8-ply suede??


Cliff Wilson

My question is, why?

When I saw it at a distributors open house and asked the same question, the rep couldn't really give me an answer that I liked.

Then, the corners were delivered today.

I still don't get it??

Most of the time when I use suede it's with a fillet, or I reverse bevel it. I think the white bevel detracts from the texture of the suede. If it was a color coordinated core, maybe? But even that seems too much. Now, they come out with 8-ply white core on some suedes. Again, I ask why? Do you like it? Will you use it? For what exactly?


P.S. They added some Museum Solid Rags that increase my solid color Rag offerings and I like those a lot!
I agree about those big, glaringly white bevels but they do give you a larger surface to paint or gild.

I missed Atlanta this year so I didn't know anything about new 8 ply suedes until this thread.

Who knows, Cliff. I don't see much need for an 8 ply suede but then I didn't understand any of the implied remarks about AEZ during its introduction either so I may not be the best judge of new products.

Maybe we should wait and see what the reaction is to these new boards. I don't forsee using many 8 ply suedes in my shop but you never know what will pique the interests of our customers.

(I am still waiting for the new set of 4" Bainbridge samples that were promised to me back in June by the NB rep. so I may never actually see&nbspthese new suede samples.)

If they are Crescent or another brand, I still may not see them in my shop.


I had the exact same thoughts as you for the same reasons. Odds are I will not sell many of these, but it does give another option. I plan to show some to my customers that really like suede to get a feeling from them.

What has surprised me the most is the number of discontinues from Crescent this year. It was 184 product numbers.
I have the samples, but I don't know how to price them, so they haven't made it to the design counter.

So, is 100pt. the same thickness as 8-ply? It appears to be.

Kit, I'd be interested in any tips for painting the bevels on suede mats. I like to premask the board before cutting the window, but suede has always defied my attempts at masking, so I don't color the bevels on suede. I'd sure like to.
Sorry Framerguy, They are Crescent. Should've made that clear.

Ron, the rep called them "8-ply."
Tony, ask Kassandra how to do that, unless the answer is, "Very, very carefully."

<strike>Inquiring minds</strike> I want to know how to mask suede.

I love colored bevels on 8-ply rag or even the Bainbridge Ultrathick Alphas.
I could see using it on large shadow box backing.
It's been years since I painted a bevel; these days I mostly just stick in a fillet. I used to use the 3" wide package tape from the post office to mask suede.

Ron, if you try that and it rips the surface off the board, it's beacuse I'm remembering incorrectly. Coulda been something else. (That was a big help, wasn't it?)

Well, at least you've given me some hope that there is something that will mask suede so the paint doesn't bleed into the fabric.

If it's a false hope, I might be billing you for a dozen sheets of suede (probably 40x60) that I'll trash while I experiment.

I finally gave up on masking raw silk and started wrapping the silk around the bevel after cutting through the board (and not the silk - usually.)

That would be loads of fun with an 8-ply suede, wouldn't it?
Here's my attempt not to get billed for alot of suede mats with paint splotches:

1. Don't use a round brush; use a flat one about 1/4" inch wide.

2. Start the stroke on the tape and paint down over the bevel.

3. The brush strokes should run perpendicular to the cut edge rather than parallel.

You probably already knew that but it's gotta be less fiddly than what you're doing with silks.

How does that work? Do you cut the silk, peel it back away from where the opening is going to be, cut the mat, then re-attach the silk?

Or do you make the cut v-e-r-r-r-y carefully through the backing, leaving the silk intact? I'm guessing this would be by hand and not with the mat Maestro. Can you adjust the blade depth on that machine with enough accuracy to not penetrate the silk?

I have no intention of doing either of these things; I'm just curious.

make the cut v-e-r-r-r-y carefully through the backing, leaving the silk intact
That would be it. I use the Fletcher 2000, since precise blade depths are not in the Mat Maestro's job description.

When it works, it looks like a hand-wrapped silk mat (only harder :D .)
We paint the bevels on suede like any other board. Mat magic paint can be scraped off of the suede if it seeps on to it. We also paint linen and silk, but it looks pretty tacky from my point of view.
Lately I've been using removable scotch tape to maske suedes for painting. Sometimes I use gouache since it has a lovely mat finish and depending on how many times you go over it, it has a variation of color that looks just like the suede. Is gouache similar to the mat magic paints?