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| The Grumble The Original BBS for picture framers, open to all with questions and interest in the picture framing industry. Retail, Homebased, Newbies, Suppliers, just interested in learning, everyone's welcome. Lets us know what you like or problems that you are having in picture framing today. You're not alone any more, come join the fun. |
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#1 |
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Grumbler
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 21
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Hi All!
I have a high-end client that has started collecting fashion photography. Long story here, but basically we have gone back and forth trying to find a wood profile in silver that she likes and am now being asked to find another profile for pieces we already framed. She has mentioned metal and wants a "gallery" look for one wall of all the same moulding/mats on B&W photography. We are using Optium and high quality materials on all. My impression is that metal is not "safe" enough long term for expensive pieces (we're currently in the $3K+ per piece range here). As I feel a liability here, just wondering what the consensus is on metal? Most of these have been in the 16x20 size range, but we just completed a Leibowitz that was 40x35 matted so there may be larger pieces down the line. We did use an 8ply on that piece as a backing as well as a window mat for stability. What are your thoughts on metal for high end photography? |
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#2 |
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PFG Picture Framing God
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 6,616
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The Nielsen Elements line would probably look great on black & white photography. Unlike wood, a metal frame is not going to leach acids or lignins into the photography.
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#3 |
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SPFG Supreme Picture Framer God
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Buffalo, New York, USA/Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 14,611
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Metal (aluminum, presumably) frames are inert, and therefore great for archival preservation of the photograph. Nielsen has an incredible range of profiles and Looks - and most are strong enough for the largest application. I use a lot of Nielsen frames, the Vivids, the Elements, the 117 profile - my customers LOVE them and with all of the variety of anodized colors available - they can look great on just about anything - especially of a modern nature.
__________________
"There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." WilliamShakespeare http://www.tiltingatwoodpeckers.blogspot.com/ |
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#4 |
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In Time Out
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Posts: 6,571
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Aluminum meets the highest conservation standards. $3,000 is not by any means high end in price range. Be sure you are using unbuffered mats or you are creating more problems than you are solving by using "Archival" matting.
__________________
Art & Frame Outlet 206 George Bishop Pkwy (Across from the Hard Rock Park) Myrtle Beach, SC 29579 (843) 236-4370 |
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#5 |
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SPFG Supreme Picture Framer God
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland.
Posts: 15,814
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Other than that they leach atmospher in the corners and back, nothing is wrong with them. By definition they fully meet and exceed F. A. C. T. S. standards.
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#6 |
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SPFG Supreme Picture Framer God
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Buffalo, New York, USA/Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 14,611
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So make a sandwich and tape the edges.....
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__________________
"There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." WilliamShakespeare http://www.tiltingatwoodpeckers.blogspot.com/ |
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#7 |
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SGF Supreme Grumble Framer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,849
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Do these photos warrant unbuffered mats? Are these vintage? what chemicals react with buffered mats?
Im no scientist, but if it were up to me, I'd choose metal in a heartbeat. $3000 dollars for a photo, is extremely fine art around here. ![]()
__________________
"CHIEF ASSISTANT TO THE ASSISTANT CHIEF" |
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#8 | |
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SGF Supreme Grumble Framer
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,559
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Quote:
The same as for any other type of art. If it looks good for the art, the customer is happy and you're going to make money, then it's a perfectly valid choice. For better preservation, don't use spring clips. Use extra layers of board to fill up the back without filling it in too tightly and then use frame sealing tape on the back.
__________________
Proudly affiliated with: Franchise Concepts, Inc. the franchisor of Deck the Walls, Framing & Art Centre and The Great Frame Up; DECOR Magazine , PPFA and TruVue. |
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#9 |
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True Grumbler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: WI
Posts: 62
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I think you would be fine. Sounds like she's bringing in some really neat stuff!
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#10 |
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MGF Master Grumble Framer
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 648
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Do you mean "safe" as the bottom of the frame will spring open and drop the art? It has happened, and with a friend's 32 x 40 pastels with glass (pastelists hate plex). One possibility is to add one of the solid "d-ring" dealies near each corner (8 per frame) and kind of safety wire adjacent sections together in case an "L" corner connector messes up. Or more simply make a big cross on the back with four of them.
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