BevelAccents

[Orton]

Confusion? in the framing industry? - Never!!

Quoted from the verso of the BevelAccents corner samples: "Always use 2-ply barrier paper when art comes in contact with Specialty Fabrics BevelAccents,"

and . . .

quoted from the ArtCare foamboard packing box that the BevelAccents were shipped in: "Always use 2-ply barrier paper when art comes in contact with BevelAccents."

This has been brought to N&B's attention but as yet, there has not been a response.

When all is said and done, however, it seems that it is still controversial to include foamboard, any foamboard, in true c/p framing - not because of the surface papers, but because of the polystyrene inside the sandwich.

Orton

[This message has been edited by Orton (edited October 14, 2000).]

 

[Scarfinger]

BevelAccents, at least here in Canada, are a bit pricey. We like the idea but are considering wrapping our own and perhaps using something other than foamcore - like a couple of pieces of 8 ply rag.

 

[Croatcat]

I just finished an order for a pastel artist that included two 8 ply with openings stacked and covered with belgique fabric.
I used fabric adhesive from UMS, let it dry until tacky then put the fabric on it. I put the two drop-outs over the fabric pushing it down into the opening. Smoothed the fabric around the corners and put it all in vac/heat press. Came out great. There was a slight pull in weave of the fabric, but not too noticable. I was suprised at how well it actually looked. Never sure on a first attempt.

 

[Orton]

I had no idea that BevelAccents was so, well, controversial! Re: your e-mails - here goes. . .

I charge $1.00 per u.i., which includes the cost of a rag interleaf fitted between the art and the the foam. (Remember when doing your comparisons that I am in Canada, not in the U.S.A. and I do not have a walk-in trade.)

Yes, I do use them if the nature of the project allows it - they are faster than working from scratch. Most applications which allow me to use BevelAccents are usually finished off with the interleaf. If the job is to be full c-p, I will make my own using 8-ply rag for the core. Some folks may regard this as being overkill, but I am of the school that believes that foam has no place in true c-p work.

Fundamentally, the instructions are good - however, I do tack the first (guide) piece onto the work with two very small pieces of ATG (one at each end) to keep it in place - comes apart easily after.

Do be watchful of bad corners out of the box - some of the corners get mashed while the goods are in transit, and if used in that condition will make for a sloppy mitre in the first corner. If in doubt, I trim it.

I use a Keen Kut Ultimat with the long blade in the bevel head with no problem - as long as the blade is sharp: I determine the angle by eye. The angle is really not all that critical except that it must be relieved less than 90 degrees i.e. sniped, to make for a good corner.

I use 1/2" 969 ATG, and Good Glue in combination.

I use up one stick at a time, trimming as I go - strictly an inventory control procedure - makes for less waste.

Orton