Problem bleeding touch-up marker!!

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vanilawright

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Has anyone ever had a touch-up marker wick up the frame?

I used a Chartpak marker with the Blender (perhaps the problem?) on LJ's new Cascade line (the one where they will plant a tree if you purchase) and it is bleeding into the etched area of the moulding.

I tried lighter fluid but it didn't do much. This is a 25" chop and I am loath to make the frame any smaller. Any ideas on how to clean it up? Is coloring the chop a waste of time, by the way? I was trained to do it and always have but . . .

LJ is going to ~HAVE~ to plant more trees if this happens to others. lol
 
Thank you for responding. No, I do not, though I already considered sanding. The bleeding goes as far as 5/16 in some spots so that's not really an option.
 
I haven't used the Cascade line but looking at it online, it looks like that older rustic style moulding that they discontinued (it came in a blue grey, a mahogany with blueish-purple overwash, and a wood tone with grey overwash. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the line though).

I would mixing up some acrylic paint and apply it into the crevices with a stiff bristle paint brush (the cheap kids art/craft brushes are good for that) and then immediately rub off the excess with a towel or rag. I'd mix it up in a little container until it looks like it matches, cover it to prevent drying out and let a test patch dry on a piece of matboard since acrylics tend to dry a shade darker.
 
You can't use marker on this type of finish...it sounds like a patina and that will bleed every time. Other woods that bleed are barnwoods.

Match a putty or filler to the area which bled, or better yet (even though you don't want to), cut down the rails down and get rid of the mar. Don't use a marker dressing...join as-is and then fill the corners, if needed with matching putty...
 
Colored pencil works nicely for these soft woods which wick markers. Just run over the edge before joining.

Watercolor markers wick less than solvent markers, BTW - but I am finding Prismacolors work fantastic on corners.
 
Thanks . . . cheers!

Thank you all for responding. When I didn't receive replies right away I thought I might not get any, so I decided to rub the #$% out of it with lighter fluid before ordering a new rail. Here's what I discovered:

Saturate with LF, rub, blot, repeat. . . . repeat . . . . repeat. . . . kind of like getting a stain out of clothing (or red wine out of carpet or a white couch :icon19:)

That worked fairly well on the raw wood, however the barnwood/rustic part of this moulding (kdub---the old line, Meadowlands, that they claimed was discontinued because it wasn't popular came back (Cascade) with many more profiles and additional colors. lol!) Anyway, that barnsiding part had too many grooves and crevices to be able to use that technique. I saturated again but got a toothbrush and went to town, still wiping after each dousing/brushing. It did a decent job but after it dried it always came back a little and began to get a shine on the smooth part from all the rubbing. Not a big deal, definitely much better.

Sarah Jayne--I did sand ever so slightly, thinking the LF might get in deeper, but I'm not sure it did anything. I was truly afraid of losing a nice join.

Janet--After joining the entire thing, I found that the blue still showed a bit (and perhaps worse because I waited to join that corner last /was waiting to make sure the LF was dry.) I don't mean to toot my own horn, but I managed to mix UMSCO blue, white, gray and black to match ~perfectly~ the 'Glacier Blue' in the Cascade line. Thanks for the tip on the barnwood.

Framar--I will get my colored pencils from home and order a set of the Prismacolor markers.

I think it'll be fine. Thanks again for all your suggestions. And since I'm feeling lucky, I think I'll also go see if I can simultaneously keep a glass of red upright while reaching for my mouth. . .
 
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