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Question First time posting - please help!

Discussion in 'Picture Frame Design' started by Maryon Goodwin, Jan 18, 2016.

  1. Maryon Goodwin

    Maryon Goodwin Guest

    I have just obtained a Accurite Oval/Circular cutter and am not sure if I am missing a part because the blade/head of the cutter swivels around when trying to cut - the blade is not locked and swivels around continuously. I would love to find a manual which might help me understand the machine better?!! Can anyone help please? IMG_0254.JPG IMG_0249.JPG
  2. Rick Granick

    Rick Granick SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    Grumbler Larry Peterson maintains a PDF archive of equipment manuals. Not sure if he has that particular one. The link to the archive doesn't seem to be working, but you could send him an email or a private Conversation.
    :cool: Rick
    Maryon Goodwin likes this.
  3. Larry Peterson

    Larry Peterson PFG, Picture Framing God

  4. Rob Markoff

    Rob Markoff PFG, Picture Framing God

    That Accurite is a great machine!

    The blade HAS to swivel to start the cut. ALL oval/circle mat cutters (including CMC's) have to swivel into an arc.

    If you are cutting a mat and the fallout is sacrificial, the blade starts INSIDE the opening and swivels into the oval/circle arc. If you are cutting a backing (like something to fit into an oval/circle frame) the blade starts OUTSIDE the arc and swivels into the arc from the outside.

    Oval/circular mats are not cut in a single pass - even on a CMC there is a "beyond the starting point" finish. Start with the blade inside the opening and apply light pressure while turning the arm. The blade will swivel into the arc and as you continue applying pressure as the blade cuts through the mat. You may have to make 1-1/2 rotations (go beyond the point of entry) to completely cut through.

    With CMC's today there will be a whole generation that has no idea how to use a straight line mat cutter let alone an oval/circle cutter.
  5. neilframer

    neilframer PFG, Picture Framing God

    [QUOTE="Rob Markoff, post: 991786, member: 424"
    With CMC's today there will be a whole generation that has no idea how to use a straight line mat cutter let alone an oval/circle cutter.[/QUOTE]

    Ain't it the truth!
    Back in the 80's I used to go to Colorado Moulding when I worked in Denver to use their Oval cutter.
    They had one in their framing class area and they let me come in and use it for free. (I brought my own blades ;))

    We just got a brand new Wizard 9000 and I was really getting used to the 8000....
    (you CAN teach an old dog new tricks :p)
    1banjo and Maryon Goodwin like this.
  6. prospero

    prospero SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    My Keencut oval cutter (That I use about once every two years) does the same. You wouldn't think it would follow a true track but you have to trust it. :D
    Maryon Goodwin likes this.
  7. 1banjo

    1banjo Grumbler

    It looks to me like you have the blade in backwords!!
    And then would have to go the ofther direction with your cut
    Maryon Goodwin likes this.
  8. neilframer

    neilframer PFG, Picture Framing God

    Welcome to the Grumble, Maryon.
    I hope that you can use the Grumble to help you in your framing.
    Feel free to ask any questions.
  9. 1banjo

    1banjo Grumbler

    Hey I been looking & you need to be pulling the blade behind the pivoting shaft
    With the point of the blade to the back!
    It looks like you are pushing it in frount of the shaft
  10. prospero

    prospero SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God

    You need to practice on a few scraps to get the 'knack'. On the Keencut you need to press very lightly on the first orbit to establish the track. Then keep turning with slightly more pressure. It's hard to guess just when the cut is complete as variations in pressure and slight undulations in the bed will mean that some parts will be though while others are clinging on by a whisker. Important not to try and prize out the dropout prematurely. Better to make a few extra orbits than have a raggy edge. Occasionally you might get a slight bump where the blade joins the entry point on the first turn. A bit of very fine abrasive paper is good to rectify any small flaws.

    Having the board fixed down firmly is very important. I long since abandoned the crude clamps on the Keencut and tack the board down in each corner with masking tape. :D
  11. sandlot

    sandlot Grumbler

    Prospero gives good advice. best: tape-down. May I add....Your blade looks chipped. Always make sure you have a real sharp blade. If your platform is lined or whether you use a scrap slipsheet (taped down as above) you will get the readings on your cut-through. If your cutting deep into your platform liner or slipsheet, adjust your blade depth and when you get it perfect - just remember the setting and always put your knife blade there like that. (if you upgrade to 8 ply or 1/4 foam or what ever - adjust to that). Another thing would be to find out exactly where the best place is to start your stroke - on my (slightly different oval cutter) it is at about 11 o'clock (pressing lightly as above). By the time I get to 3 o'clock my blade is locked into pitch and online. My best tip. If your running short on the matt color for job...do a test oval with a different color mat - same brand is best. If your test oval comes out good - stash it because there is a good chance you can sell it later. After a few ovals - you will be a champ and can knock out ovals without error. (on a technical note: there may be a time when you will have a very very good oval with a slight flaw. Sometimes these can be fixed with a piece of clean 150 or maybe 120 grit no-fill sandpaper wrapped around a circular shape like a spray can) Keep your bevel angle just right. And as far as bevels go...sometimes the oval cutter has a slightly different angle that most matt cutters. Just in case you get to a point where you might do a cathedral top cut in conjunction with some steps and sides.

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