tattoopoetry
Grumbler in Training
Using a table top mat cutter, when cuting multi openings what is the simplest way to got the spacing right on the double mat. I meausure a template on the back but they don't lways space out correctly 
Question Best way to cut a double mat with multi openings
- Thread starter tattoopoetry
- Start date
I used to cut the inner mat first, then put it face down on the back of the top matboard, using it as a template to draw the openings onto the top mat. I would do this using the thinnest mechanical pencil I could find to minimize parallax error, and with a light touch to avoid deforming the cut bevels. Then I would make a standard measuring device by placing two tick marks (let's say 3/16" apart) along the edge of a post-it note, which I would use to mark the spacing for drawing the lines around my traced boxes. After all tick marks were in place, I would connect them by drawing lines with a ruler to form the opening boxes for the top mat. Before cutting, I would take a red pencil and lightly mark diagonal lines across the corners of each opening to make the stop/start positions easy to see. Then I would just cut to the marks, making sure to keep the fallouts under the bar, avoiding accidental reverse bevels.
Now I just click "2" in the "number of layers" box and specify the reveal I want on the bottom layer. 1/8"? No problem. CMCs change your whole attitude about mat cutting.
But you already knew that.
Rick
Now I just click "2" in the "number of layers" box and specify the reveal I want on the bottom layer. 1/8"? No problem. CMCs change your whole attitude about mat cutting.
But you already knew that.
Rick
Framar
WOW Framer
I take my inside matboard and tape it securely but removably to the outer mat, do the layout and cut the inside mat, remove it, see all those little cut marks on the backside of the top mat, then re-mark and cut the top mat to whatever width is desired, based on the cutmarks - I can usually just eyeball it with a ruler.
OK - not a CMC - but it works!
OK - not a CMC - but it works!
There was an article in the May 2004 issue of PFM about this and we discussed it in this thread:
http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?t=4887&highlight=multiple+opening
There are also some pictures posted in the tread showing this technique. Since I don't have a CMC, I have used this technique quite a few times.
http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?t=4887&highlight=multiple+opening
There are also some pictures posted in the tread showing this technique. Since I don't have a CMC, I have used this technique quite a few times.
Framar
WOW Framer
In other words - this is the WYSIWYG method of mat cutting - when you lay out the inside measurements of the mat openings (which you do whether it is a single opening, double mat, or a multi-multi, right?) - what you see is what you get - so lay it out the way you want to on the back of the back (bottom) mat - and go for it!
Dancinbaer
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
When drawing out the openings on the back of the top mat also mark your reveal (1/4 or 1/8) but use a different color pencil (I use red) and extend your lines for the reveal to both edges of your top mat. As I draw the reveal lines I number or letter them at each edge.
Then cut your top mat as usual. ATG and lay your bottom mat as usual (I usually cut my bottom mat 1/2" smaller than the top which means it is 1/4" from each edge). Then using a long straight edge I draw the bottom mat openings matching the number or lettered guide lines along each edge.
As a final precaution, I circle the corners of each opening and put an "X" in the drop out area before cutting. Make sure you are cutting your bevel in the correct direction.
Then cut your top mat as usual. ATG and lay your bottom mat as usual (I usually cut my bottom mat 1/2" smaller than the top which means it is 1/4" from each edge). Then using a long straight edge I draw the bottom mat openings matching the number or lettered guide lines along each edge.
As a final precaution, I circle the corners of each opening and put an "X" in the drop out area before cutting. Make sure you are cutting your bevel in the correct direction.
Jared Davis CPF GCF
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
OK - It's easier to explain this by "showing" someone, but I'll try to do it in writing, so here are Jared's "8.5 Steps to cut a multi-opening double mat":
Step 1- Get your two pieces of matboard first, accurately pre-size your top mat first, and make sure your bottom mat is slightly smaller (1/2" - 1") than the top mat, all around.
Step 2 - Using some forgivable, removable ATG or tape, stick the two mats together (yes - before you even cut anything!) and mark the exact position of the smaller bottom mat, stuck to the back of the top mat, for future re-alignment (Step 8).
Step 3 - Using the front mat as your outside edges - accurately measure and draw all your openings in the bottom mat.
Step 4 - With both mats still stuck together - cut the openings out of the bottom mat (from the back - always make sure the opening is under the slideway of your matcutter!). No need for a slip mat in this case, because the top mat will perform the duties of your slipmat.
Step 5 - After you have cut all the openings for the bottom mat, seperate the two mats - removed the fallouts - and inspect the bottom of the front mat - you will notice scorelines from the blade, lining up where all the bottom mat openings were cut.
Step 6 - Use these scorelines on the rear of yout top mat, as reference guides, to help accurately measure and draw new parallel guide lines (1/3" or 5/16" which ever you prefer to use) outwards - around each opening.
Step 7 - Cut these windows out of the top mat, from the back (use a slip mat now!)
Step 8 - Re-stick your two mat layers back together (permanently this time) using the "alignment marks" you made at Step 2.
Step 8.5 - Post a Xmas Card to Jared!
Cheers,
Jared
Edit Note - In the 25mins it took me to write this response - 4 other responses were made.... Grrr..... !!
Step 1- Get your two pieces of matboard first, accurately pre-size your top mat first, and make sure your bottom mat is slightly smaller (1/2" - 1") than the top mat, all around.
Step 2 - Using some forgivable, removable ATG or tape, stick the two mats together (yes - before you even cut anything!) and mark the exact position of the smaller bottom mat, stuck to the back of the top mat, for future re-alignment (Step 8).
Step 3 - Using the front mat as your outside edges - accurately measure and draw all your openings in the bottom mat.
Step 4 - With both mats still stuck together - cut the openings out of the bottom mat (from the back - always make sure the opening is under the slideway of your matcutter!). No need for a slip mat in this case, because the top mat will perform the duties of your slipmat.
Step 5 - After you have cut all the openings for the bottom mat, seperate the two mats - removed the fallouts - and inspect the bottom of the front mat - you will notice scorelines from the blade, lining up where all the bottom mat openings were cut.
Step 6 - Use these scorelines on the rear of yout top mat, as reference guides, to help accurately measure and draw new parallel guide lines (1/3" or 5/16" which ever you prefer to use) outwards - around each opening.
Step 7 - Cut these windows out of the top mat, from the back (use a slip mat now!)
Step 8 - Re-stick your two mat layers back together (permanently this time) using the "alignment marks" you made at Step 2.
Step 8.5 - Post a Xmas Card to Jared!
Cheers,
Jared
Edit Note - In the 25mins it took me to write this response - 4 other responses were made.... Grrr..... !!
Framar
WOW Framer
Good show, Jared - you just described my WYSIWYG method perfectly!
Future Grumblers will appreciate this!
Future Grumblers will appreciate this!
what is the simplest way to got the spacing right
do NOT listen to these other , so called 'hex-perts'!!!!!!!
the simplest way to do this is to farm it out to someone with a cmc!!!!!!!
otherwise do a Jared 'splained(and make sure you don't score the top mat in the process--AND that the cutter bed is CLEAN) lol
do NOT listen to these other , so called 'hex-perts'!!!!!!!
the simplest way to do this is to farm it out to someone with a cmc!!!!!!!
otherwise do a Jared 'splained(and make sure you don't score the top mat in the process--AND that the cutter bed is CLEAN) lol
artfolio
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Personally, before I got my Wizard I avoided doing double matts with more than three openings and even those were a pain. Where you have three in a row you are making most of your cuts from the edges and aligning them is simple. Getting the cuts in the centres has to be done without the guides and this is where the trouble starts. With a single row you can always cheat a little, separate the inside openings and realign them individually by eye.
A good way to avoid this problem is to use black-core which is now available in some conservation boards too. It gives a similar effect to double matting and is a lot less trouble.
Alternatively, paying someone with a C.M.C. to do it can save you a lot of time.
A good way to avoid this problem is to use black-core which is now available in some conservation boards too. It gives a similar effect to double matting and is a lot less trouble.
Alternatively, paying someone with a C.M.C. to do it can save you a lot of time.
Couture's Gallery
PFG, Picture Framing God
faster and cheaper to farm out to CMC shop nearby (if possible)
GreenTea
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
I agree. After a colleague demonstrated the amazing capabilities of a Wizard - I will definitely farm out complicated, multi layer, multi opening pieces in the future.
My shop isn't large enough, nor will it ever be - to invest in a Wizard, but really - their capabilities are really impressive!!
Mikbaja
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
measure etc....cut top mat....place upside down on upside down bottom mat...mark both mats on one corner so you know how they go back...use a compass ( is that spelled right?) set to the size you want your reveal....trace all cuts being careful to hold it the same vertical- ness for each line....cut....flip over ...line um up.works great
caution do not place your finger on the setting wheel while you are tracing it will move on you keep your fingers on the top.
caution do not place your finger on the setting wheel while you are tracing it will move on you keep your fingers on the top.
Jeff Rodier
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
I walk over to the Wizard and pull out the cell phone, dial Dave in Ohio, ask how do I lay this out and 60 seconds late click cut. It always comes out perfect. Thanks Dave. Didn't even have to call for the second one today.
