Problem Adhering a large heavy mirror on to a frame

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Oz framer7

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Jan 12, 2013
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HI, I am an Australian framer operating in Sydney and this is my first post.
I would really appreciate some advice for a hotel contract for mirrors i need to supply.
The hotel wants me to adhere the mirror on top of a frame, so that from a side view they will see around 1 inch of black frame and the mirror edge.

The mirrors are very large and heavy and are vinyl backed - 2m x 900mm (approx 80x36 inches) and weigh 30kg (around 66pounds)
the frame surface i will be adhering the mirror to will be around 3 inches (60mm) wide

We need to also attach 2 battens to the back of the frame for hanging.

any suggestions for what to use to adhere the mirrors to the frame will be much appreciated, as well as any other suggestions or advice.
We need to make over 100 pieces so its a big and important job for my small business

thank you

Steve
 
Steve welcome to the G.

Where will the mirrors be located ... bathroom ... or what !!

Kindest regards

Dermot
 
Steve,
Just checking....did you get this request by email or in person? There are a lot of email scams going around.

If it is genuine, I can't understand why anyone would want to see the edge of a mirror perched on a frame?
 
Ormond

We have two of that style mirrors in our home.....

Where the mirrors will be located is key to giving a practical answer to Steves's question ..... in fact there are many questions that need to be addressed if this project is not going to cause more issues than it is worth..... or cause problems down the line.... they are big mirrors by any standards....
 
osgood said:
Steve,
Just checking....did you get this request by email or in person? There are a lot of email scams going around.

If it is genuine, I can't understand why anyone would want to see the edge of a mirror perched on a frame?
Click to expand...
It is an order, not just an enquiry.
They wanted to frame it in the "frameless" aliminium frame, but we can't hang it in that frame
 
That seems like less than the weight I would expect - however, yes this is a style we have been asked to do for hotels ourselves (and have done a few). I always, always, every time, no matter what, always... add a mechanical support at the base of the glass (stainless box bolted from behind is preferred) and we kick the bottom out a small amount. Adhesive (watch Dermot skwirm) is typically "No More nails" as we normally find the demo date is a max of 8 years.
 
I would make sure that you have enough surface mirror to frame to give proper support.

Have you thought of routing out a channel for the adhesive? Say 3mm, so that the adhesive will not show on the surface. Also the raw surface will allow for better adhesion.

I would also consider construction adhesive.
 
Rob Markoff said:
The best adhesive for mirrors is one that is intended for mirrors and won't cause desilvering.

We use Gunther products and like them very much. Here is an Australian resource for ANYTHING glass related. We buy from CRL in the US and they are a great resource.

http://australianglasstools.com.au/...=search-input&query=Mirror Mastic - Cartridge
Click to expand...

Thank you Rob, I did contact them, and have come up with a solution thanks to their advice.
I'll let you know if it works

Steve
 
Hey there Steve,
This could be a very fraught with danger type of job.

Sounds like 4mm vinyl back mirror, designed for sliding wardrobe doors . . .

Are they asking for a flat faced black frame, the mirror edge is FEP polished, and whack that onto the front of the frame level to the edge ?
Then a couple of battens on back and mount to the wall ?

If so, could look quite nice, sounds like the sort of thing an archetect would come up with and include in a design without a lot of thought about practicality.

Ok, you should consider . . .

Although the vinyl backing might protect the glass paint and silvering from an adhesive like Maxbond or Liquid Nails, the bond will only be as good as the vinyl to the mirror backing paint.
This is not designed to be stuck up like this, and all the pressure will be on a few "s of perimeter of the vinyl.

You could key the frame by drilling hole through / around the frame, and ensuring plenty of adhesive gets through thef rame, then this is intergrally bonded to the vinyl backing.

If this has a cardboard backing (a thick paper) then I would immediately discount that type of mounting.
I'm even very suspect about doing it on a vinyl backing !

Normally you can't use anything on the back of mirror backing paints except for neutral cure silicone (the type for metal gutters) as it has no acidic driers in it.
Normal glass silicone can be acid cure, which eats into the backing paints and silvering to eventually stain it.

100 pieces is a great job, but not worth a risky liability issue in a week / month / year.
Did you quote this job originally ?
I imagine so, and if so, how did you figure on doing this then ?

If you glue anything, you would need to leave flat for a loonnng time to ensure bond is good and complete, that's a lot of bench space / time needed.
Do you have to deliver and install ?

Feel free to phone or email me to ask anything, or for more direct input.
Website and email in profile info.
 
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realhotglass said:
Hey there Steve,
This could be a very fraught with danger type of job.

Sounds like 4mm vinyl back mirror, designed for sliding wardrobe doors . . .

Are they asking for a flat faced black frame, the mirror edge is FEP polished, and whack that onto the front of the frame level to the edge ?
Then a couple of battens on back and mount to the wall ?

If so, could look quite nice, sounds like the sort of thing an archetect would come up with and include in a design without a lot of thought about practicality.

Ok, you should consider . . .

Although the vinyl backing might protect the glass paint and silvering from an adhesive like Maxbond or Liquid Nails, the bond will only be as good as the vinyl to the mirror backing paint.
This is not designed to be stuck up like this, and all the pressure will be on a few "s of perimeter of the vinyl.

You could key the frame by drilling hole through / around the frame, and ensuring plenty of adhesive gets through thef rame, then this is intergrally bonded to the vinyl backing.

If this has a cardboard backing (a thick paper) then I would immediately discount that type of mounting.
I'm even very suspect about doing it on a vinyl backing !

Normally you can't use anything on the back of mirror backing paints except for neutral cure silicone (the type for metal gutters) as it has no acidic driers in it.
Normal glass silicone can be acid cure, which eats into the backing paints and silvering to eventually stain it.

100 pieces is a great job, but not worth a risky liability issue in a week / month / year.
Did you quote this job originally ?
I imagine so, and if so, how did you figure on doing this then ?

If you glue anything, you would need to leave flat for a loonnng time to ensure bond is good and complete, that's a lot of bench space / time needed.
Do you have to deliver and install ?

Feel free to phone or email me to ask anything, or for more direct input.
Website and email in profile info.
Click to expand...
Thanks!!
 
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