book mounting mats

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Frame Maker SA

Frame Maker SA

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
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139
Loc
San Antonio, Texas
Hello all.

I want to book mount most if not all my mats. I have searched the Grumble for information and have found alot regarding why it is a good practice and and what kind of materials to use. However I have not found much on how it is actually done.

When there is alot of room for the mat it has not been to difficult, but when the mat needs to be placed very carefully and not move I have not found a good technique. I could go into specific questions here, but I thought someone might have a link to a how to article.

Thanks
 
I use linen tape to hinge the mat to the backing. Here is how I do it to get a nice tight hinge with little chance of messing up your mat.

With your mat and backing cut to size and a strip of linen tape the size of the longest edge moisten the tape and attach it to the edge of the backing with half the tape on the packing and half exposed. Now turn over the backing so that the exposed tape is adhesive side up. Place the mat face up on the tape and apply pressure. Fold the mat book and roll with an acrylic roller. You have to work fairly quickly so that the adhesive doesn't dry out.

Next place the artwork into the mat and position it. Place a clean blotter on the image with a weight on top of that. Now you can decide how you want to attach the art to the backing be it hinges, edge strips, photo corners etc.

When I first started, we just laid the mat face down and the backing next to each other and placed the linen tape on both at the same time. This worked as long as the mat and backing were at the same level. If they weren't then you would get a loose book that allowed the mat to shift a little bit. The other disadvantage to this is that the mat being face down could pick up some dirt off of the fitting table or be scuffed. Also don't place a blotter & weight on a fragile piece of art or anything like a pastel or chalk.

I hope this helps
 
That helps thanks.

Actually kind of a facepalm moment there when I realized I should mount the art after the mat.:icon11: I had been mounting the art then trying to book the mat.
 
If the mat is thicker than the backboard, I just get a strip of scrap and slide it underneath to bring both to the same level. :smiley:

(Or several bits of scrap)
 
I do the same as Dave. I don't like to have my mats face down (that little black speck will always show up on that mat, even if you checked your work area 1000 times.

I book all of my mats, simply because I find it saves me time positioning for mounting. I use either linen tape, or for cheap stuff, plastic white framer's tape.
 
I do quite a bit of original art on heavier stock WC paper. For these I use a 2 or 4 or 8 ply sink mount out of strips of matboard.

For booking these, do the sink mat first, and make sure it aligns by placing the window mat on top. Once the sink mat is complete, I then do the booking.

For booking I want the linen tape to be on top of the sink mat so I place a couple layers of mat board under the window mat so both sides will be level, then have the window mat face down on the left, and the mount mat with the sink mat on the right and place the tape on the long side between the two sets of mats at the same time. I can then put the artwork back into the sink mat after I have booked the mats.
 
Russ, it seems to me that the artwork could easily slip out of place when you combine a sink and a book. I thought the idea of a sink is to have the package tight so the art can't drop out of its containment.
 
FrameMakers said:
Russ, it seems to me that the artwork could easily slip out of place when you combine a sink and a book. I thought the idea of a sink is to have the package tight so the art can't drop out of its containment.
Click to expand...

Dave, I put in what I call a sink mount that is slightly thicker than the thickness of the art. I don't want the mat putting any pressure on the artwork. I then put two thin strips of 1/2 ply on the bottom corners so the artwork does not fall out. I also put two pieces on the top corners, but I only attach these on one side so the artwork can easily be removed. I have about 1/32 allowance for expansion of the artwork.

I then book the mat with linen tape to the mounting package, on the long side, and put a very small piece of 810 / 811 tape on the opposite side (maybe a1/64th overlapping the top of the mat to stabilize).

Quite a few times my customers get them matted only, and like to take the artwork out, to look at (eg antique calling cards cards), and then have them framed later. Edge mounts / edge strips make it more difficult to get the art out.
 
There have been times when I both needed to book the mat and have a very very precise art location. When this happens, I mount the art on an oversize board. Then I place the window mat e-x-a-c-t-l-y where I want it, and trace around it with a sharp pencil. Then I cut the mount board to that pencil mark size, then book the mat as usual.
 
To repeat, please make the spine on the longest edge, to ensure that the window and back mats are as secure as possible.



Hugh
 
Hugh, that was the way that I was trained and what I practice, but I always wondered if it was really the best way. If the top edge is used, then it is holding in the same direction as the force of gravity. But when the side is hinged, gravity is pulling down on the window mat but different forces on the side hinge which I could see causing it to shift over time. This of course is for a piece that is hanging on the wall for it's life time unlike what you are often dealing with where the work is stored flat except when it is on display.
 
Which 1st Spine tape or Art hinging?

Asking for a logical explanation why 1 way is better than the other?

I've done both & at the end of the day does it really make a difference which you do 1st?

As long as the Art is where it supposed to be placement wise in relation to the Mat opening and all hinging is done properly.

Analogy...
do you put both socks on 1st then your shoes or 1 sock, 1 shoe, 1 sock 1 shoe and which 1st left or right?

Perhaps as important or not?
 
Hugh, that was the way that I was trained and what I practice, but I always wondered if it was really the best way. If the top edge is used, then it is holding in the same direction as the force of gravity. But when the side is hinged, gravity is pulling down on the window mat but different forces on the side hinge which I could see causing it to shift over time. This of course is for a piece that is hanging on the wall for it's life time unlike what you are often dealing with where the work is stored flat except when it is on display.
Click to expand...

I've thought this very same thing that David states. It seems logical.



Z
 
I would think for maximum stablility, one would be best off to book at the bottom. The edges would be supported by the rabbet, if the tape on the book failed.
 
When the window mat is in the frame, if its outer edges are equal, there should be little to no stress on the spine and so for most framing applications, tape direction is not as critical as it is for items stored in boxes. Spines of mats in collection boxes see a great deal more action and loosening can be a danger, there, thus the long edge should be a safe bet. Similar issues come up with strainers and modern frames, which may be assembled once in a frame shop, but which can be assembled and taken apart frequently in a museum setting.



Hugh
 
Hugh, this is a bit of a tangent, but re your comment about frames being taken apart,
do museums use screws in their frames to make this process easier to do?
 
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