attaching engraved name plate

Rosalyn

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Posts
374
Loc
Kansas
How would you attach a metal engraved name plate to the matboard?

Is ATG enough?

Thank you for your expert help.
 
The tape that comes on most brass nameplates is essentially a high tack ATG tape such as is used to attach fillets or the 5mil Scotch ATG tape. (The #'s escape me at the moment.)

If you have 1/4" fillet tape or something similar in the Scotch line, I would use that to attach the nameplate. (Use 2 strips of the fillet tape to make a 1/2" line of tape on the plate) Are you attaching it to matboard or glass? Some framers choose to attach the nameplates to the glass outside the frame package and I have used both methods with not a single failure in the adhesive. (But, then again, all my nameplates come with the adhesive already attached.)

I would talk to the trophy shop or whomever is engraving your plates and find out why they don't supply the double sided tape with the plates. Most nameplates already have the adhesive on them.

Framerguy
 
Customer provided the plate.

Don't have any fillet tape.

I have ATG and that's all so far.
 
I've used hot glue for years. Never had a single problem. Scuff up the back of the plate though.
 
Seven out of ten jobs that we do we put plates on them...ATG tape always works fine. But, consider mounting your plaque on the moulding itself. When we do that we use tiny little studs that we hammer in...it's a different look..but it some cases it looks better. ie, just did a small print with a six inch mat around it and put the plate on the moulding itself. It was a single mat so this was more effective..and different.
 
opps..forgot to mention that the plaque comes with the holes and little tiny studs..we use a local trophy shop. They sell them to us for $5.00 and we charge $10.00 extra for any plaque. We can get them in brass or silver or blue with the engraving showing through in black, dark blue, etc. Really nice effect.
 
Customer considered putting the plate on the moulding but wanted to chose a different moulding that wouldn't take the plate well.
 
I was think that too. Plus heating up the plate and burning my little fingers!


going to try the ATG. The customer is a close friend of mine so if it lets go no prob.
 
We do a lot of brass plaques...

I always order the plaque without adhesive, but with brass screws and holes in the brass.

I bend the plate (very) slightly so that it bows downwards in the middle, and ATG the back. The ATG holds the plate in position.

Then I cut the screws down (as they're always too long) to size and screw the plate down to the mats.

Screws look nicer (IMHO), and the combination of ATG + the mechanical fastener is fool-proof, over time (I think!).
 
Excellent idea! Of course plate in questions doesn't have holes and screws. But I'll remember that for next time and try to get the customer to get it done when getting the plate made.
 
ASAP Tapes, located in Tarzana, California, has a Super Tack ATG tape that is great for engraved plates. You can reach them at 1-888-355-8214 and ask for Neil or Michele.
 
Originally posted by printmaker:
Then I cut the screws down (as they're always too long) to size and screw the plate down to the mats.

Screws look nicer (IMHO), and the combination of ATG + the mechanical fastener is fool-proof, over time (I think!).
and the little pressure points digging into the glass, was doing . . . what?
 
Originally posted by Baer Charlton:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by printmaker:
Then I cut the screws down (as they're always too long) to size and screw the plate down to the mats.

Screws look nicer (IMHO), and the combination of ATG + the mechanical fastener is fool-proof, over time (I think!).
and the little pressure points digging into the glass, was doing . . . what? </font>[/QUOTE]Good point, Baer. Thank you.

My apologies... I didn't want to make my original posting too long and involved (actually, I just got lazy). It would be better and easier if I could post a diagram, but I'm so computer illiterate...
shrug.gif


Anyways, here we go. I hope this makes sense:

I always cut an opening in the top mat for the metal plaque PLUS (at least) an extra mat board spacer so that the metal plate is (at least) 2 mat thicknesses off the glass. This means that our screws are (almost, and at least) a full mat thickness off the glass ...

Also, I make sure that, whenever possible, that there are (at least) 2 mats underneath the plaque to give a bit more to screw into.

I hope that made sense. :eek:

This is one of our standard services. The customer writes down the wording so there is no later problems with spelling etc., and we do the rest...

As we've done this so often, we have a set charge for metal plaques in which we've incorporated the price for the plaque and markup, pickup (of the plaque), extra opening(s), spacers, "installation" of the plate, etc.

By the way, Rosalyn, it may be too late, but it is easy to drill holes in the metal plate to use screws. Screws are the same colour as the metal and so are classy (I think) but unobtrusive, so that you don't need much clearance between the screw and the engraved lettering.
 
So Printmaker.....Just how many mats do you have around this art? It sounds like four to me.

I'll go have another cup of coffee and read it again.
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I like the concept.

I do all I can to get the customer to put it on the moulding; it's a nice look and saves the glass. But, that's not always feasible.
 
Electrical grade hot melt (3M 3797 or 3748) are
made of polyethylene or polypropylene and will
not emit anything harmful. Look in the United
catalogue.

Hugh
 
It can be used to adhere boards to one another and
to assemble fillets and sinks. It has the advantage of bringing no moisture with it, so it
can be used on materials that will be framed,
shortly thereafter. It can also be used,in combination with metal/plastic sealing foils to
make highly sealed packages, but since it is
messy, 3M 979 ATG can be used in that role.

Hugh
 
Just weighing in with my opinion...

It seems to work out so rarely that we choose a moulding that will accomodate a plate (I like the look of it when it does, though) I just assume that the plate will go on the mat. I always cut an opening in the top mat a bit larger than the plate and use supa sticky atg to hold it to a mat board backing. It looks very nice and much more finished than just slapping on the top of the mat.

edie the andyoucanchargeforanextraholetoo goddess
 
Baer, I was going to use Framespace to keep the plate from the glass.

After I attempt to cut the little window for the plate as Printmaker suggests. Having never done it I'll probably end up with the Framespace for this one and practice up for next time. . .
 
Originally posted by Sherry Lee:
So Printmaker.....Just how many mats do you have around this art? It sounds like four to me.
Yes. The "mat sandwhich" is always, at least 4 mats thick, but quite often, we only double mat; other mat thickness are spacers. Again, it would be easier if I knew how to post a diagram but, here we go again... Let's take a simple double mat, an off-white over black, with a brass plaque:

- The top mat layer is the off-white. Two openings have been cut - one for the artwork and one for the brass plaque.

- The second mat layer is not seen; these are strips of matboard, fitted beneath the off-white mat, used as a spacer. This "spacer" not only looks elegant, but keeps the screw heads off-contact from the glass (assuming you're using the small brass "trophy" screws").

- The third mat layer is yet another spacer except that this spacer covers the entire brass plaque opening, as well. The plaque will be attached to this mat. (This gives a more subtle, sophisticated and less intrusive appearance than having the plaque attached to a black background ... just personal preference here.)

- The fourth mat layer is the bottom (black) mat. Only one opening (for the artwork) is cut as, for the plaque opening, the black will be covered by layer 3 above. This black mat provides the second of 2 mats through which to screw the plaque down. Again, the screws have been cut (easy to do) so that they do not penetrate the back of the bottom mat.

If you've gotten to this point, congratulations! If you've understood the above, even more so!!!

Once you have the knack, it's fairly fast and quite easy. If you have a CMC
thumbsup.gif
, your second mat layer or, at least, parts of it, can be cut separately either from scraps, or at the same time from fallouts from your top or bottom mat.

Wow... a diagram would have been a lot easier!
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