Bevel Accents


CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Feb 13, 2003
How do I cut the bevel accent if i need more than
the basic square?
For those with a Wizard I used template #310.
I didn't listen in math class!!
Not sure what you mean by "the bevel accent"? Do you mean, non-rectangular openings? Do you have a Wizard CMC? Or trying to do it manually?
Jim ... they're the Bainbridge / ASAP product that you can use to provide a bevelled edge beneath an elevated mat ... Colleen's talking about how she cuts the angle of the "spacer" when she has an opening with angles other than 90 degrees as in the case of the 310 shape.
cut about three mats on the Wizard with 1/16" reveals, stick them together , gesso the edge and sponge a faux finish on it. This will a) look very good, and b) remind you never to sell such a foolish idea again @ hehehehe

N/B Bevel Accents = V/S Faux Fillets = Deep wrapped bevel mats.

These design embellishments typically dress up "classical" and simple rectangular openings.

Now granted that fundamental design rules can be broken, however complex openings tend to get cluttered when the addition of complex elements like Bevel Accents, etc.

I think that potentially more Grumble readers could & would answer your question better if they knew the complexity of the mat opening that you're making reference to (Wizard #310).....I'm sure it has a name, and perhaps a description on your part would help.

Remember that some Grumbler's don't even use a CMC, while many others use Fletcher F-6100's or Fletcher/Valiani CMC's or Eclipse CMC's, as well as Gunnar, SpeedMat, Berlyne and others. :D

The simple answer to your question, would be to make cut a bevel accent to fit any mat opening design, you simple need to do the math and calculate the angles.

I don't remember ever doing this but that won't stop me from taking a stab at it! I think what I would do is to go ahead and cut a double mat, the bottom representing the bevel accent ( use a piece of flaw board or other scrap of course). Take that bottom mat and cut it apart on a straight line cutter following the opening as a guide and use the pieces as a template for cutting the Bevel Accent pinwheel fashion as described in the Bevel Accent cutting instructions. Of course if you want to show more than just the bevel itself you will have to get the angles just right but I think even this could be done relativley easily using your cut up mat pieces as a guide.
By the way, # 310 has a rect. bottom to it and an octaganal top,ie: 6 sided. So you should have 45's and 22 1/2 angles. And I think it will look great, just remember next time how much work it was and the extra material used so you charge enough.
Terry, could you use the drop out as a template? Then go with the "pinwheel" method? Modified slightly to accomodate the atypical angles?
Thanks for the replies. I use bevel accents all the time,they are a great money maker. Easy to use creating great results.
I am creating this for that very special customer. She shops for art all weekend and every
Tuesday, rain or shine, brings in a new piece.
She picks the mats and frame and tells me to be
creative. Wish all of my cutomers were like her.
Just speculating Bob. Can't remember specificly doing this. Maybe you could use the drop out but you would have to come up with a way to draw from the corners out. Using the mat itself, cut into strips (be sure to mark the order) you would just lay them right on the bevel accent and trace the edge to cut. Seems like it would work. Useing the pinwheel method the actual angle of the cut is'nt as important as long as the bevel fits together nice since thats all you see.
The only problem with that approach is that cutting the bevel accents at an angle varying considerably from the typical 90 degrees corner would change the apparent length of the visible edge of the bevel accent, resulting in a mismatched width where this abuts the straight piece, and blowing the illusion of a seamless wrap. Since we usually "back off" the 90 by a couple of degrees when trimming these anyway, to insure a snug fit, I would recommend you just size them normally, and install them at whatever angle you need to, making sure to snug them up well at the joins (as Terry said). If you have to, you could trim away some of the excess foamcore from the strip's end, but a bit back from the visible edge, if you get my meaning. (In other words, you could cut away some of the excess foamcore but not all the way up to the wrapped and visible edge.)
:cool: Rick

P.S.: Wouldn't it be great if there was some kind of very simple drawing program built into the reply form on the Grumble?
yeah, i agree with rick...just "overcut" the angle where each strip meets and flush it up.
i find weighting down strongly the joint you're mating to helps to "flush" the bevelled edge to the bevelled face better.