We work with a design company run by a woman I used to work with at another company.
She opened her own design company in 2001 and she has a slew of corporate, celebrity and other high end clients.
We have framed and installed a number of very large mirrors for her company and this is one of the latest ones.
About 111" x 53" double frame.
I did the best pattern match I could, centered the patterns and also carved and blended the corners on the outer frame...
This mirror was glued to the wall by the mirror company with the proper thickness of backing so that the frame could be attached to the wall and sit flush on the mirror without carrying the weight of the mirror.
I had to come up with a method of attaching the frame to the wall, we couldn't us z-bar or anything like that, the frame had to sit flush on the wall and on the mirror face.
I came up with a combination of VHB tape, Locktite Power Grab adhesive and then I drilled and installed on an angle a number of 3" long finishing nails hidden in the top and bottom edges of the outer frame pattern and hammered into the marked studs 16" apart.
We then puttied the finishing nail holes on site.
The nail holes were almost invisible even without the touchup because they were up high at the top and down low at the bottom of the edge patterns.
We took down the towel holders on the sides and the lampshades on the sconces to get them out of the way while we stood on the sinks to install.
I'm working on about 10 more mirrors for this design company and they are almost always very large and often in Floaters
which is a real challenge.
She opened her own design company in 2001 and she has a slew of corporate, celebrity and other high end clients.
We have framed and installed a number of very large mirrors for her company and this is one of the latest ones.
About 111" x 53" double frame.
I did the best pattern match I could, centered the patterns and also carved and blended the corners on the outer frame...



This mirror was glued to the wall by the mirror company with the proper thickness of backing so that the frame could be attached to the wall and sit flush on the mirror without carrying the weight of the mirror.
I had to come up with a method of attaching the frame to the wall, we couldn't us z-bar or anything like that, the frame had to sit flush on the wall and on the mirror face.
I came up with a combination of VHB tape, Locktite Power Grab adhesive and then I drilled and installed on an angle a number of 3" long finishing nails hidden in the top and bottom edges of the outer frame pattern and hammered into the marked studs 16" apart.
We then puttied the finishing nail holes on site.
The nail holes were almost invisible even without the touchup because they were up high at the top and down low at the bottom of the edge patterns.
We took down the towel holders on the sides and the lampshades on the sconces to get them out of the way while we stood on the sinks to install.
I'm working on about 10 more mirrors for this design company and they are almost always very large and often in Floaters
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