adhere canvas print

Julie Walsh

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
In Memorium
Rest In Peace


Gone but not forgotten
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May 30, 2007
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Toronto, Canada
I've checked the searches for how to adhere a canvas giclee to a board, but remain confused!

I do not have a heat press! What adhesive should I use, how do I apply it/weight it, and to what substrate?

The customer brought this canvas in previously; it was laced but still has some 'billowing' going on and the customer has given permission to 'glue it down'.

Any thoughts??
 
Acrylic gel medium makes a great adhesive. I prefer matte because it doesn't show so much if it squeezes out the edges. You should be able to use it with any rigid support. Hardboard, Gator, what have you. Apply with a roller. Let it dry under weight for a day (cover with release paper in case some oozes out the edges.)
 
Thanks! I have both products here. Any thoughts which one may be better?
 
Thanks! I have both products here. Any thoughts which one may be better?

If you have both, either use up all of one or the other in order to replace with fresh, or use the one you have more of so that you won't have to replace either. Just depends on which sort of frugal you are...
 
Acrylic gel medium

Can someone recommend a good Acrylic gel medium for this type of use. Brand name and which distributor I can buy it at.

Thanks
 
Acrylic Gel medium by Golden; available at art stores
 
A word of caution:
If you are using a water-borne adhesive, such as acrylic medium or fabric glue, to mount a moisture-sensitive giclee on canvas, be careful about weighting it overnight. I did that once and found that the moisture had penetrated the canvas and the image had transferred to the underside of the flawboard I had placed under the weight. Fortunately it was a minor issue and did not affect the appeareance of the image, but I'll never do that again.

These days when I need to permanently mount a canvas giclee, I use Kool Tack E-2, which uses a low-temperature adhesive made for the purpose of mounting canvas and other textured surfaces.
 
You can also use Bienfang VacuGlue available in a half gallon from Larson Juhl. Product #14012. It can be applied manually.

This is what is recommended by The Chase Group who is the exclusive publisher for Dr. Seuss Artworks. They recommend using this adhesive and applying to 8 ply rag board and then reinforcing by attaching a strainer to the back of the mount. This is how we mount all of our Dr. Seuss L/E canvas giclees in our gallery.
 
Thanks Jim! Did I mention I don't have a heat press :o
Would a thin layer painted on the back and left to dry help? Perhaps it could seal the back, then I could apply another layer to the back, place on 8ply and then weight it?
 
Julie,
I think it would be best to roll out the glue on the mounting board. Rolling on the back of the print may more dificult to get uniform cover of glue. If you glob too much glue on the mount board, you can wipe away the excess.
 
Using a water-borne adhesive would be practical if you do not have a heat press and do not feel confident about pressing it with a clothes iron.

I suggest rolling enough adhesive onto the mounting board to bond the textured canvas (not too sparingly), then weighting it for only a couple of hours. After the adhesive begins to set up, remove the weight and allow the mounted canvas to dry thoroughly, such as overnight.
 
When I do it, I apply the glue (in my case, I use Frank's Fabric glue, but I have used United's as well) and put the canvas in place. Then I cover with a piece of brown paper, which is somewhat bigger than the art, and which covers all the glued area. I then hand smooth the canvas down, working from the center out on each stroke.

Pull off the brown paper and inspect for high places in the canvas mount. I hardly ever find them, but it has happened. If you find one, put ANOTHER sheet of brown paper on it and smooth again. Don't use the old one. Even if you are sure there is no glue transfer, bad things can happen, and its not as if we don't have plenty of brown paper from glass boxes...
 
The reason I'd choose gel medium in this case is that it's thicker/ has less moisture. Yes moisture transfer is a big concern. I assume the piece is replaceable. I forgot about Yes paste. I'd guess the moisture content of that is relatively low too. You might get away with applying a very light sealer coat to the back of the canvas & letting it air dry for a sealer coat. It's a tricky one but I've mounted a number of giclee canvases successfully applying the gel medium just to the board.
 
The reason I'd choose gel medium in this case is that it's thicker/ has less moisture...You might get away with applying a very light sealer coat to the back of the canvas & letting it air dry for a sealer coat.
I'm no scientist, but my understanding is that acrylic medium is a water-borne plastic emulsion, which is not water-soluble when it dries. Neither is Lascaux 360. On the other hand, starch paste, VacuGlue 300, SureMount, and perhaps some of the other adhesives mentioned here are water-based, which means they would remain water-soluble after drying.

So, Terry, your suggestion to use a thin sealer coat of acrylic medium makes good sense, since that coat would not be water-soluble later. However, that might not work if a framer tried the same tactic using a water-based paste, which could dissolve with the application of more paste.
 
I'm just guessing here, but since it was originally laced rather than stapled, the owner of the piece must be thinking that this giclee is of some value. As noted above, water based adhesives can cause problems if not used correctly.

Whatever way you plan on mounting this piece, it should be a reversible method. Granted, a mounted piece can be devalued by a potential purchaser down the road someday, but that is speculation, not a fact regarding this particular piece. Consider also, since it was laced to begin with, that it must also be a print on canvas or some other fabric material, trimming off that boarder or leaving it intact then matting over it should not affect the image itself. Consider also that it is an ink jet print to begin with, I doubt it's value will ever reach astronomical heights at a Sotheby's auction.

I would avoid any non reversible adhesives and would use a thin coat of Yes Paste and placed under glass weights over night. Excessive heat can destroy an ink jet print just as moisture can.

The way to insure your Yes Past is a thin coat is to lay your paste down with a three inch short nap painters touch up roller, then cover the wet paste with Kraft paper, then remove the Kraft, lay your print into position, cover with release paper, then glass weights. Be sure to have it on a very flat surface. Also, you must work fast, you will only have a working time that can be counted in less than a minute.

That, by the way, is the method used for mounting silk or other very thin fabrics, the Kraft paper picks up all the paste except for a very thin film that will be left on the mount board.

Good luck with your project.

-John
 
It is a decorative piece and it was originally laced because there was not enough carrier to stretch. It hangs at the bottom of a stairway and the ripples can be seen; just an annoyance really according to the customer.
 
Less has used PMA
 
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