A cross stitch that won't lay flat?

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Puppiesonacid

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Mar 10, 2008
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I just had a customer bring me a cross stitch. i pinned it to my stretching board to make it square. but it will not lay flat at all. the 2 opposite corners are fine at a diaganol, but its scrunched up on the other 2 corners. i double checked to see if the thing was stitched square, and it is. and also to see if i pinned it on the same lines, and it is. i haven't done a million of these, but have done enough, and this is the first time i have run into this.

any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks
 
Long shot, but is your board square? Are the diagonals of the board and the stitchery equal? If so, you could try adding some batting to take out the scrunching. Good luck, some stitcheries are just PITAs.
 
well. it looks straight to me... i mean... maybe i need to take a pict and post it. it will need a lot of batting. and its getting glass and a mat. i think the think yarn they used is what is making it out of whack. i may have to call them and show the customer what is going on... will lose the job most likely. but what can you do.
 
Well if its yarn then it's not a cross stich but a needlepoint, And then if its a needle point it might need to be blocked first.
 
ok. its a needle point.... sorry. and i am blocking it.... thats where it won't lay flat. do i just make it crooked to make it flat? and then will it eventually work its self out? i will post pictures in a bit. got to go home first to load the picts on the other computer where the program is loaded.
 
the picts

here are a few picts to look at. hopefully these help.
 

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Have you dampened it?

There doesn't seem to be much tension on those pins and these things really do need to be pulled and held while they dry.

I dampen with a mist of water from the back and before I pin it to my board, (I use aluminum nails) I grab opposite corners and gived it a real good tug and hold it there for a while - it helps.

Then I pin along the top, pull it square, well, so at least two sides make 90 degrees and then pin the side I needed to pull to make it square. It may need puling down as well as over, to take up slack like you have.

Then pin the bottom row then the other side.
 
yes. i put water on it. i will try what you said. guess i will add more water. its just everything thing i have blocked so far in a square patter turns into a square. this one as you can see did not. so its why im a bit stumped it turned out this way.

if it werent' for selling frames with these things i would turn them down every time.
 
Have you tried steam from a hot iron? I wouldn't press the iron directly against the needlepoint, just position it an inch or so above, and steam it. The combo of moisture and heat may do the trick.
 
PaulSF said:
Have you tried steam from a hot iron? I wouldn't press the iron directly against the needlepoint, just position it an inch or so above, and steam it. The combo of moisture and heat may do the trick.
Click to expand...

OK.................PLEASE DO THIS ON THE BACK FIRST!!!!!!!!
YOU can stretch this......straight....just make sure your FC or or whatev is straight to begin with !! ITs not that hard .........I use batting under it too! :D
 
Slowly work it out. Dampen, streach, dry repeat. Keep the pins further away from the art. I would sugest you get a real blocking board. Easier to work with, inert white metal nials rather than pins, no slipage from the pins shifting position and squared lines to guide you.
 
Those little baby T pins are going to make this a lot of work. You need a masonite blocking board with the aluminum nails. Some needlepoint needs 2 or 3 rounds on a proper blocking board.
 
I was taught to use a solution with a couple tablespoons rubbing alcohol per cup of water for blocking. I never had trouble with it. Have I been wrong all this time? Is there a reason I should have been using just water all this time?

My two cents would be to just wait and let the water do its work, before adding more. You don't want it soaking wet! Unless I'm wrong on that, too. Oh, fiddlesticks. I thought I could help but now I just think I was doing wrong all this time.


***Edited to add, yes definitely get a good blocking board. Makes a world of difference!
 
T pins definitely not strong enough. Do as others said and get a real blocking board and use the aluminum nails. I usually roll needlepoint in a damp towel for a few hours to give it time to loosen up without soaking. Some just take more work than others. This one doesn't look to be really all that bad. Good luck!
 
where do you get a real blocking board? ive looked on line and stores in the area. haven't found one. thanks
 
Call me crazy but I've never seen this technique before. (It doesn't look like blocking and it doesn't look like stretching...)

If its stretching...how are you stretching the cross stitch/needlepoint if its not pulled over the edges of the board?
There's no tension to make it lay flat.

If its blocking, why not just go ahead and stretch it rather than trying to block it first? (It doesn't look that out of shape to me...)

Avoid misting if you can. Some floss vendors are skimping on quality and the color can run...

Here's a basic article on lacing

http://www.cross-stitching.com/kh_page.asp?id=172

Ignore the bit about tape. Avoid it.

I use my attach-ez now. It's never been easier.
 
Ditto on what Janet says...watch the water, it could run. I would test the threads by clipping a few straglers on the back. Now and then they do run, and it's not a pleasant situation.

Susan
 
You need a solid blocking board with nails or staples to hold it tight. Measure the sides of the piece and attach the longest side of the needlework to the board. Now determine which adjacent side has to be pulled to a right angle and work that side next. This is where a little steam helps. Then work the remaining sides. On a really uneven piece you may have to go around a few times relaxing with steam and pulling until the whole thing is evenly flat and square. Then let it dry and stretch. Some of the 24" x 36" pieces poorly stitched came be a real chore.
 
Puppiesonacid said:
I just had a customer bring me a cross stitch. i pinned it to my stretching board to make it square. but it will not lay flat at all. the 2 opposite corners are fine at a diaganol, but its scrunched up on the other 2 corners. i double checked to see if the thing was stitched square, and it is. and also to see if i pinned it on the same lines, and it is. i haven't done a million of these, but have done enough, and this is the first time i have run into this.

any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks
Click to expand...

Just a quick help.....mix a little rubbing alcohol in with the water and mist it, block it, mist it, block it, and let it dry over night...not too wet. That should help a lot.
 
The blocking should be done face down. Let it dry completely between steps. Slide your hand accross it while strething for the blocking process. Working face up could cause the dye to sreak onto a light color.
 
You should be able to get a blocking board from Larson or United. Otherwise, check with stitchery shops in your area. A lot of them carry blocking boards for stitchers who block their own pieces.

-You can block the piece either face up or face down, but... keep in mind that if you block it face down it will squish and flatten the stitches - and the texture of the stitches are part of what makes needlepoint have the look it has.

-You can block the piece more than once, just wait for it to dry (keep reading) between blockings. Each time you block the piece, it gets easier, and the fibers soften up and become more elastic.

-The best way to soften up the fibers so they can be blocked is to use to a steam iron 1/4" ABOVE the piece. Don't let the iron touch the piece since it can flatten the stitches or create shiny spots!

-Pin one side first, then steam. Then pin the next side and steam again. Work your way around until you have it all pinned. (Pins/nails should be placed about every 1/4" to 1/2".) If it isn't perfectly straight, let it completely dry (at least 2 hours), pull the pins out and block again.

-Let the piece dray laying horizontally - don't stand up the board while it dries.

-You do have to be careful about not getting the piece too wet so that the colors don't run (although MOST shouldn't, some do!). The steaming technique should keep the piece from getting too wet.

(In case anyone wants to know, I got this information from "The Needlework Doctor" by Mary Kay Davis. I have done a few needlepoints that were REALLY skewed - one was stitched back in 1975 and had never been blocked - it was almost warped 45 degrees, but it came out straight in the end!)

Why the pieces warp:
If they use Continental or half-cross stitches, they will warp the piece. If they use a basketweave stitch it won't warp the piece. The basketweave stitch will stableize the piece even if there are other types in stitching involved. If you have a new stitcher who brings in many warped pieces, you might suggest that they try to use a basketweave stitch to help keep the piece straight!
 
In the past 30 years I have never blocked one face up and there is no effect to any knid of stitch. Let it dry completely on the blocking board or it will return to the previous condition.
 
combo of moisture and heat may do the trick


OR............it might be the hiway to making the yarn(if it is wool) shrink beyond recognition/redemption!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! suggest you must 1st ascertain the materials used-----call the customer get them back before you go further from the path(as in dont screwup the art!). I've had a couple of these(from the same lady) but not this deviant! I just kept sptrizing/pulling until they almost(but NEVER quite) laid flat
 
actually i used brute force and water and so far its straight. im scared to take it off the blocking board :shrug: i have to though.

but im pretty sure the lady has NO idea what it is made of. i think she bought it.
 
a word of caution>>>>

Just make sure that the steam out of the steam iron is clean - before you use it. You do not want to end up with "brown" spots on the needlework.
It is a lovely piece - if it was mine to do, i would have asked the customer to block it and then bring it in to be framed....
Uta
Island Art Gallery
:soapbox:
 
UTA KIRCHLECHNER said:
It is a lovely piece - if it was mine to do, i would have asked the
Click to expand...

This really is the type of professional service that we sell and all should have a seperate blocking fee on their price chart/POS. If we are going to compete in the framing world we need to be able to perform all of the specialized tasks that make up our profession.

A simple measurement diaganally from one corner to the othere versus the 2 opposing corners will tell you if it is square. If the 2 measurements are different it is out of square.
 
unless wrinkled. it looked square other than that part :)

measured fine pulled to a wrinkled square. but i know what you are saying.

and yes... we do have to do everything... yeah!!! i could bring up the topic of jerseys, but im sure its somewhere on here already. as in how many people add foam to the inside as opposed to just pin them to the board and let them hang? hehe.
 
In my experience some needlepoints require multiple blockings. The tension of the individual stitcher can be the issue. Other times it is the combination of fancy stitches such as french knots, checkerboard patterns and turkey work that cause me grief. They will make for unmovable sections next to sections that will accept the stretch of the blocking. Sometimes you will find it is necessary to block inside the needlework to help it bend to your will.
From looking at your in progress photo if I may, can make another suggestion? Put your pins in a half inch away , yes it will disfigure the weave of the canvas, that is just the way it is. The scallop effect of the pin being so close will also give you trouble when it comes time for the final stretch. No client wants to see the pull marks from blocking scalloping along beside the straight edge of the mat.
 
puppies,
Don't know if you ever got your hands on a true blocking board....I have several if you want one. I checked the label, it was maked United Blocker. I use these alot even for stubborn crosstitch pieces, not just the needle point stuff. Some stitchers just take out all their stress on their needle and thread and leave it to their framer to make it look spiffy. I have one customer whose cross stitch on plain ole aida cloth takes longer to block than a tapestry. Cross stitch normally should only require a stretch.
Anyway I would be happy to give you one of my extra boards if you want it. I think one of my customers just gave it to me....so if you need it drop me a line.
Oh, and when I do use my blocking boards with the aluminum nails, as aforementioned, I use a ton of 'em, start on opposing sides with the piece dampened (depending on the material of course, be careful folks...stitchers are useing some expensive fibers these days that ARE NOT ALWAYS COLOUR FAST!!)..as you work say from the bottom left working the nails in and down from the top right working the rhombus shape out (Is that the shape I mean? trapazoid?) into the correct rectangle. For me, this sometimes takes several go's. And if it done correctly, and left to rest over night, then it is ready to behave for the morning.
 
It appears to me that this needlework is a Petit Point, which will generally have more issues with stretching to get it straight because of the tighter weave of the stitches. If you go to my web site and click on How it works and then keep clicking through until you come to EZ-Stretch, you will see a sample corner of a completed Petit Point that was stretched using the fine fabric tool and using the Attach-EZ method to stretch it. I have also stetched a Petit Point, which is displayed on my first DVD, that was 2 x 3' fully covered with stitches and very out of shape to begin with, and this method worked great. If you want to call me, 1-800-527-1529, I will try to help you find a way to strech this Petit Point. This type of needlework can be a challenge if it is very out of shape, and from my experience, most are. www.attach-ez.com
 
I also always used a blocker board, and blocked face down ( never had any problems ) sprayed the back with Distilled water only, and rolled in a white towel. Then Blocked, alot of times the same piece was blocked more then once, but always let dry on the board between. Those crewels could be buggers, I'll take crossstitch any day over needlepoint, except if it's some 48 count linen!
 
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