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Black Spacers - Hollow or Solid?

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Shayla

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For 1/8" and 1/4" black plastic spacers, do you use hollow or solid? Why?
 

Joe B

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I too like FrameSpace spacers, they are quick and easy. I use to use Econo Spacers until I found out about FrameSpace spacers and I have a ton of Econo Spacers left over that I have been using up a little at a time. I don't like the price of FrameSpace spacer but with what I save on time I believe they are worth it.
 

Greg Fremstad

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Besides being faster and easier to apply, FrameSpace is easily removable to clean or replace the glass. FrameSpace also help keep the glass from chipping in metal frames and keeps the glass from shaving bits of leaf, paint, and wood in woods frames. In my experience, folks who can't or won't read and follow instructions are the ones who don't like FrameSpace.
 
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Shayla

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Like hearing the comments. We have FrameSpace, Econospace and Spacemaker solid spacers. One thing I really like about the hollow 3/8" Econospace is being able to put a same-color mat strip inside. .
 

Rick Granick

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One thing that Econospace 1/4" is really good for is making retainer strips for between-glass framing projects. The adhesive holds them in place initially, and then you use a fitting tool to squeeze 1/2"x20 brads through them into the moulding. (I like to pre-insert the brads into the spacers before installing, then squeeze them into the wood.) Makes a very quick, effective, nice-looking presentation, with no need to paint wood strips.
:cool: Rick
 

Shayla

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hollow..it is lighter
Does it stick just as well? I've always used solid for 1/8", and our supplier accidentally sent some hollow.
 

Greg Fremstad

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FrameTek's EconoSpace is hollow to make it lighter and stiffer than if it were made solid. It has 250% thicker adhesive than any other spacer. It is also easier to cut if you can read and follow the instructions. EconoSpace also has a nice satin finish on one side so you have a choice of glossy or satin showing towards the art. EconoSpace comes in 4 sizes: 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 inch airspace. Most sizes available in clear, black, and white. They all come a full 60" long, not 4 ft 8 inches.
 
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Shayla

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FrameTek's EconoSpace is hollow to make it lighter and stiffer than if it were made solid. It has 250% thicker adhesive than any other spacer. It is also easier to cut if you can read and follow the instructions. EconoSpace also has a nice satin finish on one side so you have a choice of glossy or satin showing towards the art. EconoSpace comes in 4 sizes: 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 inch airspace. Most sizes available in clear, black, and white. They all come a full 60" long, not 4 ft 8 inches.

Just now fitting something with the 1/4" clear hollow, and was thinking about how I like the options of the side finishes. Came here for a break, and found this note, so now, I'm smiling.
 

Rick Granick

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For those using adhesive-backed spacers (such as EconoSpace) and who may be concerned with eventual slippage, I recommend installing them in "post and lintel" fashion. That is, install the top and bottom spacers first, and then the sides to fit snugly with the top and bottom. That way, the top spacer is resting on the two side spacers. If you do the sides first, the top has no additional support at the ends. If you "windmill" them, it has no additional support at one end.
:cool: Rick
 

Shayla

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For those using adhesive-backed spacers (such as EconoSpace) and who may be concerned with eventual slippage, I recommend installing them in "post and lintel" fashion. That is, install the top and bottom spacers first, and then the sides to fit snugly with the top and bottom. That way, the top spacer is resting on the two side spacers. If you do the sides first, the top has no additional support at the ends. If you "windmill" them, it has no additional support at one end.
:cool: Rick

Post and lintel is what we do. I've heard to do pinwheel, but it seems like one end of the top wouldn't be supported.
 
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Pat Murphey

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Post and lintel is what we do. I've heard to do pinwheel, but it seems like one end of the top wouldn't be supported.

With the adhesive pressed against the glass compared to infinitesimal gravity, the spacer isn't going anywhere. Pinwheeling just assures cosmetic no gap appearance.
 

RoboFramer

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Nov 19, 2002
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United Kingdom, West Sussex Coast. (Bottom centre)
"Post and lintel" ?? What's all this posh terminology? It's the Stonehenge method .... which worked for Stonehenge for over 5000 years so it works for me too.

Foam board spacers though, which can be strengthened if needs be and can also be lined with matching mounting board colour ... or contrasting. Oh, and if you keep skinny offcuts of both like I do - they're free - and extremely simple and accurate if you have a CMC.
A favourite at the moment is lining medal frame rebates with Regimental belt/tie colours.
 
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alacrity8

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I do Pinwheel, and have never seen a problem in 20 years. The corners look better
I have seen Post and Lintel fail. I'm not sure of the cause. Done by other framers.
My main concern - Never reposition or reuse adhesive based spacers. That invariably fails.
 
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