3M vhb tape questions

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adjframes

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Hi all,

I'm going to be floating a couple of prints mounted on aluminum in the same frame and am looking into using 3M vhb tape.

My plan is to have a coroplast backing taped to a coroplast floater cut an inch less than the aluminum (which is taped to the aluminum, and white mat behind the photos cut around the coroplast floats.

questions:

1. does this seems like a reasonable solution to have a white mat behind the floated images? Is the tape going to hold both between the aluminum/coroplast and the coro/coro?

2. what kind of VHB should I get, there seem to be about 30 options (http://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes).

3. where do you get this besides ULINE (I'd like to get some this week)?

4. it seems like it's going to be tricky to place the tape in the exact right spot, seems like I only get one shot at it. Any hints?

thanks!
Alex
 
The first rule of sticky things is that sooner or later the sticky will fail. Floating the aluminum plate will look cool, but you need to figure out a physical way to accomplish that, so that it won't fall down to the bottom of the frame in 5 years and you have to engineer it again, only this time on your dime.

It's early. Lemme think on it, or better yet, wait to see what the rest of the monkey troop comes up with....
 
Coroplast is polypropylene. From Wikipedia:

"Many objects are made with polypropylene precisely because it is resilient and resistant to most solvents and glues. Also, there are very few glues available specifically for gluing PP. However, solid PP objects not subject to undue flexing can be satisfactorily joined with a two part epoxy glue or using hot-glue guns. Preparation is important and it is often helpful to roughen the surface with a file, emery paper or other abrasive material to provide better anchorage for the glue. Also it is recommended to clean with mineral spirits or similar alcohol prior to gluing to remove any oils or other contamination. Some experimentation may be required. There are also some industrial glues available for PP, but these can be difficult to find, especially in a retail store."

The article used to mention pressure-sensitive adhesives (i.e. tape) as being successful, but I see that's gone now.

Perhaps you want something other than coroplast. 8-ply board, maybe?
 
VHB tape is wonderful stuff but it must be used to join appropriate substrates. The design you suggest is prone to failure as there are too many taped parts of dissimilar materials.

Ellen, I would not be worried about properly attached parts failing as VHB is used to attach truck bodies together! But I agree that this design is trouble looking for a place to happen.

The difficulty lies in joining dissimilar surfaces, especially to one that is friable (such as rag board). VHB does not like to be attached to paper/cotton products. I think one would have better success with joining the aluminum to acrylic, or to another smaller piece of aluminum that is attached using an alternate adhesive such as epoxy or silicone. Even so, I would probably drill small holes in the acrylic or aluminum backing (not the art) and "sew" it to the rag/backing (in addition to adhesive) to secure it.

VHB is very unforgiving and it would be very difficult to remove the art once attached. If so, what would prevent you from using (gasp) silicone instead of the VHB?

Alternatively, you could glue small Standoffs to the back of the aluminum using epoxy and then mechanically fastening the aluminum plates through the back of the mat and backing with a screw and fender washer. This way the art could be removed from the framing.

Shameless plug: My new class, "Displaying Art Using Gallery Rods, Cable Systems, and Standoffs" will be taught at the WCAF Expo. We will cover doing exactly what you are describing!
 
The difficulty lies in joining dissimilar surfaces, especially to one that is friable (such as rag board).
Click to expand...

Rob, I'm not planning to attach anything to the mat board, it plan to cut around the coroplast floater. I figured that taping to the mat would not be as strong.

VHB is very unforgiving and it would be very difficult to remove the art once attached. If so, what would prevent you from using (gasp) silicone instead of the VHB?
Click to expand...

Off-gassing?


which vhb tape do people buy and from where?
Thanks
 
I have an industrial supplier who fortunately supplies me with "sample" rolls (36"). You may find one in your area under industrial suppliers - or have 3M sample you some directly for "evaluation". There is no, "one size fits all" - you have to match the tape type, adhesive thickness and substrate (foam or solid adhesive) to what is being bonded.

You also have to have enough sheer area to support the weight of what you are bonding (determined by width and length of tape. A few squares in the corner will usually not be sufficient.

Have you looked at the prices of VHB from U-line or others?

Since Coroplast is polypropylene and not a "smooth" surface, you will need a foam type tape that has an appropriate adhesive for plastics and metal. I think you are looking at at least $65 per roll, and more like $120+

I sure would consider silicone and allow for ample curing time. Funny that you are willing to permanently adhere a piece of artwork but are also concerned with "outgassing"?

Sort of like which is more Kosher, a cheeseburger or pasta with shrimp? :) If you are permanently adhering a piece of artwork, why be concerned with silicone? Do you think the VHB will not outgas?
 
I get VHB from RH Hughes. They are a big supplier of 3M products and cheaper than ULine. The stuff is expensive no matter what tough. I use different types depending on the job. When I mount a 40 x 60 aluminum panel to a wood strainer I use the 3/4" thicker stuff. (Can't remember the mil.) Usually white. The thinner one is good to attach spacers to welded aluminum frames etc. With the fluting of coroplast the squishier tape might be the way to go.
 
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