

BUDDY
 
The number one cause for the blade to cut in some areas and not others is the base of the cutter is not flat. Also this can cause the head to bind in some places but not others.

Is it screwed down to a table? If not, the first solution is to screw it down in four points (two at each opposite end.) Then, using a good steel straight edge that is at least 48" long turned on its edge, and with the cutting bar upright, place the straight edge along the base and see if there are any gaps. I find that it is usually necessary to shim the base with 2 ply (or even 4 ply) sheets to achieve an even surface. This may also have to be adjusted periodically as humidity and temperature changes cause the base to swell, especially if it is MDF. C and H has gone through several ownership changes and you don't tell us who made your cutter. C + H (the original?) 3M?

Second, how are the drive pins in the hinges, or even the hinge bosses? On one of our older machines, the casting cracked where the drive pins go in and it actually lifted the bar slightly at one end. The drive pins sometimes bend from fatigue and if they are no longer straight, can cause the bar to apply even pressure (or the operator to apply uneven pressure to get the bar to "go flat" which is actually warping the bar. The bar has a natural curve in it so you don't have to press hard.

Finally, dirt or metal shavings from the head do get stuck between the rod and bar and the beveled edge of a matboard soaked in Naptha (or lighter fluid) run up and down can dislodge the material stuck in there.

And finally, it is a brass head and if not kept clean and well lubricated, it can wear out...though a worn head rarely binds it usually gives hooked cuts.
 
2. The bottom, where the block slides on the bar. Adjustment of the pegs that tighten the bore have only limited effect on the bottom.

While you have your block gripped between the fingers of both hands, try to move it in a rotating motion on the rod. If the bottom of the block lifts off the bar on either side, that indicates wear on the bottom. In that case, replacing the inserts might not fix the looseness. You might still have to replace the whole block.[/QUOTE]


Well Jim, this part I found to be true. The head is not loose on the bar, but does have play in this manner. This cutter has 4 small round (look like brass) circles at the corners that it appears to slide on. I do believe that you are correct and they are worn out. :(

I guess it's time to replace the block....maybe time for a new cutter (I'm a bit attached to this one tho')....maybe time for a CMC....

On the road to Atlanta now - so who knows!!

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions!!
 
Lisa said:
...I guess it's time to replace the block....maybe time for a new cutter (I'm a bit attached to this one tho')....maybe time for a CMC....

On the road to Atlanta now - so who knows!!
Click to expand...

Stop by the Fletcher-Terry booth and say "Hi". I'll be at the underpinners, but I'll bet they might have a matcutter laying around there somewhere.
 
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