Acrylite question...

[Twin2]

I'm using Acrylite for the very first time. I still have the protective covering on the front (after peeling back a bit to clear the frame lip - thanks Bob Doyle for that suggestion in another thread) and I'm just putting on the dust cover/hangers.

Once I finish the frame completely and peel the rest of the protective covering off the front, what is the best way to wrap up the frame to keep the acrylic as clean as possible before my customer comes to pick it up?

Is brown kraft paper okay to wrap the frame in, or should I just put it in a plastic bag?

I'd appreciate your suggestions.

Thanks

 

[Paul N]

Karen:

Either one is good.

I use plastic bags exclusively, and although I had some misgivings in the beginning about the plastic bag causing static electricity, this was never the case. IMHO, the transparency they offer is more practical than using Kraft paper.

 

[Twin2]

Thanks, Paul. I was wondering if the plastic bag would cause static electricity problems... good to know that you haven't experienced that.

 

[Twin2]

Wouldn't you know it?!? When I removed the plastic covering from the front, there was a noticeable black speck showing against the white mat. I waffled back and forth about taking it apart and removing the black speck, and finally decided that I just had to try to remove it. It ended up that the black speck was a flaw in the Acrylite and not a piece of fluff on the mat!! Of course, it had to be in a noticeable spot. I was definitely NOT a happy camper.

I cut another piece of Acrylite and finally have it finished; this time with no major black specks...

I wrapped the other piece of Acrylite in some Lineco paper (I figured it would have less fluff than regular kraft paper). It was a fairly large piece - almost 26"x30" and the speck is within 1 inch from one of the outside edges. I'm hoping I'll be able to re-use it for a smaller frame in the future. But now that the protective covering is removed from both sides, does anybody have any suggestions on scoring the sheet without damaging it? I just used a hand-held scoring tool to initially cut it.

 

[matt medium]

A clean work surface and a cork-backed steel ruler

 

[Rob Markoff]

The black fleck you saw is called carbon spotting. It is to be expected in extruded acrylic and there is a "tolerable" amout acceptable in Acrylite FF. If you want to insure that you will have less chance of carbon flecks, and that the manufacturer will take back acrylic with carbon flecks, you need to specify Acrylite FF3. It costs more but does resolve many headaches.

Are you fitting the piece blind? We always remove both sides of the masking when fitting, therefore knowing that the black flecks are in the acrylic before we fit the piece.

If you are using an anti-static cleaning angent like Brillianize (our favorite - others like Novus but we find it too greasy) you will find working with acrylic and the static problems you fear are minimized.

We buy cotton birdseye diapers and wash them and bundle them with a pump bottle of Brillianize for resale as an acrylic care kit for sale to our customers. For really "expensive" jobs we "gift" the care kit when the customer picks up the piece.

 

[Twin2]

Thanks for the helpful info.

Now, I know what the black speck actually was. Not sure if my local framing distributor carries the Acrylite FF3 - I just bought the case of Tru Vue Acrylite conservation clear (OP-3) that I know they carry.

Yes, I was fitting the acrylite 'blind', Rob; leaving the top protective covering on until the very end.

This was definitely a learning experience for me, and I'm sure the next time I use the product, it will go smoother.

I must see if I can get some Brillianzine for next time. As far as I know, my local supplier just carries the Novus products. I've seen Brillianzine mentioned a few times in previous threads on acrylic sheets.

 

[Puppyraiser]

One of the most useful things I learned on the Grumble is to use a dampened small piece of chamois (available at art supplies stores...hehehe) to 'kill' any static that builds up. In shadowboxes where the flumb appears on the reverse surface, rubbing with that damp chamois will drop the flumb and then you can tap tap tap it to the hiding place of your choice....

 

[RoboFramer]

One of the most useful things I learned on the Grumble is to use a dampened small piece of chamois (available at art supplies stores...hehehe) to 'kill' any static that builds up. In shadowboxes where the flumb appears on the reverse surface, rubbing with that damp chamois will drop the flumb and then you can tap tap tap it to the hiding place of your choice....

Whilst at the same time releasing flumbs-in-waiting from the rabbet, under folds in sports shirts, etc etc.

 

[Rob Markoff]

Another tip- if the acrylic you are using is paper masked (as opposed to film masked) - if you wipe the paper with a damp cloth before rollling off the masking (use a tube to roll off the masking from the acrylic) you will wipe off dust that may be attracted to the acrylic, lessen the static, and make rolling off the paper much easier.

 

[MarkyW]

If you are using an anti-static cleaning angent like Brillianize (our favorite - others like Novus but we find it too greasy) you will find working with acrylic and the static problems you fear are minimized.

Do you use that just on the outside, or on the inside also?

 

[Rob Markoff]

With paper masked, unless there is a real static buildup, I don't clean the inside. If I accidentially touch the inside or I feel it has a residue, then yes, I do.

On Santa Ana days in Southern CA I find it more necessary. You sort have to judge it as you go along.

I have found that microfiber towels in combination with Brillianize work very well.

 

[Jeff Rodier]

Here is alittle trick I learned this past year for cleaner. I have my customers go to the eyeglass department at Walmart and buy the eyeglass cleaning kit which includes the cleaner and cloth.

Walmart guarantees free refills on the cleaner for life. Just take in the bottle and they refill it for free. Many here know that I am a profesional bargain hunter and it just hit me while refilling my bottle that I use to clean my camera lenses and eyeglasses.

My customers love that I'm always looking after ther dollars. My customers stop by constanly and asked where to buy tons of stuff that they need.

 

[Twin2]

Jeff, I was wondering last night if my eye-glass cleaner & cloth would be suitable for cleaning the Acrylite. Great suggestion! It shouldn't matter what brand of eye-glass cleaner should it, so long that it is suitable for plastic lenses? That definitely would be a good alternative for my customers, especially if I find out that I can't get Brillianize in Nova Scotia.

 

[Jim Miller]

When static is the issue, there are several things you can do to reduce or eliminate static for a short time.

1. Use an ionizing gun on both sides -- the only way to eliminate static charge for a short time

2. Brush with a static-disippating brush after anti-static cleaning -- greatly reduces static

3. Wipe with anti-static cleaner and a static-disippating cloth -- greatly reduces static

4. Wipe with anti-static acrylic cleaner and microfiber cloth -- reduces static considerably

5. Wipe with a damp microfiber cloth or chamois -- reduces static somewhat

The only solution for long-term reduction of static charge is to use optically-coated acrylic, which has static properties similar to ordinary glass.

If you buy your Acrylite from a Tru-Vue distributor, it will have survived an extra inspection process, and will be the least likely to have flaws. If you buy Conservation Clear, Optium, or Museum Optium Acrylic, you can use the white plastic re-cling masking for protection in handling and transit. Remove it carefully just before fitting, keep it flat, and stretch it back on the surface after closing the frame.

 

[Twin2]

Good info, Jim.

It was Tru-Vue's Acrylite Conservation Clear that I was using - I guess the flaw got past that extra inspection process this time. My local framing distributor is going to issue me a credit, though.

I'll know for next time that the white plastic re-cling masking can be put back on for protection in handling & transit. Unfortunately this time, I wasn't careful enough removing it to keep it flat so that it would be re-useable.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I have to say again that this was certainly a learning experience for me.