Question Acrylic Varnish Sticking to Volara

[Eugenie]

I framed an acrylic painting using Volara to cushion the rabbet of a Roma frame. Now the varnish is sticking to the Volara tape. Is there an issue with acrylic varnishes and Volara? Is it a matter of the varnish having to cure, and -- if so -- what is the recommended curing time? Would felt be a better choice for framing a canvas painted with acrylic? I would be grateful for any information and guidance. Thanks!

 

[wpfay]

Makes me wonder if the piece got warmed up sitting in a car. The Acrylic mediums can be heat activated to be an adhesive for light fabrics and decorative leafing. Sticking to Volara is a new one for me. Can you find out the specific varnish used and get the tech sheets from the manufacturer?

 

[Jeff Rodier]

Curious how long the varnish had cured prior to being framed. I have a very large number of artist customers bring in paintings that are dripping wet going into ready mades to meet deadlines. There is one artist in particular that I know every frame she has considered since she brings several wet paintings with her.

She paints with oils and never has time to varnish so her fingers leave paint on the bubble corner protectors I use on my frames. She is very careful to never put her hands on a finish so only the protectors get painted.

 

[Eugenie]

Thanks to each for the input. It seems that the issue may well be an incomplete cure -- as opposed to simply drying -- of the acrylic. Nevertheless, it is disappointing not to be able to count on the Volara for a dependable cushion between a painting and the rabbet.

 

[Prospero]

Acrylic paints never really go totally hard. If you get a big dried lump of the stuff it is still remains slightly flexible. I use it a lot in finishing frames and have noticed that if I have partly completed frames leaning against each other, paint-to-paint, they will sometimes stick together at the point of contact. The varnish is basically paint without the pigment.
You could try silicone-backed tape on top of the Volara. Or if the paint isn't thickly applied, just line the rabbet with the tape.

 

[David Hewitt]

We have this problem a lot. Contacted the manufacturer for advise & they think its a chemical reaction. Happens with some paints and not with others. As for felt, the fibers are always an issue. We still use Volara with most, but assemble with very light pressure against the painting & the Volara. Our most preferred method is to space the painting from the rabbet slightly, using L-Brackets mounted to the back of the bars or archival mat board mounted to the sides.

 

[Eugenie]

Thank you for the responses and suggestions. Now I need to find silicone tape! I see that it is used in plumbing and has medical uses, but is there a particular one that would be suitable for contact with art?

 

[wpfay]

David, thanks for mentioning the mat board shims, I had completely forgotten about those. It is a simply elegant solution to the problem of paint sticking to the rabbet. I've used the technique for encaustic and heavy impasto painting in the past to great success.

Briefly, it is attaching a strip of rag board to the stretcher so that it protrudes slightly out from the face of the painting keeping the pigment from coming in contact with the rabbet. The frame is sized slightly larger to accommodate the mat board shim. I prefer 4-ply black rag for the job.

 

[Prospero]

The silicone tape I mentioned is actually sold by framing suppliers (in the UK at any rate) for sealing frame backs. It's not very good for this purpose as it won't stick to itself. It's also very aggressive adhesive which makes it a pain to remove. But it is occasionally useful when you want a non-stick-to surface. It's rather like self-stick release paper.


Wally's method is ideal for canvases. But a lot of artists paint on prepared boards where you can really attach stuff to the edge.