Bulletin Board Cork Thickness

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Amy McCray

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Dec 3, 2002
Posts
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Loc
North Prairie, WI
I got the info needed for sources of cork (thanks to the search feature!) but find that cork is available in various thicknesses.

The customer wants a very nice quality cork, so I'm thinking the Jelinek BB14 or CR117 (by the sheet). They come in thickness starting at .8mm (1/32"). My inclination is to go with the 6mm, which is 1/4" thick. Does this sound right?

My intention is to use Frank's fabric glue to secure to foam core.

Anyone have any suggestions for what thickness has worked best for them?

Thanks!
 
You are better off gluing the cork to homosote board. It is the preferred board to use as it is thick enough to withstand the repeated poking from thumbtacks where the foamcore will not hold up long term.
The foamcore will bow to the back of the frame when pushed where the Homosote won't.

Use the 12/4" cork.
 
Thanks. I haven't found Homosote board yet. The HD near me no longer carries it. Sorry, but have to ask what 12/4" cork is.
 
Pretty sure he means 1/4".
I second the vote against foam. I used Luan plywood, cheap, lightweight and readily available.
 
We have used 1" thick acoustical panels for corporate bulletin boards. They look great.
 
We are a framers only picture framing forum
Amy, HD doesn't carry Homasote anymore because it's a brand name. Ask them about "Sound board". [same thing but generic].
Or glue it down to some 8mm CoreX.

12/4 would be 3 inches thick BTW. :D maybe in a composite . . . but not in nature.
 
Here's what you want, but it is not cheap. Cool looking surface for those who want a different look for their bulletin boards. And it works.
 
Actually, 12/4 is a sign that the fingers are fatter than the keys are big.

Thanks for pointing out the one flaw in an otherwise perfect body!!:cry::cry:
 
I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have any suggestions on types of adhesives for gluing a roll of cork to the soundboard?
 
Vermont Hardwoods solid wood picture frame molding
Not sure what soundboard is, but if it is similar to homasote (which is what most commercial bulletin boards use) then contact cement would be effective.
:cool: Rick
 
We have created hundreds of corkboards over the years and our substrate of choice was Soundstop Board by Blueridge because it is much lighter than the Homasote. We found that this board, combined with a 1/8" thick cork surface made the best combination of creating a good product at a reasonable price. We started with 1/4" cork but found it was not necessary when using the Soundstop board and also tested foamcore which broke down after heavy use. PVA adhesives will almost certainly cause whatever substrate you use to curl so Rick is correct, contact adhesive works best. We stopped offering corkboards due to lack of demand so if you are anywhere near San Diego I have 5 sheets of the Soundstop I will offer at a great price. Companies for cork are Bangor and Jelinek. Here is a link to Blueridge Soundstop:

https://www.blueridgefiberboard.com/soundstop-maximize-sound-deadening/ SOUNDSTOP – Soundproofing / Sound Deadening Board - BLUE RIDGE FIBERBOARD
 
Thank you for this advice, Rick! Can you help me figure out the final step? I'm a mom planning to create a large cork board for our family use - kind of like a public notice area. Hehe. My husband is handy and can mount the final product, but I am the one who finalizes the design and sources the product. Once I obtain my 1/8"cork and soundstop board, adhere them with contact adhesive (is that spray glue? Rubber cement?) then how do we mount to the wall? Any objections to just drilling a screw through the corners of the board and into the drywall anchors/stud? We are going for a modern look so not planning to finish with trim. Thank you!
 
Momastery said:
Thank you for this advice, Rick! Can you help me figure out the final step? I'm a mom planning to create a large cork board for our family use - kind of like a public notice area. Hehe. My husband is handy and can mount the final product, but I am the one who finalizes the design and sources the product. Once I obtain my 1/8"cork and soundstop board, adhere them with contact adhesive (is that spray glue? Rubber cement?) then how do we mount to the wall? Any objections to just drilling a screw through the corners of the board and into the drywall anchors/stud? We are going for a modern look so not planning to finish with trim. Thank you!
Click to expand...
I would reconsider that. The cork board probably has very fragile crumbly corners. You can do a modern look with a modern frame
 
Purchase Nurre Caxton directly 800-323-1055
Momastery said:
Thank you for this advice, Rick! Can you help me figure out the final step? I'm a mom planning to create a large cork board for our family use - kind of like a public notice area. Hehe. My husband is handy and can mount the final product, but I am the one who finalizes the design and sources the product. Once I obtain my 1/8"cork and soundstop board, adhere them with contact adhesive (is that spray glue? Rubber cement?) then how do we mount to the wall? Any objections to just drilling a screw through the corners of the board and into the drywall anchors/stud? We are going for a modern look so not planning to finish with trim. Thank you!
Click to expand...
First - the contact cement we use here is a solvent based product. We perfer this because it will not make the substrate curl since no water is introduced into the process but it is not recommended for homeowner use. For your project using something like Dap Waterbased Contact Cement would probably be best. It is available at Home Depot or most hardware stores. Be careful when placing the cortk onto the soundstop when using Contact Cement. Once it is set in place it can not be moved so plan for getting it right the first time. Next - the edge created by laminating the cork to the soundstop board is not really clean enough to hang without some sort of perimeter finish. You can laminate fabric onto the face of the board and wrap it around the outside edges onto the back or if you like the modern look maybe look into a float frame surround. If you decide to mount it flat to the wall without any edge finish it could be glued directly onto the wall surface using construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or screwing though the board into studs or drywall anchors with some sort of decorative screws and washers would work as well. If you include a float frame you could try a Z-Bar hanging system.
 
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