Archival Mounting of a World Series Program ......

Framerguy

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Apr 12, 2001
Posts
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Location
Destin, Florida
It seems that off the wall framing hits my frameshop in groups sometimes.

I had a customer bring in a Baseball program from the 1915 World Series along with a baseball ticket from the 1916 World Series. (Don't know where the connection is on this one.) He wants the program mounted in such a manner that he can remove it easily to show the pages of the program and the picture of the Red Sox team on the back page. (Babe Ruth is pictured with the team as a young player.)

I suggested Mylar strips but he didn't like the idea of the shiny Mylar at all. I thought of sink mounting the program but thought I'd poll the "family" to see what y"all think about mounting this program.

I am going to use the short Boxers extender in that mahogany? color with matching cap moulding and want to hold the cap moulding in place with rare earth magnets so it can be easily removed without having hardware showing on the frame package.

Any thoughts?

Framerguy
 
Tom:

I framed a couple World Series programs and a Sports Illustrated from the '97 series with a sink mount. No problems with 'em.

Here's hoping to add another set of MARLINS WORLD SERIES CHAMPS programs to my collection soon.....
 
Tony,

Did you have any problem with the programs tipping forward in the sink mount when the frame is hanging? I am going to us WallBuddies to hang the frame but was curious as to whether tipping out of the sink mount was any concern.

I do remember a tip that I picked up in Jim Miller's shadowbox class in Sept. (during one of the periods that I was awake in the class :D ) where he used a small exposed flange of Mylar on each side of the sink mount to hold the item in place. If the sink mount were deep enough, you could push the program in far enough to cause the flanges to "flip" over the program and hold it in place.

(Good idea, Jim/Tom, I will try that along with the sink mount!!)

As an aside, Jim's class was NOT in the least boring and it was very informative to all who attended. I always like to take in the really important information with my eyes closed. It makes for a better absorbtion of material.


OK, Martinsville is about to start. Gotta run for some hot wings before the race. :D

FGII

[ 10-19-2003, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: Framerguy ]
 
Tom, if you use a sink mount, incorporate a wide ribbon or strip of mylar behind the program.

The strip is fastened at the top, extends behind the program, and sticks out and inch or so beyond the bottom.

Lifting up on the strip will pop the program out of its sink, eliminating the need to tug on the fragile pages to remove it.

Kit
 
I suggested Mylar strips but he didn't like the idea of the shiny Mylar at all.
All my web site framing for paper collectibles is Mylar encapsulated and I have yet to have anyone complain about its "shinyness". Once something is encapsulated and behind glass/acrylic the mylar doesn't detract from the presentation.

All my frames allow the user to change or get at their framed item at any time. There are some pictures of this on my site. I use a sink mat for the mylar encapsulated piece with a back piece of foamcore hinged to the sink mat, turnbuckles on the back and an 'S' hook on one side of the hanging wire so it can be removed. For standard sized pieces, I use commercially available mylar sleeve that are sealed on three sides. For other sizes, I make a mylar sleeve to fit.

For normal sizes magazines, comics etc, I don't use any additional backing. The sink area fomacore is chosen based on the item's thickness (1/8, 3/16, 3/8, etc). For thin pieces such as a program, I include the fallout from cutting the sink foamcore. If the mylar sleeve is at least 1/4" larger than the mat opening, then you shouldn't have any problem with tipping forward. A piece of mat board placed inside the mylar sleeve gives extra support for thin pieces.

This method has worked well for me and I have a growing group of collectors that have supported this well. Take a look and see if this can work for your project.

BTW, Any suggestions for improvement are welcome also.

[ 10-19-2003, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: Larry Peterson ]
 
Larry,

I appreciate the tips.

As I stated in my post, the customer wants to take the program out of the frame and be able to page through it to show others the 10 or 12 interior pages. Unless you have another perception of "encapsulation" than what I know of it, I can't see it working as a mounting procedure.

Let me be clear about what we discussed while the customer was in my shop. I spent probably 20 minutes getting as much of the background of this piece as he could supply, origin: was bought at the game by his grandfather, how he got it: passed down from his dad, condition: I pointed out that the yellowing around the left and right edges of the program was from many people handling it with who knows what on their hands and opening the program from those edges. The program is also torn about 2" into the interior from the page opening side which indicates to me that somebody did some rough handling with it.

I physically showed him what the Mylar strips would look like and how he could remove the program easily. He didn't like the looks of the Mylar strips running vertically down the face of the program. What can I say about that?

My recommendation was to encapsulate the program and place it in the frame package and leave it. It is supposedly worth quite a bit of money and I suggested that, with more people handling it, the condition could do nothing but deteriorate more. He didn't want to do that as he wants to show it off to his friends.

With all of that in mind, I think that I will do a sink mount with the Mylar flap retainers that I saw in Jim Miller's class and using Kit's idea of a Mylar strip behind to remove the program. I may fasten the Mylar to a piece of white rag board so the pulling pressure is spread over the entire back of the program.

Thanks to all of you for the tips.

Framerguy
 
I have created a mylar envelope that slips behind the front page of the program. You will still have the shinny sides, but nothing on the front.

I would still put this in a sink mat.
Dave
 
maybe this will help maybe not ;
We suggest making copies of the entire program. Then they can look at the inside any time they want. Keep it on a shelf someplace close to the frame or in a pocket behind the frame.
 
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