Problem Acid (I think) burned photo

Create a Post
T

tdratler

Grumbler
Joined
Dec 16, 2009
Posts
35
Loc
North Miami Beach, FL
Hello Everyone!

I'm a rank amateur framer who is trying to learn the craft before hanging out a shingle. In keeping with that theme, I've been matting and framing everything I can get my hands on.

My latest adventure is a request from my mother-in-law to re-frame an old photo of her and her older sister. The photo and frame are around 65 years old. The mat had gone brown and the backer board looks like a stiff piece of cardboard. The photo was taped to the mat with masking tape. I had no trouble getting it out of the frame and mat (I didn't try to remove the tape from the photo - I just cut the tape at the seam), but to no surprise, the photo seems to be exhibiting signs of acid burns. The back is heavily spotted with yellow/brown patches, some of which are leaking through to the front. (see attached pic).

I'm going to take a digital photo of the original and restore it as best I can, but with respect to the original: Is there anything I can or should do to prevent the damage from getting worse before attempting to re-frame it?

Thanks for listening!

-Tom
 

Attachments

  • damaged-photo.jpg
    damaged-photo.jpg
    13 KB · Views: 79
Hard to tell from the photo but looks like foxing which is mold spores. Send it to a conservator because it will continue to progress until it is properly treated.
 
I was afraid of that...

...given that it's been hanging on walls in S. Florida for half a century or more, with no AC for the first 30 years or so.

I'll see about sending it to a conservator, but I have a bad feeling that it will cost a bit more than we can afford right now.

If I essentially ignore the foxing and re-mat the photo with conservation materials, would that at least arrest the mold development?

-Tom
 
tdratler said:
...given that it's been hanging on walls in S. Florida for half a century or more, with no AC for the first 30 years or so.

I'll see about sending it to a conservator, but I have a bad feeling that it will cost a bit more than we can afford right now.

If I essentially ignore the foxing and re-mat the photo with conservation materials, would that at least arrest the mold development?

-Tom
Click to expand...

Nope. There's nothing about conservation materials themselves that arrest the growth of spores. Letting it air out could render them inactive.

Here's a link for you:
http://cool.conservation-us.org/byauth/nyberg/spore.html

Above all... never underestimate spores. They can cause very serious lung problems.
 
In a controlled environment it will progress slowly. It's not in any way severe now from what I can see in the photo.
 
A simple inexpensive way to treat mold spores is Thymol. You can find in a pharmacy, may need prescription. I usually build a small box from foamboard, place the art raised on a small platform, place some crystals in a jar under platform and seal for a few days. Also, you need to wear a breathing mask when working with chemicals..
 
Foxing is a mystery. No one can explain it fully, or cause it to happen experimentally. While metal particles and mold damage may be contributors, it is possible that foxing is actually localized oxidation, like a "tide spot" rather than the tide lines, which are so familiar. It does not occur in dry paper and the best answer is to keep the paper from conditions where the relative humidity exceeds 50% at 70 degrees F or 20 degrees C. Thymol and other fungicides cause paper to turn brown, when the paper has been exposed to them and is then exposed to light. All fungicides should be avoided. They do nothing about the old damage and can cause harm in the future. Briefly, all paper has spores in it and keeping it dry will prevent their growth and will stop water from moving through the paper and causing the oxidized portions of the paper from generating any sort of stain pattern.



Hugh
 
preservator said:
Foxing is a mystery. No one can explain it fully, or cause it to happen experimentally.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Rarely does one post radically alter my reality like this. I thought I knew?

Can I ask you to elaborate, and maybe speculate, just a bit more?

preservator said:
It does not occur in dry paper and the best answer is to keep the paper from conditions where the relative humidity exceeds 50% at 70 degrees F or 20 degrees C.
Click to expand...

Would you think that the typical framed package indoors would come close to meeting these requirements? If not then it seems to me that there is very little we can do to prevent foxing from a practical standpoint.
 
Trying to maintain good climate in an ordinary frame is quite a challenge, in the summer in most places and in the winter, in places with a heating season. Thing will get too wet in the summer and too dry, in the winter. The damp problem is exacerbated by damp walls (exterior or interior with water source on the far side).
Isolating the frame from the source of the moistue is a good start. Even a tape sealed package will hold off short term spikes, but beach houses and damp walls will challenge even the best frame packaging. Foxing is evidence of prolongued high humidity and maintaining good conditions will prevent it. There are myriad old books that are not foxed, after hundereds of years to prove that. In sum, keep your paper dry.



Hugh
 
Tom, find someone that can scan the image at a fairly high resolution. The original may be beyond recall, but the image can be salvaged through the wonders of PhotoShop. As with other relatively fragile items, it might be better to frame the resored copy and keep the original in storage.

Thanks Hugh. I can now retire my lab coat and get back out my wizard's cloak and hat.
 
Final thoughts...

I can't afford to send the photo to a conservator, and I'm disinclined to do anything that might make matters worse. As it happens, the damage to the front of the photo is minimal. Just a couple mold spots in non-critical areas, some dirt, and the fading one would expect given the age of the photo.

I going to take the photo to a Kinko's and get a high resolution scan of it and send it off to a photo restorer for a digital makeover. In the short term, I'm going to re-mat the photo with modern materials, seal the package to prevent further damage, and put it back in the original frame. Then I'm going to print a copy of the restored photo and frame it properly for my mother in law's birthday.

It's a win-win. I learned something new, got a new project to practice on, and I get brownie points with the wife and MIL for a thoughtful birthday gift. :)

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful advise!

-Tom
 
Last edited:
Wash it

I guess as a photographer I would see if you can find someone that knows a thing or two about archival darkroom developing. I would have them re-fix the photograph and properly wash and dry it. Back then there were no RC papers for photographers and they were all fiber paper. fiber paper would take more time for the chemicals to get all washed out. sometimes photographers woud be in a hurry and not do all the steps properly or not change chemicals as often as they should, eventually causing spots.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top