I was introduced to Nielsen's Bevel Accents during the WCAF Show in January. Great product! I have a question regarding the "left over" pieces. The instructions indicate to slice the left overs a little less than 90 degrees so they can be used again. Instead of doing that, I cut them at a 45 degree bevel on my manual mat cutter. They line up as perfect miters when reusing them. Am I missing something? I do not understand the instrustions. Any help appreciated.
Bevel Accents Question
- Thread starter Jason
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I use them a lot - forget their instructions, they would have you use all four pieces in the box for all mats.
Cut off the first protruding length and use it for the next side where possible.
I cut it at 90 degrees so it butts up to the frame like everything else does, then bevel it on my matcutter.
(Edit, in the way that FramerDave describes below!!!)
[ 05-26-2006, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: RoboFramer ]
Cut off the first protruding length and use it for the next side where possible.
I cut it at 90 degrees so it butts up to the frame like everything else does, then bevel it on my matcutter.
(Edit, in the way that FramerDave describes below!!!)
[ 05-26-2006, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: RoboFramer ]
FramerDave
PFG, Picture Framing God
Jason,
You're doing the right thing by cutting the ends of the leftover pieces on a bevel. That's what lets them come together with the other piece the way it's supposed to.
I think you're running into confusion over the next part. Bainbridge recommends putting the strip in the mat cutter, bevel side down and to your left. Then scoot it just a little to your right and then trim just a little off.
Now you have the correct bevel on the end and it's sort of cut back a little. This will let you get it good and tight against the other strip with no gaps. It's the same principle as coping moulding before putting it up. Like crown moulding I mean, not picture frame moulding.
You're doing the right thing by cutting the ends of the leftover pieces on a bevel. That's what lets them come together with the other piece the way it's supposed to.
I think you're running into confusion over the next part. Bainbridge recommends putting the strip in the mat cutter, bevel side down and to your left. Then scoot it just a little to your right and then trim just a little off.
Now you have the correct bevel on the end and it's sort of cut back a little. This will let you get it good and tight against the other strip with no gaps. It's the same principle as coping moulding before putting it up. Like crown moulding I mean, not picture frame moulding.
Rob Markoff
PFG, Picture Framing God
Jason
It is MUCH faster to "pinwheel" the bevel accents than to mitre them. Also, by pinwheeling them you get a much tighter corner. I think there is a video from Nielsen on how to use them.
Interested? Contact your Nielsen/Nurre rep. If you can't find it, I may have one at my shop.
It is MUCH faster to "pinwheel" the bevel accents than to mitre them. Also, by pinwheeling them you get a much tighter corner. I think there is a video from Nielsen on how to use them.
Interested? Contact your Nielsen/Nurre rep. If you can't find it, I may have one at my shop.