Elaine
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I need some advice on how to hang a 4' x 7' mirror,hardware, and any other advice on the complete package.
Thanks - Need ASAP
Elaine
Thanks - Need ASAP
Elaine
4' x 7' Mirror - Suggestions on Hanging & Hardware
- Thread starter Elaine
- Start date
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
A hanging cleat built into the frame and another
screwed into the wall should give you a maximum
of support and ease of installation.
Hugh
screwed into the wall should give you a maximum
of support and ease of installation.
Hugh
FrameMakers
PFG, Picture Framing God
Z-bar for hanging. This is like a cleat but thinner. On mirrors this size I like to glue and screw a sheet of masonite to the back of the frame first, then the Z-bar. This will transfer the weight across the hole frame and not just on the top 2 corners.
FrameMakers
PFG, Picture Framing God
Make sure the Z-bar is screwed into studs!
Wall anchors or mollies will shred drywall under this much weight.
Wall anchors or mollies will shred drywall under this much weight.
Frank Larson
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Diver Dave is right on the money for this job. The only difference is I prefer 1/8" or 1/4" plywood instead of masonite to cover the back...it's lighter and stronger. Z-Bar works fine but if you want a heavier duty cleat try Brooklyn Hardware out of Portland OR. Brooklyn Hardware
Tip:
The only problem with cleats is if your wall has a bow in it the cleat can actually pull the frame to match causing a distortion in the mirror. A handfull of shims can cure the problem easily. Just use a straight edge on the cleat once you have it on the wall and shim out any low studs. I slide the shim upwards under the cleat beside the loosened screw and break it off when everything's straight and tight. Shims are available at any home center or lumberyard.
[ 04-26-2003, 10:23 PM: Message edited by: Frank Larson ]
Tip:
The only problem with cleats is if your wall has a bow in it the cleat can actually pull the frame to match causing a distortion in the mirror. A handfull of shims can cure the problem easily. Just use a straight edge on the cleat once you have it on the wall and shim out any low studs. I slide the shim upwards under the cleat beside the loosened screw and break it off when everything's straight and tight. Shims are available at any home center or lumberyard.
[ 04-26-2003, 10:23 PM: Message edited by: Frank Larson ]
FrameMakers
PFG, Picture Framing God
Frank
I used to use plywood for the backing till a client calld me to fix a job we hung. It was in a bathroom and the plywood warped in the middle, pushing the mirror 3" out on the bottom.
As to the weight of the cleat, I find the size irrelevent. the weak point is always going to be the screws into the wall.
I used to use plywood for the backing till a client calld me to fix a job we hung. It was in a bathroom and the plywood warped in the middle, pushing the mirror 3" out on the bottom.
As to the weight of the cleat, I find the size irrelevent. the weak point is always going to be the screws into the wall.