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Thread: Attaching Canvas to Floater Frame?

  1. #1
    MGF Master Grumble Framer Sister's Avatar
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    Question

    The moulding is a floater frame by Roma and the canvas is on regular depth stretcher bars. The moulding has two options for fitting, and the customer wanted the canvas to fit snugly to the inside of the frame (no lip remember). This left about a 1/2" gap between the back of the canvas and the moulding.

    I'm not usually a fan of floater frames, but this one looks great. My dilema is . . . how do I attach the canvas and the moulding. The canvas is a very snug fit, but I want to secure it.

    On other floaters I have used screw eyes attached to the frame and then a screw through to the stretcher bar. It would take a 1" long screw to use that method here. If I have made my description clear, you will understand that offset clips and mending plates do not apply here. Is it OK to use velcro? [img]graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
    I am defeated, and know it, if I meet any human being from whom I find myself unable to learn anything.
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    SGF Supreme Grumble Framer preservator's Avatar
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    Carefully placed screws are the usual solution to
    this problem, but great care must be taken to
    ensure that the screws are of the proper length.
    The Velcro is an interesting idea, but it would
    only work if it were stapled to the back of the
    stretcher bars. The question to ask is how it
    could be released, in the future.

    Hugh
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  • #3
    MGF Master Grumble Framer Sister's Avatar
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    Originally posted by preservator:
    Carefully placed screws are the usual solution to this problem, but great care must be taken to ensure that the screws are of the proper length.
    Hugh
    Thanks, Hugh. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] That was my first consideration, but I always like a little support where there is uncertainty. I have never used velcro either ; that idea came up in a post when I did a search on previous threads.
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    SPFG Supreme Picture Framer God Baer Charlton's Avatar
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    This is the problem of a "Traditional" float frame that seems to have flooded onto the market as of late.

    There is seemingly no consideration for the fact that there are over 6 different depths or thicknesses of stretcher bars.

    The only solution that I see for you, would be to build up the return plate with some wood that you can screw the screw-eyes into (or use a Multi-Point from Fletcher) ....

    Or defeat the purpose of the expensive moulding by rip-sawing off the return so that it is out of your way, and place the screw-eyes or Multi point.

    Or use the Floater frame from Studio or Garrett.

    Velcro is great! For corner samples..... that fall off the wall..... and if your's aren't, please share with us which magical velcro you use.

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    MGF Master Grumble Framer Sister's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Baer Charlton:
    Multi-Point from Fletcher) ....

    Velcro is great! For corner samples..... that fall off the wall..... and if your's aren't, please share with us which magical velcro you use.
    Good point, Baer. I don't know whether it is the weather or what, but our samples are coming off the walls like jumping beans. The corners are pulling away from the velcro which stays on the wall and the corner goes to the floor.
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    SPFG Supreme Picture Framer God Rick Granick's Avatar
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    Don't depend on the adhesive alone to stay attached to the sample. Supplement it with a staple or two.
    Rick

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