Opinions Wanted A riveting design challenge!

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CAframer

CAframer

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Nov 19, 2003
Posts
3,834
Loc
Orange County, CA
I am framing a rivet from the Golden Gate Bridge, and would appreciate some design ideas.

Mountboard choices?
Currently I'm thinking of using a muted image of the Golden Gate mounted and then cut as a cove mat.

But would like other ideas!!!!!

Maybe something like this, but I probably need to play more with color saturation and hue.
Golden_Gate_Bridge11MOD2.jpg


One of the problems I'm having is finding an image that has enough space around it to run up the side of the cove mat without impinging on the bridge itself (i.e so the bridge sits in the tray section of the cove mat). The one above would probably be OK but I'm still looking. Many of the GGB images have too much of the bridge too close to the margin.

Also I'm not wedded to the cove mat / image concept, so other ideas welcome!

Mounting method?
Also I'm not sure how best to mount the rivet. Perhaps an acrylic holder that will support it at an angle. I think it looks best if you can see the 'shaft' and the 'head' and the where it has been cut off at the 'base'.

IMG_2274.jpg


IMG_2276.jpg


You can see that it doesn't work as well if you view it only from the 'head':
IMG_2273.jpg


Frame moulding?
I'm also interested in ideas for the moulding. The rivet itself is about 1.1/2" diameter x 1.3/4" tall. Add some kind of acrylic holder and I probably need around 2.1/4" rabbet depth.

Colorwise something like Nielsen Elements Coin Copper might look good, but if I used that I have yet to figure out how to stack it for depth.

Also dependent on how I end up mounting the rivet, I'm also contemplating building the frame as a front opener.

Pricing?
Fortunately money is not an issue in this case!:):D:):D The only issue is to come up with a stunning design!

Appreciate any and all suggestions!
 
I am not a professional, but as soon as I saw your picture, I thought how neat it would be to have actual string mimicing the cable pattern, in front of the cables in the picture. Like those string pictures from the '70's where string is wrapped around pin-pegs to form a pattern.
 
Have you gone to the Library of Congress site for the bridge pictures. There are tons of them there and many are from the construction period.

Also for the moulding go to Design Guild Moulding and the have some beatiful items with a silver leaf base that has heavy dark toner and pinkish red hue. These have a rivet receptacle type pattern in them. I will look up the numbers if you would like.

How deep does it have to be?

Found it.

http://www.designguildmoulding.com/user_catalog_details.asp?productID=7018
 
How about using an acrylic box, so that frame depth isn't an issue? Then you have a much wider range of choices.
 
Rivets and mending plates like the Max moulding that Rick linked to are easy peasy with a little chisel work and patina paint from Michael's across the street. Then you would have a frame just the depth you need.
Otherwise, custom convexed museum style glass is a great option.

If you're printing out the image, you could always do the stacked print diorama style and mount the rivet in the deepest sky area.
 
The industrial details on those Max profiles are raised, not debossed. They are very cool looking "in person". I have also been known to start with a textured simple profile like Nurre's Cintra, and drive interesting looking fasteners into the surface at intervals just for show. It's easy to do, looks cool, and gives me an excuse to haunt the hardware store for ideas.
:cool: Rick
 
mounting the rivet .. how about a piece of sheet metal mounted at about 30degree angle. have the metal rusted or paint to the color of the bridge.
Cut slots in the moulding so it will slide in from the back.
drill hole in metal and just drop the rivet in loose.
 
I've been meaning to post some pictures from this job for a while now - I finally got around to it! Better late than never!

I used Max Moulding F691346 for the frame, stacked two-up to give adequate depth. Before joining the bottom frame of the stack I trimmed off it's rabbet lips and sanded the faces flat. Top and bottom frames were stacked with Corner Weld and 23g pins.

I Photoshopped the image to get desired color hue and saturation, then drymounted it to 4-ply before cutting the cove mat on my Wizard.

I was originally going to use an acrylic mount for the rivet, but changed my mind and used a slight sink for the back of the rivet's head to nestle into, and then used a 1/4" Melinex strap around the shank.

Museum glass, and WallBuddies finished it off.

IMG_2480MOD.jpg


IMG_2478MOD.jpg
 
Looks fantastic! Just the frame I was thinking of! :)
 
Nice job.....
 
Very, very cool! How did you mount the background picture to conform to the angled sides and back?
 
Dancinbaer said:
Very, very cool! How did you mount the background picture to conform to the angled sides and back?
Click to expand...
Drymounted it to 4ply first.

Then cut the cove mat using Mixed Template 101/614 on the Wiz..

Then folded up the cove, reinforced folds with linen, and added angle supports.

Easy when you say it fast!
 
Really a GREAT JOB!!! I think it turned out awesome!!! soooooooooooo how many times did you mess up that mat??;) :D
 
Nice Andrew!

Won't get anything like that at the BB's!

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

That Max moulding is cool. I haven't dealt with them. Have to check them out.
 
Outstanding! A great effect all around.
 
blackiris said:
soooooooooooo how many times did you mess up that mat??;) :D
Click to expand...

Not too bad actually! Mainly because I used a fair bit of technology!

First I used Excel to compute the 101 template tray size given my fixed dimension for the photo together with my desired inset and height. Excel also gave me the necessary angle width parameter for the cove setting on the 614 spike template.

I then added a third layer 101 to cut a rectangular opening equal to the overall dimension of the cove/photo. The mat was cut with the 'cut outside' box unchecked. After cutting a test mat this then provided an accurate template to ensure exact placement of the photo when drymounting.

Overall I needed one extra test mat to adjust sizing, and another to make sure I had the correct blade depth setting when scoring the tray.
 
Wow awesome!!! I love how the red/orange of the rivet pops out on the muted background.
 
Wow! Your design is beautiful, elegant yet understated. I love how the simplistic nature of the design makes such a powerful statement. Thanks for sharing.
 
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